Question How to tune up to standard tuning from lower tuning?

[JJBC]

Hello everyone

Here comes a "dumb" question that I have struggled with.

I have EBMM Majesty but I guess it is the same for every guitar with floating bridge.

When I tune down from standard tuning to D or C what I do is I put a piece of cardboard under the bridge to prevent the bridge from sinking and I tune in the nut. When the guitar is tuned I remove the cardboard piece, suddenly is the guitar out of tune and the bridge is not parallel to the body of the guitar anymore, I solve this by tuning again but this time by turning the screws on the backside of the guitar. By doing this the guitar is now tuned and the bridge is parallel to the body of the guitar, all good.

My problem now is to go to standard tuning again, I have tried to do it by just tuning in the nut but the bridge is too high and not even close to being parallel to the body of the guitar. What I think I'm missing is the control over the bridge, which I have when tuning down by just adding the cardboard piece under the bridge. When tuning up I would need something that prevents the bridge from rising too much. What can I do?

Thank you beforehand!

 

[johnnyboogie]

It depends on whether you use the same string gauge or not. You'll also need to adjust the springs. So, what gauge do you use on E-standard tuning and what gauge on your lower tunings?

 

[JJBC]

It depends on whether you use the same string gauge or not. You'll also need to adjust the springs. So, what gauge do you use on E-standard tuning and what gauge on your lower tunings?

Hi!

The gauge of the strings is 10 mm (high E), I don't change the strings when tuning down so it is the same gauge

 

[jones4tone]

You could lock the trem block inside the cavity when tuning up. But it sounds like you just need two Majesties.

 

[JJBC]

You could lock the trem block inside the cavity when tuning up. But it sounds like you just need two Majesties.

Haha well I actually have 2 Majesties lol... One I keep in standard and the other one is supposed to vary in tuning. How do I lock the term block inside the cavity?

 

[johnnyboogie]

Ok. It's pretty easy then. What you need to do in order to go back to E standard tuning and keep the bridge leveled is tighten the springs. The amount of tension of E tuning is higher than that of the D or C tuning. That's why the bridge elevates. By tightening the springs you'll equalize the tension.

 

[JJBC]

Ok. It's pretty easy then. What you need to do in order to go back to E standard tuning and keep the bridge leveled is tighten the springs. The amount of tension of E tuning is higher than that of the D or C tuning. That's why the bridge elevates. By tightening the springs you'll equalize the tension.

Hi again.

So the guitar is in D tuning now. Do you say that I should start by tightening the springs? I could tighten the springs until E standard but that will make that the bridge sinks into the body of the guitar so the guitar would be in E standard but the bridge wouldn't be parallel.

If I tighten the springs to E standard and then tune in the nut to level the bridge that's going to affect the tuning and probably I won't get standard tuning with leveled bridge. Same thing if I start by tuning in the nut and then try to level the bridge by making the springs loose.

 

[johnnyboogie]

Hi again.

So the guitar is in D tuning now. Do you say that I should start by tightening the springs? I could tighten the springs until E standard but that will make that the bridge sinks into the body of the guitar so the guitar would be in E standard but the bridge wouldn't be parallel.

If I tighten the springs to E standard and then tune in the nut to level the bridge that's going to affect the tuning and probably I won't get standard tuning with leveled bridge. Same thing if I start by tuning in the nut and then try to level the bridge by making the springs loose.

That's right. That's not the correct way to do it.

What you need to do is tune in the nut and tighten the springs at the same time. First in the nut, then the springs and keep repeating that process.

Tune in the nut to D#. That will elevate the bridge. Then tighten the springs. That will bring the bridge back down. And so on. It's an empirical process. You may not need to tune to D#, I just used D# as a figure of speech.

Tune in the nut, tighten the springs and repeat. That's the process.

 

[JJBC]

That's right. That's not the correct way to do it.

What you need to do is tune in the nut and tighten the springs at the same time. First in the nut, then the springs and keep repeating that process.

Tune in the nut to D#. That will elevate the bridge. Then tighten the springs. That will bring the bridge back down. And so on. It's an empirical process. You may not need to tune to D#, I just used D# as a figure of speech.

Tune in the nut, tighten the springs and repeat. That's the process.

Thank you!

 

[johnnyboogie]

Thank you!

Anytime!! Let me know how it went.

 

[tekwerk]

Guys,
Let's make this easier than what you have stated. De-tune the guitar a bit and then turn the screws on the trem claw to tighten. The way I gauge it is to insert the screw driver and rotate my wrist two to three times for each screw. Re-tune the guitar and see where the bridge is at in relation to the body. Keep repeating the process. As you get closer to the bridge being level, you will turn the screws less. When you get to the end it will be micro adjustments. It's always best to lower the string tension before adjusting. It is a tedious process, but once you get the hang of it you will be able to dial the guitar in very easy.
Maddi