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ngjenkins

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Hi All,

Looked for a similar thread and search didn't turn anything up. I have a locking nut on a BFR Axis and one of the slots (the B string) is cut too deep. Shimming won't work because it would raise the surrounding slots which don't need it.

Can I just buy a Floyd Rose locking nut? I see this one at Sweetwater and figure I would just use the screws that I have off the original because the screws don't go through the whole neck.

What say y'all?
 

Norrin Radd

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Hi All,

Looked for a similar thread and search didn't turn anything up. I have a locking nut on a BFR Axis and one of the slots (the B string) is cut too deep. Shimming won't work because it would raise the surrounding slots which don't need it.

Can I just buy a Floyd Rose locking nut? I see this one at Sweetwater and figure I would just use the screws that I have off the original because the screws don't go through the whole neck.

What say y'all?
You have to make sure that the one you get is the same width as the one you would be replacing. Those Floyd nuts come in a whole bunch of different sizes.
 

PBGas

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in a somewhat similar experience, I had to replace the locking nut on my BFR Cutlass. This is one that was on the EB site as a feature guitar (Bulls Head). Unfortunately, whoever tech'd it made a huge mess of it, including overtightening the 5/6 string to put the screw into the wood....LOL! They threaded it as well as messed up both trem studs which I replaced. I replaced a few parts as the pre-amp died on it as well and got it back to playing like it should. I bought it used for a great price, so no complaints and I am a tech so I was fine fixing things.

I used an R2 Floyd nut. I actually ground the base of the nut slightly and it worked perfectly. No issues and plays amazing!
 

ngjenkins

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I've had a couple instances with BFRs that have frustrated me. Got them all fixed, but I kinda had this understanding that BFRs were... important? But the setups, builds, and QC I've seen from regular EBMM guitars have seemed superior. But it could just be bad luck on my part. And, to be clear, all of the BFRs were totally fixable (or just needed more tlc in the setups). But, I did find it... odd. Or at least, not what I was thinking about BFRs.
Who knows?!

If I can solve this problem, I think this guitar will be a keeper for me. I really like the rosewood fretboard (I'm just not a fan of the regular maple boards), the slightly different neck shape/finish is much more to my liking, and the satin finish on the body is neat.
 

PBGas

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I did forget to add something important. Make sure you check the top mounting holes for the screws. I did this last month and I remembered that I had to fill the 2 top mount screw holes in the slot where the nut sits and re-drill them slightly back towards the board and then it fit perfectly and sat dead flush to the fretboard.

I can take a pic for you if you want.
 

ngjenkins

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I did forget to add something important. Make sure you check the top mounting holes for the screws. I did this last month and I remembered that I had to fill the 2 top mount screw holes in the slot where the nut sits and re-drill them slightly back towards the board and then it fit perfectly and sat dead flush to the fretboard.

I can take a pic for you if you want.
That would be great! I'd appreciate a pic.
 

ngjenkins

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Whelp... Floyd Rose nuts appear to not be spaced correctly? There's a gap between the edge of the nut and fretboard. So I've messaged EMBB to inquire about a replacement nut.
 

tbonesullivan

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This is somewhat odd to hear, as the locking nuts aren't cut at all. They are only adjusted with shims, so it seems strange that only the B string would have an issue. You also say that there is a space between the nut and the fretboard? Have you tried loosening the retaining screws to see it it can be pushed up flush?
Some pictures of this would be very helpful.
 

dean701

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Barrie, Canada
This is somewhat odd to hear, as the locking nuts aren't cut at all. They are only adjusted with shims, so it seems strange that only the B string would have an issue. You also say that there is a space between the nut and the fretboard? Have you tried loosening the retaining screws to see it it can be pushed up flush?
Some pictures of this would be very helpful.
from the factory most likely they haven't been cut but over time burrs can develop on the slots from string wear. Filing is then necessary but usually not for a new guitar.

I'm sure EBMM support will help out but the Gotoh nuts are the direction I would lean if they can't.

1739080696290.png
 

ngjenkins

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from the factory most likely they haven't been cut but over time burrs can develop on the slots from string wear. Filing is then necessary but usually not for a new guitar.

I'm sure EBMM support will help out but the Gotoh nuts are the direction I would lean if they can't.

View attachment 48249
AHA! Excellent. Thank you for those links.

In terms of pictures, I'm not going to put the Floyd replacement back on, but I can shoot some video/sound to demo what's happening.
 

dean701

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AHA! Excellent. Thank you for those links.

In terms of pictures, I'm not going to put the Floyd replacement back on, but I can shoot some video/sound to demo what's happening.
what year is the Axis?
Gotoh made the bridges and nuts up until 2011. Then I'm not really sure. There is some debate as to who is making them now. Some say it is Wilkinson but Gotoh makes some bridges for Wilkinson so there is the confusion. I put a Gotoh 1996t on my 2019 but I ended up changing it back.. The nuts are another story. I'm a firm believer in Gotoh so normally my replacement parts for anything lean their way.
 

ngjenkins

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It's a 2019 BFR. Unsure if the BFR complicates things even more as I know things get a little weird with specs.
 

dean701

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It's a 2019 BFR. Unsure if the BFR complicates things even more as I know things get a little weird with specs.
I don't think BFR changes anything. Since each guitar is hand sanded and finished in the final stages, there are variances between each guitar. All of my Axis guitars have slightly different necks and I could see how some nut manipulation would be needed.
 

dean701

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Here's an example of the buzz/choke that's happening in the nut.
If you feel like being creative...

Cyanoacrylate, also known as super glue, can be used to fix a guitar nut by filling low nut slots with baking soda and super glue. This method can raise the nut slot and stop buzzing.

Steps

  1. Remove the strings from the slot
  2. Fill the slot with baking soda or nut powder
  3. Apply a small amount of super glue to a toothpick or sewing pin
  4. Touch the toothpick or sewing pin to the baking soda or nut powder
  5. Let the glue harden
  6. File the slot to the desired depth



Here's what I would do (but things drive me crazy and I have to fix them myself.)

To confirm it is the nut as you suspect, I would shim the nut temporarily and intentionally high to see if the problem is in fact a height issue.
I would also move the string around in the pocket and feel for anomalies to make sure it is not a burr or imperfection in the slot. I have a 2013 that had burrs,, has a massive shim on the low end only. It's just wood and metal and things wear down and the factory isn't always perfect.


Another point is that the Floyd r2 nut radius is 10"
The Gotoh and EBMM R2 versions are 14 3/8".
so they will feel different or they will need to be filed to change the radius.
If you have a radius gauge it would help further as you could see if the B is too low.

1739145326570.png
 
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PBGas

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The Gotoh FGR nuts don't fit. I tried one to verify. It's not even close.
I work on these things day in and day out.

Are you saying that the floyd nut leaves a gap at the top of the fretboard? If that is the case, then yes...that is true. I explained to you in a previous post that you actually have to dowel and fill the holes and redrill them and it fits absolutely perfectly. I did slightly grind the bottom of the nut and removed just a tiny bit to get it to the correct overall height. The radius is just fine. 10 to 12" is barely noticable. You just add some shims on top of the baseplate under the saddles. The Allparts individual shims work great. I also upgraded to graph tech locking saddles which are amazing. I've been using them for 6 years now and I don't think I have ever broken a string again.

Just as an FYI...the same radius trem is used on the 10" and the 12" radius guitars and there are no shims under the baseplate.

Anyways....here are the pics of the Floyd R2 nut I put on my Cutlass.
It plays incredible and is an amazing guitar!

IMG_2584 Medium.jpeg IMG_2582 Medium.jpeg
IMG_2583 Medium.jpeg
 

ngjenkins

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The Gotoh FGR nuts don't fit. I tried one to verify. It's not even close.
I work on these things day in and day out.

Are you saying that the floyd nut leaves a gap at the top of the fretboard? If that is the case, then yes...that is true. I explained to you in a previous post that you actually have to dowel and fill the holes and redrill them and it fits absolutely perfectly. I did slightly grind the bottom of the nut and removed just a tiny bit to get it to the correct overall height. The radius is just fine. 10 to 12" is barely noticable. You just add some shims on top of the baseplate under the saddles. The Allparts individual shims work great. I also upgraded to graph tech locking saddles which are amazing. I've been using them for 6 years now and I don't think I have ever broken a string again.

Just as an FYI...the same radius trem is used on the 10" and the 12" radius guitars and there are no shims under the baseplate.

Anyways....here are the pics of the Floyd R2 nut I put on my Cutlass.
It plays incredible and is an amazing guitar!

View attachment 48347 View attachment 48348
View attachment 48349
I saw your post and can say with 100% certainty that I don't feel comfortable filling and re-drilling :D But I really appreciate the pictures.

So, I've reached out to EBMM to see if they have a DIRECT replacement. What I'm hearing here is that they probably don't? Which is a little odd, but I guess not unheard of.
 
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