Luke 3 String Buzz

[Gemmy]

Recently got used 2019 L3 HSS that I brought to my normal tech for a solid setup, string change and to make the bridge dive only. I had him lower the action very low how I like it. After my first gig with the newly setup guitar, I started getting some fret buzz on the high E and B strings around the 19th fret. First thing I did was change strings because maybe they had some dents on them. That helped a bit, but after a gig this weekend, the buzz has gotten a bit worse at the 19th fret. I’ve also noticed the strings for bending feel a bit tight or “chokey“ if that makes sense. I use 9 gauges and I like them to feel easily bendable because I vibrato a lot. I’m thinking he might have leveled a fret incorrectly or maybe put too much tension on the neck and it needs a hair of relief? Does this seem fixable with a little truss rod turn? I’d rather not bring it back and get charged again.

 

[Rbg]

Can you please measure neck relief and string action for us? “action very low how I like it” — you need to be more quantitative as this means different number for different players.

 

[Gemmy]

Sorry about that.

String action (measured by eye with Stew Mac string action ruler) =
High E is about .050 (close to .060), low E is .070
A string = .070
D string =.070, G string = .060, B string = .050

Neck Relief = I dont have a neck feeler gauge tool, but a .50mm Dunlop tortex pick moved the string when I tried to put it over the fret. If that helps

 

[Rbg]

I think the action is reasonable, the you should not have excessive buzzing. As for the relief it is hard to say how much it moved, but 0.5mm is on a high side. I think it is a matter of a setup, raise E B a bit and see if it goes away. If it is a slight buzz it will go away with just small change in the action. I can't imagine tight "chokey" feel, do bends choke as string vibration dies out?

 

[Gemmy]

I think the action is reasonable, the you should not have excessive buzzing. As for the relief it is hard to say how much it moved, but 0.5mm is on a high side. I think it is a matter of a setup, raise E B a bit and see if it goes away. If it is a slight buzz it will go away with just small change in the action. I can't imagine tight "chokey" feel, do bends choke as string vibration dies out?

So should I just do a slight truss rod turn?

The tight/chokey feel is hard to explain. I can still do big vibrato fine but I feel like it is fighting me a little bit. My other guitars don't do that. I think it's something this guitar tech does during setups because Ive noticed that before from other setups of his

 

[Rbg]

0.2mm or just under 9 gauge string diameter is what you want as a starting point for your relief. So if your relief is higher you can tighten the truss rod. It will bring action lower in the middle-ish of the neck so you can raise you strings at the saddles. That way you will keep the action in the middle-12fret where it was and will have some extra action at the end go the neck. If the frets are reasonably leveled the setup is pretty straightforward: two parameters to adjust truss rod and saddles.

 

[beej]

I had to raise my saddles a bit after decking the bridge. Sounds like that’s what you need. Get the relief right so you don’t have any buzzing on the lower frets, then raise the saddle heights so you don’t get buzzing on the upper frets.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with this yourself. It’s a skill worth learning.

 

[Gemmy]

Don’t be afraid to experiment with this yourself. It’s a skill worth learning.

Tell me about it. Here’s another question. The truss rod wheel in the Luke 3’s; which way is counterclockwise if you’re holding the guitar in playing position? That would be towards the ground, correct? Clockwise would be towards your body right?

 

[beej]

Other way, but it’s subjective. Just so long as you know what does what.

Imagine the guitar is a violin and you’re looking from the bridge, down the neck, towards the headstock.

Clockwise is to the right. That adds tension and pulls the neck backward. Straightens the neck.

Counterclockwise is to the left. Allows the neck to bow and adds relief.

Generally speaking, you want the neck as straight as possible. It just needs a tad of relief to reduce fret buzz.

 

[dean701]

I would fall away the last few frets

 

[Gemmy]

Okay so I tried a few truss rod adjustments and buzz is still there. Is it fair play to adjust the action by raising the High E and B string saddles after the guitar has been set up by the tech? OR would I have to go through the whole process again?

 

[Rbg]

you can absolutely just raise E and B.

 

[Gemmy]

you can absolutely just raise E and B.

Awesome okay. Anything else I should be mindful of during this process? I need my Luke for a couple rehearsals and a gig these next couple weeks so can’t risk making it unplayable

 

[Rbg]

Go in small steps and lower string tension when twisting those screws.

 

[Gemmy]

Go in small steps and lower string tension when twisting those screws.

Looks like I reduced the buzz by raising the action a bit. Will play around and see if I need to adjust more. The other thing ive noticed is that my low E goes out of tune quite a bit (especially during gigs), is there anything I can troubleshoot there?

 

[Gemmy]

bump

 

[Rbg]

check you regular stuff: string wrap/wind on the tuner, nut friction, bridge friction, quality of the string itself.

 

[racerx]

Don't have much else to add that others didn't touch on but here goes:

* String source -- make sure you buy strings from a trusted local music store or specialty music retailer (like Guitar Center, Musicians Friend, Sweetwater, etc.). Big box/flea market eCommerce sites like Amazon and Walmart commingle inventory and inexpensive consumable products are unfortunately easy targets for counterfeits.​

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* Neck relief -- a quick/easy way to check this semi-scientifically is to put the guitar in playing position, capo the first fret, press the string directly on a fret near where the neck meets the body with your right hand, and use your free hand to measure relief between the 7-9th frets. You can do this by using an average business card or a feeler gauge between the bottom of the fretted string and the crown of the 7-9th frets. You want as little clearance as possible for a minimal relief setup. (However this is personal preference).​

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* Luke 3 factory setup -- the Luke saddles are very low when setup from the factory because the bridge is set to a fairly significant float. If you switched to a decked/"hardtail" setup, then the saddles will almost certainly need to be raised significantly. Make sure your neck relief is dialed in correctly first before messing with saddle height.​

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* Tuning stability -- lubricate the nut and saddles with pencil/graphite/"special sauce of choice". Make sure the string is thoroughly stretched and re-tune to pitch as you are stretching. Make sure the string is firmly secure in the locking mechanism in the post.​

Following these rules has always netted me reliable playability and tuning stability on instruments ranging from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars. Rarely there will be an issue with a nut, high fret, or defective string but I can't recall the last time that has happened to me in 20+ years. Also bear in mind -- some buzz is inevitable depending on your attack and fretting style. Most people live with it as long as it is not noticeable through the amplifier. If you have heavy attack, then you might prefer more neck relief and higher string action than typically advertised/recommended.

 

[Steve Nukather]

The low E tuning problem on the L3 HSS guitars with DiMarzio pickups is the result of 'Stratitis' where the magnetism of the single coil rod poles interferes with the natural vibration and intonation of the string. The high inductance bridge pickup literally amplifies the problem, and you hear the warbly out of tune sound.

 

[Rbg]

The high inductance bridge pickup literally amplifies the problem

Can you please explain that statement, really interested? Sorry if it is an off topic here.