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germangallardo

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Jan 13, 2007
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478
Hey guys, I've read the FAQ about setting up my JP however Im changing the string gauge (10s to 11s :cool:) and I've got some wonder wipes right here. So I know I have to adjust everything due the gauge change. Also Im aware it's advised to change a string at a time, but I really want to clean the guitar so...

If I remove all the strings will I damage the bridge? Its going to be a journey since this is going to be my first setup ever, so any other recommendations will be appreciated.


Thanks! :)
 

LoudGtr

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Sep 26, 2005
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First set-up ever!? On a floating bridge :eek: Save yourself a big headache and have a professional duoit. Since you are changing to a heavier gauge as well, this is a big challenge for a "first timer".

If you decide to go for it...good luck.
 

Plaschkes

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He didn't say it was his first time.

I remember that Jon said in a thread a while back that it's OK to take all of the string off for a short period of time and clean the fretboard without having the need to later re-adjust the trem and truss-rod.

Godd luck. :)
 

morsecode

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He didn't say it was his first time.

I remember that Jon said in a thread a while back that it's OK to take all of the string off for a short period of time and clean the fretboard without having the need to later re-adjust the trem and truss-rod.

Godd luck. :)


Actually he said it was his "first setup ever".

What I do may not be necessary but I like prop up or block the trem using a good piece of sturdy foam underneath the bridge so as not to damage the body. I believe I got the idea from Rich Hill over at I@@@Z R@@z.
 

ivanmihaljevic

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Mar 8, 2007
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Zagreb, Croatia
If I remove all the strings will I damage the bridge? Its going to be a journey since this is going to be my first setup ever, so any other recommendations will be appreciated.


Thanks! :)

No, you won't damage the bridge.

I've posted truss rod and intonation adjustment tips a few times on this board already, so the last time I wrote it down, I also saved it to a text file so I can easily paste it again, so there's no need for me to write the whole thing over again.
Anyway here it is:
The way I set up the truss rod is:

Press the G string on the first fret with your left hand, and with your right hand press the G string right after the last fret. Then look at the distance between the string and the frets between 7th to 9th. The distance between the string and the frets should be very very small (0.3 mm=0.012" maximum), but the string should not be touching the above mentioned frets.
If the distance is too big, tighten the truss rod (looking from the bridge side - turn the wheel clockwise).
If the distance is too small, release the truss rod (looking from the bridge side - turn the wheel counterclockwise).
Make any adjustments gradually and check the curvature the way I described it above after each 1/2 turn.


As far as the intonation adjustment goes:

To check the intonation, compare the harmonic note above the 12th fret of every string to the fretted note on the 12th fret.
If the fretted pitch is higher than the harmonic, saddle must be moved backward to lengthen string (turn the screw at the base of the bridge clockwise).
If the fretted pitch is lower than the harmonic, saddle must be moved forward to shorten string (turn the screw at the base of the bridge counterclockwise).

The strings shouldn't be lower than 1.6 mm (I typed it into a cm->inch converter and it should be something like 0,00624") measured form the top of the 19th fret to the bottom of the string.
 

ivanmihaljevic

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P.S. Don't be frightened of setting up an instrument yourself, just be sure to know what you're doing. There's no other way of learning how to setup your guitar than to try it yourself!
 

Plaschkes

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Actually he said it was his "first setup ever".

What I do may not be necessary but I like prop up or block the trem using a good piece of sturdy foam underneath the bridge so as not to damage the body. I believe I got the idea from Rich Hill over at I@@@Z R@@z.

Whoops, you're right. :eek:

That's what you get after an 8 hour shift of doing absoulotley nothing. ;)
 

Kabz

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Jul 15, 2007
Messages
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Thanks that actually helped me out, I was tightening the truss too much because I thought it would help lower my action, but I was finding too much buzzing and running into some semi-dead notes.

Question:

Don't I always have to compensate for me bridge height when changing the truss?

I was told tighter the truss the higher you raise your bridge, and vice versa or is that incorrect?

Either way, I think I have it perfect now, but I am in Florida so the humidity is killer, I've been tinkering a lot with it.
 

the24thfret

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Absolutely do it yourself. There is no other way to learn about your instrument. Just don't mess up. :)
 

chrisallen

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Oct 12, 2006
Messages
92
um... i'd go buy like, a $100 squier and learn how to set up that thing...

THEN setup your MM.... yeah... 100 dollars well spent IMO
 

LoudGtr

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:cool:

I didn't mean to sound discouraging to the thread starter. It's great to be able to set-up your own guitars and I highly encourage it.

First timer with 7 strings AND a floating trem to boot...hence my reservations. Been there; dropped a few "f" bombs. Without some experience, floating trems are a real PITA.
 

germangallardo

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Jan 13, 2007
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I guess everything would be easier if I got the 10s huh? Anyway I think Im going to give it a shot and try to not kill my beloved JP
 

the24thfret

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:cool:

I didn't mean to sound discouraging to the thread starter. It's great to be able to set-up your own guitars and I highly encourage it.

First timer with 7 strings AND a floating trem to boot...hence my reservations. Been there; dropped a few "f" bombs. Without some experience, floating trems are a real PITA.

Good point. But experience can't be gained by having someone else do the service. He'll have to do it himself at some point.

Let us know how it goes!
 

ivanmihaljevic

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Thanks that actually helped me out, I was tightening the truss too much because I thought it would help lower my action, but I was finding too much buzzing and running into some semi-dead notes.

Question:

Don't I always have to compensate for me bridge height when changing the truss?

I was told tighter the truss the higher you raise your bridge, and vice versa or is that incorrect?

Either way, I think I have it perfect now, but I am in Florida so the humidity is killer, I've been tinkering a lot with it.

Well, the best way to do that is to check string height after you've adjusted the truss rod and then make corrections to the string height.
I setup my string action a little bit less than 2 mm away from the 17th fret.


I guess everything would be easier if I got the 10s huh? Anyway I think Im going to give it a shot and try to not kill my beloved JP

Try it! If you see something is going wrong, stop and take it to a pro.
Music Mans are actually really easy to setup (that's one of the things I love about these guitars).
The only thing that you should worry about is not to over tighten the truss rod because that could cause damage to the neck. Everything else you do wrong can easily be undone.
 

MusicManJP6

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Jan 31, 2007
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Greenville, SC
Definitely just jump in and try to set it up yourself. Make sure you have about 2 hours and plenty of patience and TAKE YOUR TIME. It will be worth it when you are done and it plays like a DREAM. Only thing I would add is to make sure to wait about 15 minutes in between any truss rod adjustments (using 1/4 turn increments!) to give the neck enough time to move completely. And also when you are adjusting the trem claw to compensate for the heavier gauge strings, make 1/4 turns on each screw and then tune up. Small adjustments of the trem claw make BIG differences on the bridge angle. You'll have to tune up several times before the bridge is level again.

I've yet to adjust intonation on my JP, but once I switch back to RPS 10's after my last set of D'Addario's gets worn out, I'm hoping I don't have to mess with the intonation much...
 
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