Lemon Oil for Neck Cleaning

blackspy said:
That's what I thought, but I've been told, more than once .. don't do it. ?? I can't keep track of the conflicting advice....

Jon says here not to use oil/wax on a maple fretboard.

So, to set this straight:

- Rosewood fretboard/maple neck = oil/wax on the back, lemon oil on fretboard

- Maple fretboard/maple neck = oil/wax on back, Murphy's on fretboard (just to clean?)

- Rosewood fretboard/Rosewood neck = BriWax (dark brown)/oil on back, lemon oil on fingerboard

Is that right? Can we get the FAQ updated to include all options?
 
...Dave, as soon as Jon gives the OK on the info you supplied, I will update that in the ROTR/FAQ thread.

Because, Lord knows that you should trust me, sober or not. :D :p
 
i use some gibson pumpspray guitar polish for all the wooden parts on my
guitars. i use it for the fretboard 2-3 times every year, and am quite
happy so far.
 
thindave said:
Jon says here not to use oil/wax on a maple fretboard.

So, to set this straight:

- Rosewood fretboard/maple neck = oil/wax on the back, lemon oil on fretboard

- Maple fretboard/maple neck = oil/wax on back, Murphy's on fretboard (just to clean?)

- Rosewood fretboard/Rosewood neck = BriWax (dark brown)/oil on back, lemon oil on fingerboard

Is that right? Can we get the FAQ updated to include all options?
So we can't use any wax on a maple fretboard...isn't there one applied at the shop? I thought I read this somewhere :confused:
 
Wow this is confusing...I thought maple fretboards were oiled and waxed from the factory just like the "back" of the neck. In the meantime I have oiled and waxed my maple fretboard and have suffered no ill effects.

Tip with the gunstock oil...the bottle says to leave on wood for 2 hours...dont it sets rock hard and only steel wool will shift it. EBMM tips suggest to leave it on for 5 mins before wiping off and applying wax. Should have payed more attention! ;)

SteveK
 
I use Dr. Stringfellow's Lem-Oil on my maple Axis fret board at every string change. I spread it thinly with my fingers and go over it with a very fine steel wool. The oil disolves all of the grime left by my fingers and the strings and the steel wool polishes the frets. I follow that with an application of 100% caranuba wax which I rub in and remove the excess with a clean towel. I've been doing my string changes like this for almost 20 years on all my guitars and I've never had any ill effects.
 
i found somethin' new. we just poached......uh.....harvested a particularly fat h'alli-ma- :eek:- gator in th' back yard...............try some gator grease........it'll make that thang play it's own self! :eek: ehhh-EEEEEE!!!
 
This is what I use, and do, for neck and fretboard cleaning on my EVH. I've never had a problem.

First, clean the wood with Murphy's Oil Soap. Dilute it with a three-to-one water ratio. One part Murphy's, three parts water. Wait for the wood to completely dry. Then, use Birchwood Casey Tru-oil (Gun Stock Oil). Lightly coat the wood with a thin layer of Tru-oil on a paper towel. Let it set for five minutes then whipe away excess with a new paper towl. Then, wait for it to dry, and apply Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax (formerly known as Tru-Wax). Apply a thin coating with a paper towel. Make sure not to use too much. Wait for it to dry, and buff with a soft cotton towel.

I have yet to use steel wool or sandpaper on my fingerboard, but it does need some sort of abrasive cleaning. Anybody have ideas what I should use, and how to use it? Cleaning with Murphy's soap wont get it completely clean anymore.

Here are some pics of the items I use. Murphy's Oil Soap can be bought in a any supermarket. Birchwood Casey products can be bought at any Wal*Mart or local gun store.

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caucajun said:
i found somethin' new. we just poached......uh.....harvested a particularly fat h'alli-ma- :eek:- gator in th' back yard...............try some gator grease........it'll make that thang play it's own self! :eek: ehhh-EEEEEE!!!
Man you funny!
 
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