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puppyonacid

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My guitar is going for a nut replacement in a couple of weeks. The tech has it at the mo but the Nut won't be here for a couple of weeks. He's had a look at the electronics. We both know it's possible to turn the tone control into a a coil tap as thats how the BFR's work........But he said he'll need a bit of time to work out how it's been done. Soooooo, was just wondering if anyone here has done that already, and if so, are there any wiring schematics flying around somewhere? Just thought it might make the job a bit easier for him.

Thanking yees in advance!
 

MusicManJP6

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I had the same idea but wanted all single coil when pulled and all humbucking. The tech said because everything is wired to a circuit board on the switch that i'd have to replace the switch to make it all work. I declined after he told me that...
 

beej

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Doesn't the push/pull on the BFR activate both pickups (humbucking together)? I didn't think it split them.

Just had a quick look at the wiring diagram. Yes, you can do it. The middle position on the JP is like position 4 on the Axis SSPT, it's the inside coil of each 'bucker together. So the easiest way to do it is to stick with how they're split in the middle position and just ground out the first coil. (On the Dimarzios, first coil is green wire->white wire, second coil is black wire->red wire.)

To do this it looks like you would solder a wire to the switch PCB where the black lead from the pickup meets the board, and run it to the top lug of a push-pull pot (e.g., the one that's active when you pull out the switch). Then wire the middle lug of the push/pull to ground (solder that to both middle lugs). You'd do the same for the second pickup, except this time use the other half of the push/pull. You'd then get the inside coil in each position when the switch was pulled. The middle position would sound the same as before.

So really, that's just soldering three wires- two from the push/pull to the PCB, and one from the push/pull to ground.

I'll see if I can do up a wiring diagram today or tomorrow. Also, you'd want to test a couple of things with a multimeter, just to be sure it's going to work as planned.
 
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Rossie

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beej, does that mean that when I switch to the neck (bridge) pickup position, and engage coil tap, the neck's (bridge's) single coil is engaged only?
 

puppyonacid

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Hey Beej. That would be cool man. Thanks. The mid position on a JP6 is basically a coil tap as is. It gives you coils 2 and 3.

JP6:
Pos1 Coils 1&2 (bridge bucker)
Pos2 Coils 2&3 (inside bridge and inside neck buckers)
Pos3 Coils 3&4 (Neck bucker)

BFR JP 6:
Pos1 Coils 1&2 (bridge bucker)
Pos2 Coils 2&3 (inside bridge and inside neck buckers)
Pos3 Coils 3&4 (Neck bucker)
Tone pot Pulled + Pos2 Coils 1&2&3&4 (Bridge and Neck Buckers fully on)

That's how I'd like the pot to work on my JP6. He noticed the small circuit board. He says it must be possible as they have done it to the BFR's. But........do they use a different board? I know nothing of electronics as you may be able to tell.
 

beej

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Hey Puppy- I read your post all wrong. You said you wanted a push/pull coil tap (i.e. split). So my response would give you a single coil in the neck, bridge or both positions when pulled.

You want a push/pull to override whatever is selected on the switch, and instead give you both 'buckers in parallel. Since MM already does that with the BFR, your best is to email CS and ask them for the BFR wiring diagram. Then you can have your tech do the same thing.

Rossie- yes, exactly. With a push/pull wired as a coil split, you get split neck, inside coils as before, or split bridge as you switch pickups.
 

MusicManJP6

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Rossie- yes, exactly. With a push/pull wired as a coil split, you get split neck, inside coils as before, or split bridge as you switch pickups.

I'd still like to do this with my JP if anyone is able to 'crack the code'. My tech said he would have to replace the switch to accomplish what I wanted... :mad:
 

beej

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I'd still like to do this with my JP if anyone is able to 'crack the code'.
I thought I explained how to do that in my post.

My tech said he would have to replace the switch to accomplish what I wanted... :mad:
I don't agree with him, you don't need to replace the switch. Besides, it's a standard 4PDT toggle, it just has the circuit board there to make it easier to wire up.
 

MusicManJP6

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Sorry Beej. You did outline how to do it (and quite well I might add)! I'll send those instructions to my tech and see what he thinks. If you come up with a wiring diagram i'd love to be able to send that to him as well!
 
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beej

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Sorry Beej. You did outline how to do it (and quite well I might add)! I'll send those instructions to my tech and see what he thinks. If you come up with a wiring diagram i'd love to be able to send that to him as well!
Sure thing man :) I'll do something up for ya.

Puppy- sorry for the hijack man. If you still need a hand and can't get the wiring diag PM me.
 

MusicManJP6

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EDIT: instructions sent to my OTHER tech (possibly more competent) to stew over. We'll see what he thinks... Thanks again!

(yeah, sorry to hijack as well, puppyonacid - the topic got me thinking about it again...)
 

Rossie

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Rossie- yes, exactly. With a push/pull wired as a coil split, you get split neck, inside coils as before, or split bridge as you switch pickups.

Thanks!
I had been thinking of going down this route for a long time!
 

MusicManJP6

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My tech buddy seems positive that he can wire up a push/pull pot with the stock switch the way I want! I'll update next week when he has time to wire it up and shtuff... I'm stoked! This should make it an even more versatile guitar...
 

Rossie

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Please post some clips! I'm very curious how the splitted Air Norton sounds on the JP...
 

MusicManJP6

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I posted the following in the new thread I created about which configuration to go with when adding the push/pull:

I just got back from messing with the 'new and improved' JP! It’s incredible to say the least. The cleans are phenomenal and the distortion is clearer and it sings so easily now. It’s perfect! I was concerned about the split coils being too bright but the pulled positions sound the same as the stock pushed positions but just not as hot (basically). I really like how it goes from ‘dark but not muddy’ in the neck position then to ‘just right’ in the middle position and then to ‘just bright enough’ in the neck position for both pushed and pulled! There is VERY little volume drop (in the clean channel) between pushed/pulled. I’m tickled to death with it… It made a great guitar even greater… I highly recommend it!

It's the bee's knees for sure! I'll try to create some clips, but can't make any promises because I'm getting married in 3 weeks. But, I think both pickups sound exceptional split, ESPECIALLY the Air Norton, Rossie!

Beej - thanks again for your help!
 
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