Low E String Goes Sharp after dive on Axis Sport.

[Pain-Free Music]

Hi All!!

I haven't posted or commented in a good long while. Things are going busily for me musical so I'm not on the boards much. So I figured I'd share the problem I'm having with the tremolo unit on my 1996 Axis Sport with y'all and get your ideas for solutions. Yes, I will be calling EBMM's customer service but I figured they're 3 hours behind me and I'll let them enjoy their morning.

So my issue is whenever I do a dive, even a slight one, with my tremolo when I return to the starting position my low E-string goes sharp sometimes to the tune of a full half-step. Since I tune to Db, this means the string returns to E natural.

Now, I've taken the guitar to my guitar tech to get a set-up. Still had the problem. He said that my saddles could be really worn. (also the graphite I had used to try to solve the problem filled in the holes of the allyn screws that adjust saddle height so I couldn't turn then anymore.) Ok, new solution, get new saddles. Now both my guitar-tech and friend who works for a bass manufacturer (which shall remain nameless) said that somethings catching on the string and they recommended getting saddles from Graph-Tech.

Since I figured they original saddles worked for so long, that I should just order new ones straight from EBMM, which I did. As usual great customer service on the phone. I installed he new saddles, adjusted intonation, tweaked the neck...and sonnnofa...still have that low string going sharp!! I even tried playing around with how tight or loose the tension of the springs are on the tremolo thinking that might be the cause. Again, though, it's only that low E string doing this. The other strings work fine.

So I throw this out to anyone. With the old saddle, and now with the brand new EBMM saddle it is still going sharp on a dive. And it's only that one string. Any ideas? I'd rather not have to spend more money and order another set of saddles from Graph-Tech. Nothing against them, I just figure brand new ones from EBMM should do the job.

 

[patpark]

the issue is most likely the nut. The string should pull straight up out of the nut slot with little resistance. If the string is tight in the slot, it's binding and at the nut. When you dunk the trem bridge, the string isn't returning to zero position as the nut is choking the string.

The saddles would only be suspect if they actually shifted when the bridge was dived down. The G string saddle, because it has less tension than the other strings may move when the bridge is dunked down.

I suggest looking at the nut more closely and clean out any built up gunk in the slot.

 

[beej]

Pat is the man. Think the same thing.

 

[Pain-Free Music]

Thank you Pat!!!

Related question to that recommendation to clean the gunk out of the nut slot. (which sounds rather dirty but I'm getting out of the gutter right now.) What would I use to do that?

 

[patpark]

Thank you Pat!!!

Related question to that recommendation to clean the gunk out of the nut slot. (which sounds rather dirty but I'm getting out of the gutter right now.) What would I use to do that?

I would use a tooth pick and maybe some naptha to lift the dirt out. You can also use a Low E string that is slightly smaller (if you normally use a .046, use .042 and work the string in the slot back and forth, being careful not to press to hard. Just enough to get the slot clean. The string should pass freely in the slot and not get stuck.

 

[Pain-Free Music]

I would use a tooth pick and maybe some naptha to lift the dirt out. You can also use a Low E string that is slightly smaller (if you normally use a .046, use .042 and work the string in the slot back and forth, being careful not to press to hard. Just enough to get the slot clean. The string should pass freely in the slot and not get stuck.

Or use an A-string right? Thanks for the tips. I'll work on it this afternoon and reply later with the results.

 

[Pain-Free Music]

Ok so I did those tricks with the nut and it's not working. This is a graphite nut that I had replaced on the neck in 98 or 99 after the original plastic-type one broke. Perhaps I'll call EBMM customer service tomorrow and see if I can order a replacement nut. If I could upgrade to the new compensating nuts EBMM has now that'd be golden!! If that's not possible I'll ask my guitar tech if he has something that can smooth out that groove. Also isn't there a product called "nut juice" that's a lubricant for that spot?

 

[bbake1]

Chap Stick and a graphite pencil works great too. There is Nut Sauce if you need to buy something.

 

[patpark]

can you pull the Low E string straight up out of the nut slot or is it tight? If its a replacement nut, the slot may need to be sized for the string gauge you're using.

This is all basic set up stuff any decent tech should be able to handle. If the string is tight in the slot, it will not stay in tune.

 

[Spudmurphy]

It's all good advice from Pat. This should be no big mystery to a guitar tech, but it's more fun and cheaper if you can sort it out yourself. Dan Earlwine has a great DVD on making nuts and cutting the slots - explains everything!!

 

[ScoobySteve]

Big bends nut sauce!!

And follow Pat to the T!

 

[shredhed]

How many windings do you have around the pegs? It has locking tuners right? Should be no more than one turn, less is better.

Also some guitars just go sharp when using the bar, likewise they go flat when doing a bend. You have to tap the bar to get it back in pitch in these cases.

Not suggesting yours is like this but could be.

My JP6 has the EB graphite nut and never goes sharp and only goes flat a smidgen (sometimes). A light tap on the bar snaps it back in tune