Lower pickups, clearer sound

[jar546]

Lower pickups, better (clearer) sound and easier tuning.

Does it make sense?

Gave my SR5HH to a luthier to set-up lower action, adjust neck, check frets and adjust intonation.

He said he has to lower the pickups because they were too close to the strings and magnetizing them which also reduced sustain.

Yes, it feels and sounds great and has more clarity although I had the pickups set to factory specs.

Anyone know the ins and outs of pickups and proximety to strings?

BTW, love the lower action.

 

[maddog]

if strings are too far away from the pickups, they don't "sense" enough field change to produce decent volume.

if strings are too close, the field is too strong and damps the motion of the strings, muting sustain.

from the FAQ:

The factory specifications for the pickup height is 6/32" or 4.76mm from the top of the plastic between the pickup covers to the bottom of the G string. The angle of the pickup is set fairly level, so the larger strings are naturally a bit closer. If you haven't already adjusted the pickup or changed to a very heavy gauge string set, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments on the pickup.

 

[adouglas]

I learned a while back that the EBMM factory is staffed by people smarter than I am when it comes to basses. Therefore I pay attention to stuff like factory specs and no longer try to screw around with things trying to "improve" them.

My pickup height, string selection and action are as speced from the factory and the bass is flippin' perfect. I love it. A lot.

Unlike any of my previous basses, every last one of which I screwed around with and none of which were just right.

At some point, one learns when it's time to leave well enough alone.

These guys really, truly do know what they're doing. I don't say that lightly. There are many, many idiots in this world... after all, the definition of IQ is that 100 is AVERAGE.

The EBMM brain trust is not on the left side of the bell curve.

BTW, are you SURE the pickups were set to factory spec? Did you measure with an appropriate ruler (one graduated in 32nds)?

 

[Frantic Slayer]

if strings are too far away from the pickups, they don't "sense" enough field change to produce decent volume.

if strings are too close, the field is too strong and damps the motion of the strings, muting sustain.

from the FAQ:

ive tried some small things, in the end I just take it to my luthier, hes a great guy, and I trust him...he sets it up for me

 

[jar546]

ive tried some small things, in the end I just take it to my luthier, hes a great guy, and I trust him...he sets it up for me

From now on me too.

Maddog shares the luthier's opininion and the FAQ confirms that.

What I know now is that the bass sounds better than it did before, includidng when I bought it new. I am loving this low action. It was a minor adjustment at first having the pickups so low (because I rest my thumb against the pickup and on top of the B string) but like everything else you get use to it.

With a great bass like the SR, you can't go wrong and it has the ability to be set up as we individually like it and still sound and feel great.

 

[spencer]

From now on me too.

Maddog shares the luthier's opininion and the FAQ confirms that.

What I know now is that the bass sounds better than it did before, includidng when I bought it new. I am loving this low action. It was a minor adjustment at first having the pickups so low (because I rest my thumb against the pickup and on top of the B string) but like everything else you get use to it.

With a great bass like the SR, you can't go wrong and it has the ability to be set up as we individually like it and still sound and feel great.

Maybe he lowered the strings to where hefelt they belonged and then noticed your pickups were too close so lowered them. Same space from string just lower into body.. And what you really love is the lower strings..

 

[jar546]

No, he lowered them before he lowered the strings. the distance the pickups were lowered was greater than the distance the strings were lowered too.

 

[Rano Bass]

Cool, everyone has a different taste when it comes to setup and it looks like you have found yours, congrats.

 

[vguilbault]

hey quick question for you guys...

In FAQ, there is few items that mention string and pickup height... but it's confusing for me...

FAQ #23
I just bought a new Music Man bass, what is the recommended string height on the neck and over the pickup?
If your truss rod is adjusted properly, the string height above the 12th fret should be 3/32 from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret. 6/32" or 4.8mm from the bottom of the string to the top of the pole piece on your pickup.

FAQ#33
Could you tell me Music Man's StingRay factory settings for relief, string height, and pickup height?
First of all - almost all of the adjustments to string height can be made with the truss rod. Turn clockwise to raise the fretboard (resulting in lower action), counter clockwise to lower it. The factory string height for our basses is 3/32" or 2.4mm between the bottom of the string to the top of the fret on both the E and G strings at the 12th fret. The G string can be slightly lower due to the fact that it is the smallest string. Of course, tightening or loosening the trussrod affects the bow of the neck, which is how desired action is generally best achieved.
The factory specifications for the pickup height is 6/32" or 4.76mm from the top of the plastic between the pickup covers to the bottom of the G string. The angle of the pickup is set fairly level, so the larger strings are naturally a bit closer. If you haven't already adjusted the pickup or changed to a very heavy gauge string set, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments on the pickup.



My question... In #23, they take mesurement from the pickup pole, et in #33 they take mesurement from pickup plastic cover?? Well, if I'm looking at my bass (sterling 4 strings with single H ) pole is higher than the plastic cover... So this might change the mesurement???

Or maybe difference is too small to notice a difference.. But pole are at least a good 1/32 higher than the plastic cover??

Any idea what reference to take, pole or cover?

Thanks
Vincent

 

[GGK]

hey quick question for you guys...

In FAQ, there is few items that mention string and pickup height... but it's confusing for me...

FAQ #23
I just bought a new Music Man bass, what is the recommended string height on the neck and over the pickup?
If your truss rod is adjusted properly, the string height above the 12th fret should be 3/32 from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret. 6/32" or 4.8mm from the bottom of the string to the top of the pole piece on your pickup.

FAQ#33
Could you tell me Music Man's StingRay factory settings for relief, string height, and pickup height?
First of all - almost all of the adjustments to string height can be made with the truss rod. Turn clockwise to raise the fretboard (resulting in lower action), counter clockwise to lower it. The factory string height for our basses is 3/32" or 2.4mm between the bottom of the string to the top of the fret on both the E and G strings at the 12th fret. The G string can be slightly lower due to the fact that it is the smallest string. Of course, tightening or loosening the trussrod affects the bow of the neck, which is how desired action is generally best achieved.
The factory specifications for the pickup height is 6/32" or 4.76mm from the top of the plastic between the pickup covers to the bottom of the G string. The angle of the pickup is set fairly level, so the larger strings are naturally a bit closer. If you haven't already adjusted the pickup or changed to a very heavy gauge string set, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments on the pickup.



My question... In #23, they take mesurement from the pickup pole, et in #33 they take mesurement from pickup plastic cover?? Well, if I'm looking at my bass (sterling 4 strings with single H ) pole is higher than the plastic cover... So this might change the mesurement???

Or maybe difference is too small to notice a difference.. But pole are at least a good 1/32 higher than the plastic cover??

Any idea what reference to take, pole or cover?

Thanks
Vincent

Good Question Vincent, I have a Sterling 4H as well, the pole pcs on my A and D strings are also higher than the pole's on the E and G, not sure how this will change the dimensions as well. Having said all this, I have had my baby for one full year (March 2008) I store it in my case when not using it. The set up was checked when I purchased it and as far as I am concerned it has not needed any adjustments since that day. I will admit I am a little leary about making any adjustments myself, but the way this seems to be going, it may never be an issue for me. Wonderful Product

 

[vguilbault]

CGK,

I just picked up my new sterling a week ago... BUT strings were very high... Way higher thant the factory 6/32, and neck relief was too high also... So i decided to give a try and ajust it...

I tried with a mesurement tape, but it's not accurate... A friend of mind is well equipped in machinery, so he'll make myself a 3/32 and 6/32 hashwood "spacer jigs..." so it will easy to ajust...

If i'm not able to ajust it correctly, my baby will have a "rendez-vous" with the musical instrument doctor...

Vincent

 

[GGK]

CGK,

I just picked up my new sterling a week ago... BUT strings were very high... Way higher thant the factory 6/32, and neck relief was too high also... So i decided to give a try and ajust it...

I tried with a mesurement tape, but it's not accurate... A friend of mind is well equipped in machinery, so he'll make myself a 3/32 and 6/32 hashwood "spacer jigs..." so it will easy to ajust...

If i'm not able to ajust it correctly, my baby will have a "rendez-vous" with the musical instrument doctor...

Vincent

Sounds like a plan, I do have a small 6" (x 1/4" wide) steel ruler measured in 1/32" which I have used as a reference.
1 CDN quarter is approx. 0.060/0.062" x 3 = 0.180/0.186" close to 6/32". A CDN dime is approx. 0.044/0.046" tck x 2 = 0.088"/0.92" close to 3/32" you can try and use them until you get your spacers. Not sure what the US equivalent is other than 27% more $.
Good Luck

 

[ggunn]

Sounds like a plan, I do have a small 6" (x 1/4" wide) steel ruler measured in 1/32" which I have used as a reference.
1 CDN quarter is approx. 0.060/0.062" x 3 = 0.180/0.186" close to 6/32". A CDN dime is approx. 0.044/0.046" tck x 2 = 0.088"/0.92" close to 3/32" you can try and use them until you get your spacers. Not sure what the US equivalent is other than 27% more $.
Good Luck

Spark plug gap feeler gauges work for this, too, and they are cheaply available at just about any auto parts store.

 

[Al Heeley]

Its not that critical. I take it as about 4 or 5/32 from the G polepiece and 5 or 6/32 from the E polepiece, or if you are measuring from the plastic case, add another 1/32 to it.
The middle poles are higher but thats to compensate for the neck and saddle curvature. They should be similar in height above the polepieces, thats the important thing.
Whether its 4, 5 or 6/32 its not going to be a disaster, you shouldn't hear any isues with string dampening in the magnetic field. Trust your own ears and your technique.

 

[GGK]

Its not that critical. I take it as about 4 or 5/32 from the G polepiece and 5 or 6/32 from the E polepiece, or if you are measuring from the plastic case, add another 1/32 to it.
The middle poles are higher but thats to compensate for the neck and saddle curvature. They should be similar in height above the polepieces, thats the important thing.
Whether its 4, 5 or 6/32 its not going to be a disaster, you shouldn't hear any isues with string dampening in the magnetic field. Trust your own ears and your technique.

I'm with you

 

[vguilbault]

Its not that critical. I take it as about 4 or 5/32 from the G polepiece and 5 or 6/32 from the E polepiece, or if you are measuring from the plastic case, add another 1/32 to it.
The middle poles are higher but thats to compensate for the neck and saddle curvature. They should be similar in height above the polepieces, thats the important thing.
Whether its 4, 5 or 6/32 its not going to be a disaster, you shouldn't hear any isues with string dampening in the magnetic field. Trust your own ears and your technique.

Yep, you're right!!! I've done a little ajustment yesterday, and I think now it's good...

Thanks all!!

Vince

 

[BAKER2015]

I learned a while back that the EBMM factory is staffed by people smarter than I am when it comes to basses. Therefore I pay attention to stuff like factory specs and no longer try to screw around with things trying to "improve" them.

My pickup height, string selection and action are as speced from the factory and the bass is flippin' perfect. I love it. A lot.

Unlike any of my previous basses, every last one of which I screwed around with and none of which were just right.

At some point, one learns when it's time to leave well enough alone.

These guys really, truly do know what they're doing. I don't say that lightly. There are many, many idiots in this world... after all, the definition of IQ is that 100 is AVERAGE.

The EBMM brain trust is not on the left side of the bell curve.

BTW, are you SURE the pickups were set to factory spec? Did you measure with an appropriate ruler (one graduated in 32nds)?

this 6/64 or 3/32 factory relief measurement @ the 12 fret dosn't register,to me.

i thought the truss compensated for the tension the strings put on the neck, not adjusted the action??

for relief, i thought you fretted the 1st & behind the last, then take measurement @ 7th?

i spoke with a musicman tech and he read the specs. right from the website factory settings. 3/32 @ 12th. sorry, not must help for as a tech...

3/32 @ 12th fret sounds more like the action setting.

i always thought the relief & action differed from player to player?
ie: light hands- less relief & lower action
heavy hands- more relief & higher action

any input/thought would be most appreciated!!!

B

 

[adouglas]

this 6/64 or 3/32 factory relief measurement @ the 12 fret dosn't register,to me.

i thought the truss compensated for the tension the strings put on the neck, not adjusted the action??

for relief, i thought you fretted the 1st & behind the last, then take measurement @ 7th?

i spoke with a musicman tech and he read the specs. right from the website factory settings. 3/32 @ 12th. sorry, not must help for as a tech...

3/32 @ 12th fret sounds more like the action setting.

i always thought the relief & action differed from player to player?
ie: light hands- less relief & lower action
heavy hands- more relief & higher action

any input/thought would be most appreciated!!!

B

I see where you're going here. I agree that the measurement is not "relief" but "action height" or "string height"... and in fact that's exactly what the FAQ says:

FAQ #23
I just bought a new Music Man bass, what is the recommended string height on the neck and over the pickup?

If your truss rod is adjusted properly, the string height above the 12th fret should be 3/32 from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret. 6/32" or 4.8mm from the bottom of the string to the top of the pole piece on your pickup.

Understand that loosening the trussrod DOES raise the strings relative to the fretboard, so it DOES have an impact on action height even if its primary purpose is to adjust relief.

If you loosen your truss rod all the way, will the strings come up higher off the fretboard, even if you do nothing to the bridge? If you tighten it all the way, will they come down even if you do nothing to the bridge? Yes and yes, of course.

Your last statement is not quite right IMHO. Relief is relief, and does not change according to playing style.

Think about it... if you're adjusting relief by fretting at two places on the neck and measuring halfway, it's going to be set the same no matter how high the strings are when set at your preferred action height, right? So if you want a super-high action, you can raise the saddles. Relief will be set properly,but those strings will be way high up off the fretboard.

IMHO you need to be really, really heavy-handed to need more action height than specified by the factory.

So, here's the procedure, step-by-step:

1) Set relief as you suggest. FYI, for simplicity I fret with my left hand at 1, and with my right thumb at 15...I then stretch my right hand and use my middle finger to push down on the string at about fret 7. I've learned what proper relief feels like, so I don't need to measure it at this point. I can do this on the fly, while wearing the bass.

2) Measure the action height as specified by the factory. If it's off, adjust at the bridge.

3) Repeat 1 and 2 until everything is correct, since they're somewhat interactive.

4) Adjust pickup height as specified by the factory.

5) Re-check everything to make sure it's right. If not, start over.

 

[MrMusashi]

this tool makes setups a breeze

String Action Gauge at Stewart-MacDonald

MrM

 

[Davecg2]

CGK,

I just picked up my new sterling a week ago... BUT strings were very high... Way higher thant the factory 6/32, and neck relief was too high also... So i decided to give a try and ajust it...

I tried with a mesurement tape, but it's not accurate... A friend of mind is well equipped in machinery, so he'll make myself a 3/32 and 6/32 hashwood "spacer jigs..." so it will easy to ajust...

If i'm not able to ajust it correctly, my baby will have a "rendez-vous" with the musical instrument doctor...

Vincent

You can get a small ruler from a hardware store like lowes that measures in 32s/64s its like $3