Help! Majesty issue: Switched to a lighter string gauge, need help

[Nafaryus]

Hey guys,

I have an urgent issue that I need help with, since I am not a tech savvy person by any means. I recently decided to experiment with an ultra light gauge of strings (7's) on my Majesty Artisan 6-string. As I was restringing and got from the high E to the D, I noticed that my tremolo had dipped WAY into the body (it used to be flush).

I remember JP's tech telling me on the Petrucci forum a while back that anytime you switch string gauges, the tremolo spring tension needs to be adjusted. I can not remember for the life of me whether I'm supposed to turn the screws clockwise or counter-clockwise to get the bridge flush with the body again. Can anybody help me?

 

[Beerandbeards]

To loosen the tremelo you should turn left. Lefty loosey righty tighty

 

[tbonesullivan]

What string gauge was on it before? If you are going from the stock strings which are .010 to .046, you will probably need to remove a spring at least. You've got way less tension from the strings to counter balance.

 

[DrKev]

I remember JP's tech telling me on the Petrucci forum a while back that anytime you switch string gauges, the tremolo spring tension needs to be adjusted. I can not remember for the life of me whether I'm supposed to turn the screws clockwise or counter-clockwise to get the bridge flush with the body again. Can anybody help me?

Right is tight, left is loose.

Adding heavier gauge sTrings increases the pull on the bridge towards the neck. We need to correct that extra pull from the strings with extra pull from the springs, so we need to tighten the springs. Our rule is: Right is tight. So, we turn the claw screws to the right, i.e. clockwise.

Clearly then, the opposite is required (turn counter-clockwise) if we change to lighter gauge strings.

-

But with a little patience and care and the right sized screw driver, it's very easy even if you can't remember which way to go. You just do something and see if it's right, if not, reverse what you just did!

1) Guess what the adjustment might be. Then make that adjustment. (Write down every adjustment you make before you make it. That way you can always retrace your steps if need be. Once you get comfortable with this work, you wont need to write anything down anymore).

2) Retune. Then check the bridge angle.

3a) If it's worse than before, do the opposite adjustment to what you just did but twice the amount, or

3b) If it's better than before but not there yet, repeat the previous adjustment, or

3c) If it's now overcorrected, do the opposite of the previous adjustment but half the amount.

Following this procedure it shouldn't take more than 6 adjustments before you're pretty close to perfect.

AND as a BONUS (because it's Tuesday and I'm feeling generous) note that all the above also applies to TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENTS! Easier than making a bacon sandwich.

 

[Nafaryus]

Thanks for all of the responses, folks! The strings that were on my Majesty were 9-46. I decided I wanted to try those Billy Gibbons strings which are 7-38, so it is a SIGNIFICANTLY lighter set.

Just to backtrack, in order to adjust the tremolo spring tension and get my bridge back to resting flush against the body, I should turn both screws COUNTER-clockwise, correct? I really want to avoid having to take it to a tech. Will I need to make any truss rod adjustments? Thanks again!

 

[Guitar Drummer]

Just to backtrack, in order to adjust the tremolo spring tension and get my bridge back to resting flush against the body, I should turn both screws COUNTER-clockwise, correct? I really want to avoid having to take it to a tech. Will I need to make any truss rod adjustments? Thanks again!

Correct. Basically, you are loosening these screws, thereby shortening the distance that the spring stretches.

The world you've entered is literally a balancing act, between the tension of the strings and the tension of the springs, with the goal of having the trem assembling flat / aligned with the body.

That means you'll have to adjust the screws, tune up the strings, adjust screws again, tune up again, adjust again, tune up again, and so on, until you achieve that balance. And don't forget dealing with any potential truss rod issues.

I recently took one of my guitars, with a Floyd Rose trem, and de-tuned it down to E-flat, with no change of strings. That setup still took about an hour.

And since you're in there, if you've ever noticed the springs ringing or humming, you can fix that by putting foam inside the springs. I cut a Nerf bullet head off, then cut the body long ways into quarters, then cut each of those quarters in half. No more spring hum.

 

[or8ital]

Thanks for all of the responses, folks! The strings that were on my Majesty were 9-46. I decided I wanted to try those Billy Gibbons strings which are 7-38, so it is a SIGNIFICANTLY lighter set.

Just to backtrack, in order to adjust the tremolo spring tension and get my bridge back to resting flush against the body, I should turn both screws COUNTER-clockwise, correct? I really want to avoid having to take it to a tech. Will I need to make any truss rod adjustments? Thanks again!

With that big a difference you wont be able to back the screws out far enough without removing a spring (and maybe needing to go to a lighter tension spring). I recently went from the stock 10s to a light 9 set on my majesty and I had to remove a spring for that.

 

[Nafaryus]

Oh boy... it looks like I have gotten myself into quite a pickle with changing to a set that light. If I create a hybrid set of sorts (7, 9, 11 on the high strings, and 46, 36, 26 on the low stings) could I avoid having to remove a spring? Again, I am probably the least tech savvy person in the world, so the less I have to monkey around with this stuff the better.

 

[or8ital]

Oh boy... it looks like I have gotten myself into quite a pickle with changing to a set that light. If I create a hybrid set of sorts (7, 9, 11 on the high strings, and 46, 36, 26 on the low stings) could I avoid having to remove a spring? Again, I am probably the least tech savvy person in the world, so the less I have to monkey around with this stuff the better.

Removing a spring is relatively easy so I wouldn’t worry about that.

 

[tbonesullivan]

Once you get the strings on, then play it by ear. To remove the springs it is usually easiest to pull the claw end first, and then take it out of the block. The two screws do need to have a good amount inside of the wood so they don't pull out.

Usually going down close to 2 gauges will result in spring changes. It's not a hard thing to do. Just youtube it.

 

[Rick C]

Been there and done this! I went with 008 to 038 EB strings. Removing the middle trem spring is absolutely necessary. I also had to adjust the truss rod a little. The best way to set-up floating trems is to block the bridge; lots of YouTube vids showing how to do this. Use business cards/coins/whatever slipped in behind the leading and trailing side of the bridge block from behind to fix the bridge flat to the body so it can't move up or down. Tune the new strings to pitch and leave the guitar a while to allow the neck to settle. If necessary adjust the truss rod to correct action and retune. Once all looks good, remove the wedges; the bridge will bend one way or the other. Adjust the trem claw screws so that the bridge is flat again to the body. If done right the guitar will be in tune and you will be happy.