i would set the saddles to match the fingerboard radius. I set my action by measuring at the last fret and set all the strings to the same height. 4/64 with a straight neck usually works best for me.
Yep, I pretty much do the same thing, though I measure at the 12th fret with a capo at the first fret to eliminate the nut height. Usually ~3/64ths does it for me with the neck straight. Lower or higher depending on how much buzz I can live with.
Yep, I pretty much do the same thing, though I measure at the 12th fret with a capo at the first fret to eliminate the nut height. Usually ~3/64ths does it for me with the neck straight. Lower or higher depending on how much buzz I can live with.
Pretty much exactly what I do. 3/64ths on the treble strings, maybe 4/64ths on the bass strings, measured at the 12th fret with string fretted at 1st fret. Once this is done, usually just a tweak of the truss rod from season to season.
For "perfect - pristine" action use saddle shims (due to the fact that the neck radius is never a perfect match with the bridge on ANY guitar, even though EBMM is dead on for production guitars! I do quite a bit of tech work and that is "the" professional set-up. However, you need to meet other criteria first.
Steps: straighten out the TR, shim the neck pocket for the perfect angle to the bridge, set the bridge to "level" just a micro below where you want the action on the "center" strings, and lastly (the icing on the cake) shim the individual saddles. Wala - perfect action!
Keep in mind a FR original is 10" radius and look at the variety of guitars that is on!!!