Help w/ saddle height

[x-ray]

Howdie everyone. It's Friiidayy!!! I get to work on my Sterling!!!

I need some help here. I'm still getting to know my Sterling, and have come to the conclusion that the previous owner lowered the saddles a bit too much for my taste. He was a tapper/slapper w/ a light touch, I'm a finger picker w/ a heavier attack.

I've made the appropriate adjustments w/ the truss rod, but action is still too low for my taste. I kind of want to get the bridge/saddle height back to 'factory' settings. Problem is, I don't have a very good measuring stick or tape (I have the crappy metal roll out that is very hard to see accurately when dealing w/ 1/32nd's of inches).

With that in mind, I have a very pain in the arse question/request of you guys. If someone has this already, can you please post or point me towards a picture of a bridge showing the saddle heights at or near the factory recommended height? My suspicion regarding it's current level is that the G saddle is dead flat, and the others progressively, but not much higher. Too low, no?

If there are no pix available (and this may be faster & easier to do), can you count the # of threads of each screw that is exposed & visible below the saddle. For example, on mine, here's the tally (from south to north):

G string saddle - 1st screw: 0 threads; 2nd screw: 0 threads (thus dead flat)
D string saddle - 1st screw: 0 threads; 2nd screw: 1 thread
A string saddle - 1st screw: 0 threads; 2nd screw: 3 threads
E string saddle - 1st screw: 0 threads; 2nd screw: 2 threads

Finally, what size Allen wrench do I need? My smallest - 5/64" - is too fat!!!

Thanks in advanced y'all. Commence the partying!!!!

 

[mynan]

I think you are going to have a problem using this logic. The height of the bridge saddles is a means to an end, not the end itself. It will vary from one bass to another.

I don't know where you are located, but a trip to Home Depot will get you a decent steel rule for less than $5.

 

[Mongo]

Problem is, I don't have a very good measuring stick or tape (I have the crappy metal roll out that is very hard to see accurately when dealing w/ 1/32nd's of inches).

If you want to do setups "by the numbers" rather than by feel, I'd say you should invest a few bucks in a steel 6 inch machinist's rule that measures in 64ths of an inch. They sell them at the big box hardware stores around here.

For my touch I've found good place to start (all measurements in inches at the 12th fret) are E: 3/32, A: 5/64, D: 5/64, G: 1/16. I then adjust from there by feel/playing.

I adjust relief so there is I'd guess about 1/64 (I just eyeball it) at the 7th or 8th fret when fretting the E string at the first and 15th fret.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

x-ray.

As the others have said, get a 6" steel rule from your hardware store. They only cost a few Dollars. It's worth it and you'll wonder how you've got by without one in the past.

The saddle heights are going to be different on each instrument.

Use your steel rule and measure the distance between the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of all the strings. Factory setup is 3/32 inches so adjust them to that distance as a starter. You can experiment from there if you wish.

Adjust the saddles while seated with the Bass on your lap so it's in the play position. Otherwise gravity comes into the equation during adjustment.

 

[x-ray]

Thanks guys.

I love going to Home Depot early on Saturdays (I'm serious!). Need to get a thinner hex/allen wrench anyways. My only comment regarding eyeballing the saddle height is that a completely flat saddle seemed too low, and that I'm already maxed out w/ the relief (don't like too much forward bow). But you're right, I shouldn't be eyeballing all this. I will probably take it for a pro set up in a few weeks anyways, I just wanted to try to figure it out myself first...