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Morbid

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Jul 27, 2005
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133
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Hey folks. Looking for some advice, if ya don't mind. I've been having horrible tuning issues with my Ernie Ball JP6 for a while now. It's one of the originals with the prototype pickups.
The action is wonderful, the bridge is pretty level (although not absolutely perfect), the neck is relatively flat, and I've used nut lube on the nut and saddles. Still the issue persists.
I'd thought it must be a setup issue that I'm overlooking, but as I was redoing things tonight from scratch, I noticed that the clear coat on the fretboard just past the nut was worn through a little on the Low E. I thought it was just a coincidence until I finished cleaning and restringing it. That's when I realized that the low E is actually RESTING on that part of the board. I can wedge a piece of paper between the string and board, but not without a little effort, whereas there is no friction or resistance when doing this with any of the other strings.

I'm now wondering if THIS is the reason for my tuning instability, as I'm constantly retuning, even without using the tremolo. Sharp, flat, you name it.
That said, I've now taken notice of the fact that if a string is sharp and I barely turn the tuner to adjust it, the string will flatten as expected, very quickly. But on the Low E, it seems to take more of an adjustment before the string not only moves, but ends up moving TOO far, and goes from sharp to flat, like it's getting stuck.

Anyway, would you guys agree that this is likely my issue?
Is this a common issue with the original JP6 guitars by chance, or have I just worn through the nut in a weird way?
And am I right to assume that the only available option I have without having to raise the action of the strings, is to sand down that part of the board? Or should I intend on adding a little dab of super glue to the nut slot with it angles toward the headstock and build that up a bit?

Thanks in advance for the insight, friends!

string.jpg
 
Last edited:

DrKev

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That's a known issue on older guitars. It's like that on my 2005 Silhouette Special too. I don't recall the precise date they changed design of that area to ensure adequate clearance but it was sometime back in 2010-2012, maybe? However, despite that it never affected the tuning stability for my low-E string at all so I don't expect that to be the case for your guitar.

Looking at your photo the string is hardly even deviating at all, so there is really little current contact/friction there. This is an old guitar and over time the string has made its own appropriate slot there now. Rub a black pencil along the mark on the finish and it will add a little dry lubcrant but I don't expect that will improve things.

I do not recommend messing with raising the back of the string slot in the nut. It *should* slope backwards down towards the tuning peg, which improves tuning stability. You'll only make the tuning problem worse and may not significantly alleviate the amount of contact behind the nut.

You said: "But on the Low E, it seems to take more of an adjustment before the string not only moves, but ends up moving TOO far, and goes from sharp to flat, like it's getting stuck." On any brand of guitar on any string that's a common symptom and almost certainly an issue with the string binding in the nut (sometimes accompanied by a creak or pinging noise). If lubrication doesn't fix it, it's a sign that the slot is too narrow or in some way pinching the string. What gauge strings do you have on there? The original string slots in the nut were cut to accept 10-46 gauge strings. If you put something bigger on there without having the string slots widened, that need to be addressed.

First grab a small piece of 800 or 1200 grit sandpaper. Fold it a few times so it's just a little smaller than the width of string slot in the nut, and very gently wipe it through a few times just to clean the nut and smooth the bottom of the slot. Do not do any more than that. Do not try to widen or deepen the nut with sandpaper (only ever use nut files of the correct gauge). Put a piece of masking tape on the headstock behind the nut so you don't scratch up the finish. Make sure to roll downward toward the tuner as you exit.

If that doesn't help, I think the guitar should have a check up with a good luthier, paying close attention to the string slots for the gauge of strings you have.

Options for dealing with the hump...

1) Ignore it. I don't think it's causing your issue.
2) Use a small fine tooth file and fine 800+ grit folded papers where it touches the rosewood and slightly deepen the depression slot under the E-string for clearance. But it may not solve the tuning problem and may mess up the look of the guitar there.
3) Have a luthier reshape and refinish that ledge along the full with of the neck.
 

Morbid

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
133
Location
Daytona Beach, FL
That's a known issue on older guitars. It's like that on my 2005 Silhouette Special too. I don't recall the precise date they changed design of that area to ensure adequate clearance but it was sometime back in 2010-2012, maybe? However, despite that it never affected the tuning stability for my low-E string at all so I don't expect that to be the case for your guitar.

Looking at your photo the string is hardly even deviating at all, so there is really little current contact/friction there. This is an old guitar and over time the string has made its own appropriate slot there now. Rub a black pencil along the mark on the finish and it will add a little dry lubcrant but I don't expect that will improve things.

I do not recommend messing with raising the back of the string slot in the nut. It *should* slope backwards down towards the tuning peg, which improves tuning stability. You'll only make the tuning problem worse and may not significantly alleviate the amount of contact behind the nut.

You said: "But on the Low E, it seems to take more of an adjustment before the string not only moves, but ends up moving TOO far, and goes from sharp to flat, like it's getting stuck." On any brand of guitar on any string that's a common symptom and almost certainly an issue with the string binding in the nut (sometimes accompanied by a creak or pinging noise). If lubrication doesn't fix it, it's a sign that the slot is too narrow or in some way pinching the string. What gauge strings do you have on there? The original string slots in the nut were cut to accept 10-46 gauge strings. If you put something bigger on there without having the string slots widened, that need to be addressed.

First grab a small piece of 800 or 1200 grit sandpaper. Fold it a few times so it's just a little smaller than the width of string slot in the nut, and very gently wipe it through a few times just to clean the nut and smooth the bottom of the slot. Do not do any more than that. Do not try to widen or deepen the nut with sandpaper (only ever use nut files of the correct gauge). Put a piece of masking tape on the headstock behind the nut so you don't scratch up the finish. Make sure to roll downward toward the tuner as you exit.

If that doesn't help, I think the guitar should have a check up with a good luthier, paying close attention to the string slots for the gauge of strings you have.

Options for dealing with the hump...

1) Ignore it. I don't think it's causing your issue.
2) Use a small fine tooth file and fine 800+ grit folded papers where it touches the rosewood and slightly deepen the depression slot under the E-string for clearance. But it may not solve the tuning problem and may mess up the look of the guitar there.
3) Have a luthier reshape and refinish that ledge along the full with of the neck.
Hey Doc. Thanks for the response, and the information!
I use 9 - 42 in Standard on this guitar. Even still, prior to making this thread, I actually DID lightly brush up the slot with some sandpaper before cleaning it out again, lubing it up and restringing, so it's starting to sound like a trip to the luthier is my only option. :(
 

ohbugger

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Nov 16, 2014
Messages
124
I noticed that exact thing on some of my old JPs.

Take my advice with a grain of salt... and only if you've got a steady hand... but I took a dremel to the edge of the fretboard above the nut, where the string was rubbing. Just enough to make a little divot underneath the path of the string!
 

Morbid

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Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
133
Location
Daytona Beach, FL
I noticed that exact thing on some of my old JPs.

Take my advice with a grain of salt... and only if you've got a steady hand... but I took a dremel to the edge of the fretboard above the nut, where the string was rubbing. Just enough to make a little divot underneath the path of the string!
And I'm assuming this solved your issue? That would be wonderful news if so
 

ohbugger

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Joined
Nov 16, 2014
Messages
124
And I'm assuming this solved your issue? That would be wonderful news if so
It helped for sure, since it was a spot where the strings were binding. That along with making sure the nut slots were smooth, and sometimes lubricated or coated with a little graphite, made most of my JPs pretty stable.
 

Morbid

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Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
133
Location
Daytona Beach, FL
I did some light sanding to deepen the area of contact just a bit and did a total readjustment of the bridge while I was swapping out strings. Lubed everything up nicely while I was at it, of course. In the coming days I'll put the guitar through its paces more thoroughly and get back to everyone.
Thanks for the input, gents!
 
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