Dizzy
Well-known member
Ok,
My JP is pre D-sonic, but came with a D-sonic installed with the blade to bridge.
I'm reversing it back to normal.
I've found out there's a lot more to it than just spinning it around :
(This also applies to anyone going from Steves Special to D-Sonic)
1 : I had to lengthen the PUP lead
2 : The wiring is completely different if you want the inner coil active when split :
* The red wire from the pickup is soldered to the white solder pad on the PC board.
* The black pickup wire is soldered to green on the PC.
* The green pickup wire is soldered to black on the PC.
* The white pickup wire is soldered to red on the PC.
3 : The wiring on the neck PUP also needs to be changed to match the D-sonic to maintain hum cancelling in the split position.
4 : The neck PUP also needs to be flipped to have the inner coil active when split.
My question is (for those who have done it) - how many of you bothered to flip the neck PUP ?? Did you notice any difference ??
I've already decided not to flip it, (i.e the outer coild on the neck PUP is active in the split position).
I reckoned tonal changes on that part of the string are much less than at the bridge, so won't really matter.
I also couldn't be a$$ed to lengthen the neck PUP lead too.
It's all neatly done and working.
I'm just about to lemon oil the board while 5 of the strings are off.
I figured that I'd drop this question before I whack the strings back on - just in case someone had a good bit of advice as to why I should flip the neck PUP too.
Thanks
Oh, if anyone's thinking about changing to a D-sonic, you can save yourself alot of time if you like having the blade to the bridge : the wiring stays the same.
.
My JP is pre D-sonic, but came with a D-sonic installed with the blade to bridge.
I'm reversing it back to normal.
I've found out there's a lot more to it than just spinning it around :
(This also applies to anyone going from Steves Special to D-Sonic)
1 : I had to lengthen the PUP lead
2 : The wiring is completely different if you want the inner coil active when split :
* The red wire from the pickup is soldered to the white solder pad on the PC board.
* The black pickup wire is soldered to green on the PC.
* The green pickup wire is soldered to black on the PC.
* The white pickup wire is soldered to red on the PC.
3 : The wiring on the neck PUP also needs to be changed to match the D-sonic to maintain hum cancelling in the split position.
4 : The neck PUP also needs to be flipped to have the inner coil active when split.
My question is (for those who have done it) - how many of you bothered to flip the neck PUP ?? Did you notice any difference ??
I've already decided not to flip it, (i.e the outer coild on the neck PUP is active in the split position).
I reckoned tonal changes on that part of the string are much less than at the bridge, so won't really matter.
I also couldn't be a$$ed to lengthen the neck PUP lead too.
It's all neatly done and working.
I'm just about to lemon oil the board while 5 of the strings are off.
I figured that I'd drop this question before I whack the strings back on - just in case someone had a good bit of advice as to why I should flip the neck PUP too.
Thanks
Oh, if anyone's thinking about changing to a D-sonic, you can save yourself alot of time if you like having the blade to the bridge : the wiring stays the same.
.
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