Messed up my raw stingray fretboard, how do I fix it?

[brandonbass]

-When I got this bass more than a decade ago, I decided to apply afew layers Gunstock oil with no finesse and precision on the fretboard.

-After the back of neck oil has worn out, the fretboard oil is still very much intact.

-I decided to use lighter fluid and a cloth to wipe off the remaining fretboard oil.

-To my surprise, the lighter fluid did nothing much to the oil and they are still very much intact.

-Whats worse, I seem to have scratched the fretboard inlays with my violent rubbing, making it look somewhat dull.

-My plan is just to return it to factory setting, cleaning the oil off the fretboard and perhaps polish the inlays.

-Is it doable by myself or is it time to send it to a pro?

 

[tbonesullivan]

What type of gunstock oil did you put on the fretboard? If it was Tru-oil, it is actually a finish that cures, and naptha / lighter fluid will not take it off. I also seriously doubt you damaged the inlays with a cloth.

This is the OG treatment that I have been told they use for the "hand rubbed oil and wax blend". Birchwood Casey tru-oil rubbed on the maple. Let sit for 5 minutes, then wipe away. I believe you then wait for a day or so, and apply the gunstock wax. So what has happened is that you have several layers of gunstock finish on your fretboard, which is not always easy to get off.

What to do now? I would pull the strings off, and remove the neck. You then want to clean the entire oil finished part of the neck, which ENDS at the nut. The headstock is actually finished with matte poly, and needs no finish. Murphy's oil soap mixed with water applied with a soft toothbrush can get off a lot of the dirt and grunge, but I would wager it is not powerful enough to get through the finish on the fretboard. That pretty much leaves your options to either leave it alone and refinish the back of the neck, or do something about it.

Personally, if this was my bass, after cleaning it with the oil soap and water, I would get some 200 grit sandpaper, or maybe 400 grit, and then use double sided tape to put it on some small blocks, and use those to gently sand between the frets. It looks like there is less oil applied closer to the frets, which does track with it not really being applied carefully. I would use that just enough to get it a nice matte finish, and then I would use the standard finish.

 

[DrKev]

This is the OG treatment that I have been told they use for the "hand rubbed oil and wax blend". Birchwood Casey tru-oil rubbed on the maple. Let sit for 5 minutes, then wipe away. I believe you then wait for a day or so, and apply the gunstock wax. So what has happened is that you have several layers of gunstock finish on your fretboard, which is not always easy to get off.

Need to step in to correct here. It's a literally very light surface treatment: Oil, wipe on, wipe off, no waiting. Then wax immediately after, again wipe on, wipe off, no waiting.

Otherwise what tbonesullivan says is good advice.

I don't know if there are solvents that will get this off, I wold look to teh gunstock finishing community for advice there. It may just come down scraping and sanding. Sanding may be difficult because a thick oil finish will gum up the sandpaper very quickly, so patient gentle work with a cabinet scraper may be the way to go, and easier to get to right up to the frets. Then sand smooth.

 

[tbonesullivan]

Need to step in to correct here. It's a literally very light surface treatment: Oil, wipe on, wipe off, no waiting. Then wax immediately after, again wipe on, wipe off, no waiting.

Otherwise what tbonesullivan says is good advice.

I don't know if there are solvents that will get this off, I wold look to teh gunstock finishing community for advice there. It may just come down scraping and sanding. Sanding may be difficult because a thick oil finish will gum up the sandpaper very quickly, so patient gentle work with a cabinet scraper may be the way to go, and easier to get to right up to the frets. Then sand smooth.

I remember from the Music Man Drew Montell video that when reapplying the wax, you wait for it to dry? I think then it gets buffed out. That may be for restoring the finish, so probably different than the initial application.

As for solvents to get through Tru-Oil, only real choices are citristrip and the nuclear option: acetone. Neither is something I would want to use on a fretboard.