Help! Help needed in setting up EBMM JP6 Stealth

[gurtejsingh]

Hey Guys,

So I just bought the EBMM JP6 Stealth Black, and first off I must say that its a fantastic guitar!. I've had an Ibanez for years now, and I must say that this guitar is a completely new level for me. I've had the guitar for close to a month and I've spent a real good time setting it up (I'm an experienced guitar player, so I take extreme care while doing this) following various threads on this forum. I also gave it to GC for setup here in New Jersey and I wasn't too happy with the action that I got back. I've purchased this as a used item, but the guitar is brand new, so the guitar did not come very properly setup, and the action was not to my liking and was a little high for my playing style. I know that JP uses his action pretty low, so I'd like to come something close to that. I have some questions which I'd need some help with :

1. I've brought down the action by adjusting the saddles and also tweaking the truss rod a bit as advised by various people on this forum. Right now the relief in the neck is kinda good, and I can still tap (a little only IMO) the strings on the 7th fret (pressing on the first fret and the 15th fret). The bridge is perfectly aligned to the body. However, If I straighten the neck a bit more, I lose the relief in the neck (almost no room to tap on the 7th fret while holding 1st and 15th fret), and I feel quite a bit of hand strain while doing bends specially on the 2nd and the first string, and the strings feel a bit tight while doing full/1.5 note bends on these strings. Is this normal? I do not know what gauge the strings are, but I am guessing these are 9's. Can I bring down the action more without hurting my hands? Do you think the action is right compared to JP's? Don't have any measuring tools.

2. I read the EBMM website about how to setup the guitar, and I read this line "Make sure that the string is coming off of the saddle straight and not at an arch". What does that mean? Do my strings look right, please see the attached pics. I do see some arch in some of the strings, but If I lower the string using the small nuts next to each string, it starts to buzz quite a lot. Do I raise the bridge then?

3. Regarding the buzz on the guitar. I understand that lower action does mean some buzz on the strings, however, it is comfortable to play in while in distortion. However, the distortion sounds a little fuzzy (specially when I do some slides, and string skips) when the string action is low, and pinch harmonics are kinda tough. Unfortunately I don't have an amp right now (I've relocated), and I plug into Guitar Rig 5 and play (is this due to guitar rig's emulation?). On higher action, the fuzziness is gone. Is this normal? Do you guys feel a similar buzz/fuzz when playing? Also, the buzz seems a little more on the first string around the 7th fret, more like a bit of sitar when played acoustic.

4. The action on the guitar keeps going higher towards the higher frets, and I wanted to ask if this is normal? or should it be aligned to what it is on the 12th fret? please see the pics and let me know.

What do you think guys? Should I call EBMM CS or take it to GC again and specify the things I want? In all, I would love to get to a lower action (probably as low as JP!), but I have issues doing bends then as the strings go quite tight.

All in all, fantastic guitar but I have only a few days to return it in case I don't feel good about it. Is there anywhere else in NJ where I can get expert help? Any EBMM help available here?

Please do help me out. I appreciate you taking out time to read my super long first post!. Thank you so much!

Regards,
gT

 

[t_rod]

From the pics its hard to tell but it looks like the bridge may be a little low. Can you take pics of the back of the trem to see how it aligns? that may cause a higher break angle over the saddles and give you some problems.

 

[gurtejsingh]

From the pics its hard to tell but it looks like the bridge may be a little low. Can you take pics of the back of the trem to see how it aligns? that may cause a higher break angle over the saddles and give you some problems.

Thanks man for the reply!. While I will put pictures of the back of the trem soon (I'm outside), from what I know the bridge sits perfectly straight to the body (I might be wrong or maybe a little low), do you mean that the back part should be up a little? Which means I would need to loosen the springs a bit?

What would you think about the other parts to my post? Do the pics look ok? What should be my course of action?

Again, thanks for the reply!

 

[t_rod]

Your best bet is to call EBMM customer service to be honest, but Ill add my 2 cents FWIW.

I always set up my own jp after each string change but Im no expert, although i think it plays better since I've learned to tweak it. If your tremplate is perfectly level and you have such high action on the higher frets I would try lowering the saddles a tad to have the strings running parallel with the fret board. Then add some neck relief to eliminate any buzzing. Just make sure to tune it, set the intonation, and adjust the trem claw accordingly after every adjustment.

I attached a couple pics of mine for comparison. It plays amazing!

 

[gurtejsingh]

Your best bet is to call EBMM customer service to be honest, but Ill add my 2 cents FWIW.

I always set up my own jp after each string change but Im no expert, although i think it plays better since I've learned to tweak it. If your tremplate is perfectly level and you have such high action on the higher frets I would try lowering the saddles a tad to have the strings running parallel with the fret board. Then add some neck relief to eliminate any buzzing. Just make sure to tune it, set the intonation, and adjust the trem claw accordingly after every adjustment.

Hey thanks again buddy. This is awesome help so far. I will call up EBMM as you recommended. BTW, I just got home and clicked some pics of the bridge. Please find attached. Yes, I feel that the bridge is pretty much aligned to the body and pretty flush. So you mean that I should lower the individual string height, or the entire bridge height?. In the case of the former, how do you recommend I maintain the radius of the fretboard?

Again, this is awesome help!. Thank you. Could you please invite other pro's here to have a look please, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[gurtejsingh]

Also, Just saw your pics! Thanks a lot. So you have your strings pretty much parallel to the fretboard? And do you have any buzz while playing acoustic? What's your action height?

 

[t_rod]

If it were me, I would start by straitening the neck completely flat. Then lowering each saddle (in small adjustments) to get the strings parallel to the fretboard (which should also minimize break angle over the saddles) while also maintaining the radius. Once there, see where the buzz is coming from and add neck relief accordingly. Patience and careful observation will get you there!

 

[t_rod]

I have a little buzzing here and there, its just inherent when the action is so low. However, its only there when not plugged and isn't noticeable when playing through the piezo on a clean channel, or distortion obviously. One thing it has taught me is to pay more attention to fretting immediately behind the fret and pressing with more pressure (keeping a straight wrist). If I get buzzing its usually because I failed to do one of the aforementioned things.
Ive never actually measure the height tbh, just go by what feels and sounds right to me.

 

[Blue1412]

I've had luck raising the action at the saddles and putting less relief in the neck. JP's have a pretty flat neck radius, so bends are a little easier. Just my opinion.

 

[gurtejsingh]

I have a little buzzing here and there, its just inherent when the action is so low. However, its only there when not plugged and isn't noticeable when playing through the piezo on a clean channel, or distortion obviously. One thing it has taught me is to pay more attention to fretting immediately behind the fret and pressing with more pressure (keeping a straight wrist). If I get buzzing its usually because I failed to do one of the aforementioned things.
Ive never actually measure the height tbh, just go by what feels and sounds right to me.

Hey man, I've tried a lot to make things work. First of all, the trem plate is now completely aligned to the body and I got the strings parallel to the fretboard via the saddles as you recommended. Did introduce some more buzzing, but overall it helped in the action. However, I havent been able to solve the bending issue. Somehow the strings feel too tight still. Specifically the B and high E. 1/2 notes are very easy, full notes require a bit of a stretch and 1.5 notes require quite a bit of effort. I don't think it should be this way. Could it be due to the trem springs? I removed the back plate and checked the springs and they are parallel, and not an inverted V (Is it possible on this guitar?). Is that how its supposed to be? Can having an inverted V shape of the springs help in the bends? I hope that does not spoil my trem capability.

Another thing I have noticed is that since the time straightened my neck, I've been trying to add relief, and now my truss nut has been completely loose (you can rotate it with your hands), and its clear that its not adding any more relief at all, and the action remains the same. Do I need to give it some hours/days before it settles in? I've heard people here having similar issues.

I did call up EBMM CS and they told that its impossible to tell anything without having the guitar in their hands, which I feel is fair, but I am not in a position to ship this right now. So I will take it again to GC tomorrow based on your recommendations, and perhaps even get a pair of new 9's for this.

Thoughts? Thanks a lot! Help!

 

[gurtejsingh]

I've had luck raising the action at the saddles and putting less relief in the neck. JP's have a pretty flat neck radius, so bends are a little easier. Just my opinion.

Hey buddy, thanks for your time on the reply. So less relief = anti clockwise rotation right? Currently my problem is that the nut is all loose and I cant see any effect of it being turned. And the other thing is, raising the action at the saddles causes the action to increase towards the 24th fret right? Does that counter with the lesser relief you are talking about?

 

[t_rod]

Try the springs in V formation and see how it feels.
Clockwise straightens the neck and counter-clockwise adds relief. Where on the fretboard are you getting buzz?

 

[gurtejsingh]

Try the springs in V formation and see how it feels.
Clockwise straightens the neck and counter-clockwise adds relief. Where on the fretboard are you getting buzz?

Hey thanks man. I will probably have the tech try out the V shape springs, do you know if that has any affect on the great tremolo that this guitar has? and by default is it in a V shape when shipped?. Mine is a second hand so I dont know what the previous player tweaked.

Do you have any idea about the loose truss nut? I left the truss nut loose for a few hours and I think the fretboard takes a bit of time to adjust, and it feels a tad better now, although the truss nut is still a bit loose. My buzz was mainly above the 7th fret or so, which does indicate that i probably need a straighter board, but then again that introduces the bending issue as the strings go tighter. Could it be that perhaps my hands are tired? I've been playing daily since I got this rig.

Also I'm not sure if this has 10's on, I'd probably get a pair of 9's and try them out?

Overall, the more I play this, the more I fall in love with it. Its a fantastic guitar and I would hate to return it just because I cant get the action/bends right. With your help, I think I can get there. Cheers.

 

[Tollywood]

Currently my problem is that the nut is all loose and I cant see any effect of it being turned.

Hello and welcome to the forum. If the wheel spins freely with your fingertip, your truss rod may be frozen. You should call ebmm customer service to describe the loose wheel to them and they will advise on how to correct it. Their number is 866-823-2255

 

[t_rod]

^^^ for the truss rod issue.
Did you mix up the rotations by mistake? Turning it clockwise will straighten it more, you need to go counter clockwise to add relief (fore bow). I usually apply a little pressure first to see if that adds enough relief.

My jp12 was shipped new with 2 springs in a V. I ended up adding a third in the middle and putting the two outer ones like a V also. Its a little tighter but I prefer it this way and the trem is still working perfectly.

 

[gurtejsingh]

Thanks @Tollie! I'll call them tomorrow yet again. I did call today but had not faced the issue prior to the call. Just curious, is it common to have this thing due to weather perhaps? Mine was shipped from Michigan and the strings were all loose when I received it. I just want to know the severity of the problem.

@T_rod I've been careful with the truss rod adjustments and did not mix up things. I know that clockwise decreases relief and vice versa to add more. But thanks for pointing out, I've know that as a common confusion amongst people. How do you apply pressure?. Mine has 3 strings setup parallel. Is the V shape going to help in the string tension? And can you please post steps if any for me to change them, and perhaps what tools I would need. A pic would be great buddy if you can, if its not too much trouble for you..

Cheers guys! You the best

 

[gurtejsingh]

Ok guys, I finally figured this out. I called CS and they informed me that my model is of 2011 and all of them were shipped with 10's on them, so the problem was the string gauge I think. I got a new pair of hybrid slinky's and changed the strings yesterday night, and it feels much better now. The bends are easy and playability is much improved overall.

Only thing which I could not solve yet is the stuck truss rod issue. CS told me to apply a little pressure to hear a pop sort of sound until the truss rod settles again. But I've tried and it does not seem to help much, and I am scared to damage things by applying too much pressure. Any other tricks that you guys know of to release a stuck truss rod?

Again, big ups to EBMM for making such a fantastic instrument, and you guys for helping me out!

 

[Blue1412]

Hey buddy, thanks for your time on the reply. So less relief = anti clockwise rotation right? Currently my problem is that the nut is all loose and I cant see any effect of it being turned. And the other thing is, raising the action at the saddles causes the action to increase towards the 24th fret right? Does that counter with the lesser relief you are talking about?

Turn the truss rod to the right to straighten out the neck, that should help lower the action

 

[t_rod]

I added the spring in the middle, it came with the other two in the same formation. To take them off I first block the trem ( I use a stack of credit cards wrapped in electrical tape). Blocking the trem keeps the springs under tension though, but Im afraid to just let it rest against the wood. Does anyone have another suggestion for this?
Anyway, then detune and unhook the two outer springs. To put them back on I choke down on an allen wrench and hook the spring then pull it to the holes on the block. Once there on the holes i slide the wrench out and tap the spring all the way in the hole.

Im sure there are better ways to do this LOL feel free if anyone has any comments ^^

 

[Live2Rock]

As good as this guitar is, It's a pain in the f****** a** for gods sake to set up. The guitar comes with no instructions, nothing to adjust the truss rod with, and overall calling EBMM is no help. Just WTF was EBMM thinking you know? Good thing people on this site can help.