murphy's oil soap?

[spkirby]

Hi, how effective is Murphys Oil Soap at removing the grey shadow that appears on the maple fretboards after days/months of playing? I tried lemon oil but it didnt shift it...

Plus do any UK boardies have any local alternatives to Murphy's?

Thanks Steven

 

[hbucker]

Murphy's with a soft bristle tooth brush works really well. Then use lemon oil to clean the rest off and condition the neck.

good luck

 

[Doktor Rawk]

I've got a better way after you use the Murphy's Oil Soap. Instead of Lemon Oil go to any gun shop and pick up Rem Oil from Remington. It dries into the wood and when completely cured is non greasy. A word of caution though, any other gun oil other than Rem Oil will stain your wood so don't fall for the cheap stuff. I do this process on my Ibanez that I refubished and actually you can go one step further after the Rem Oil cures and that is apply two coats of Mothers Pure Carnauba Wax as a sealer which will naturally protect your wood from this sort of thing happening so quickly!

I have a friend who owns an EVH model and once he followed this he said his neck and board were like brand new.

 

[dwf1004]

Not looking to question Doc Rawk's method, which is similar to the EBMM method for cleaning your neck, but check out the EBMM FAQ for additional/recommend info on neck cleaning/treatment:

http://www.ernieball.com/faq_mmguitar.php

As far as Murphy's Oil, I use it on my EVH and Sil to get the gunk off, using a toothbrush as mentioned. Stuff that's been there for years won't come out completely, but the most recent stuff is off in a flash.

 

[Doktor Rawk]

Darrell:
Yep, the Murphys releases all the gunk you're right about that!

The Rem Oil is clear non staining gun oil that dries non slick and also non tacky once you rub it down. The whole point here is to nourish the Maple without leaving an oily residue or buildup. I've been using my Ibanez with such a neck since 1985. It's had the daylights played out of it from here to kingdom come and to this day, after all the refret jobs it still looks amazing. I always used the Rem Oil. Anything else darkens the wood.

The Mothers Carnauba is to now seal the wood so that your sweat does not permeate into the maple. It's a moisture barrier that protects against further buildup. Of course it doesn't last forever, it just delays the whole buildup process.

 

[OrangeChannel]

Or Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Which EBMM uses. And their Tru-Wax. Which EBMM uses.

 

[dwf1004]

Hey Doc, cool...whatever works for you. I'm not trying to challenge ya.

I just go by the EBMM method in the FAQ, as well as per personal usage, their method o' doing things. That's how they treat each neck before they leave the shop (they have the advantage, I'm sure, though, of a big vat that they can just dip them in -- you and I are putting in some elbow grease), so they gotta be doing something right, right?

Whichever method you choose, just make sure that your place of application is well ventilated, as this stuff doesn't smell like strawberry bubblegum. That, and some of your cain brells...er, brain cells can be destroyed by the smell. Might I also suggest some rubber gloves, as the gunstock oils are a PITA to get off of your skin.

Just my take...

 

[Doktor Rawk]

The wax smells like a banana split!

 

[PurpleSport]

Unlike the rest of the US, where you can just walk into a Wal-/K-Mart sports department and grab a bottle off the shelf, here in NYC I'm having a bear of a time finding EITHER brand of gunstock oil - or any other gun stuff for that matter (gee, I wonder why? )...

I wonder if a clear tung oil finish like those sold in a hardware store might be a usable alternative?

(I know, I can easily order the B/C or Remington stuff online, just curious...)

 

[bing4sons]

Unlike the rest of the US, where you can just walk into a Wal-/K-Mart sports department and grab a bottle off the shelf, here in NYC I'm having a bear of a time finding EITHER brand of gunstock oil - or any other gun stuff for that matter (gee, I wonder why? )...

Well, here's a link to the gun stock oil (I didn't see the wax at Sports Authority online, but you can probably order from somewhere else:

Gun Stock Oil

 

[bing4sons]

Here's a link to the Gun Stock wax:

Gun Stock Wax

I'm sure there are plenty of other places to get it online.

 

[Doktor Rawk]

Do Not Use Tung Oil! I Repeat.. Do Not Use Tung Oil!!

If you want e mail me your address and I'll send you the Rem Oil! It's no big deal I just want to make sure you do the right thing so shoot me the e mail and I'll get it out to you pronto!

 

[GWDavis28]

PurpleSport,

You can get the gun oil and wax that EBMM recommends at Dicks Sporting goods. Dicks started in Connecticut (spelling) they've just moved up here into Massachusetts. You can also get it from Dicks online.

http://www.ernieball.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2598

Best of luck. Glenn |B)

 

[hbucker]

I'm not quite sure where the doktor is coming from with his Tung Oil comment but I think I agree with him.

Tung Oil is great but it's a finish. It builds up and seals much the way paint does although it doesn't seal as well as paint. In no way is it a cleaner. If you put Tung Oil on your neck be very sure you have the neck as clean as possible before you apply it otherwise you will trap the finger goo and other nice stuff under the finish... yuck!

For that matter, I'm not sure how gunstock oil is different. I've never worked with hit but it sounds like a finish of some kind. Does it actually clean too??? IMO I would try to get the neck as clean as possible before using the gunstock oil just as I would tung oil.

Also, many folks think you need to keep reapplying tung oil every year. IMO these folks are just plain wrong and will end up in 10-20 years with a neck very mucked up with layers of dirt and tung oil. I built a guitar in '98 and put tung oil on the back of the neck. I've not had to recoate it yet and the finish is still perfect.

Just know what you're using, how it works, what it doesn't work on and what it's purpose is. Too many people apply these products and then read the labels...

 

[PurpleSport]

I lived in Hawaii as a kid and did some stuff in koa wood in my high school woodshop, which we finished in tung oil and topped with auto wax - a very similar procedure, finish, and feel to the EBMM gunoiled neck, which is why I asked. Can't vouch for the longevity of the tung finish as I gave or sold all the pieces away, unfortunately!

Regarding using oils as wood cleaners...oils aren't usually used for this, but "lemon oil" for furniture is a bit of an exception to the rule. I think the astringent acid/solvent properties of the lemon component of these products is what does the cleaning, the rest of the mix is probably a neutral mineral oil or something similar that's used as a delivery/preservative base. Lemons themselves aren't that inherently oily, though there is some volatile aromatic oil in the peel, so it would probably take a LOT of that to make a whole bottle's worth (and it would be some truly concentrated strong stuff that could potentially be harmful to humans in that state). There might also be some lemon juice in the mix as well depending on the product, since it's also a good cleaner on it's own.

 

[hendmik]

I use Murphy's Soft Wipes after every performance or rehearsal. It keeps me from having to ever dig in and scour when I change strings. They're just like soaked paper towels you can thow away when you're done.

 

[OrangeChannel]

Dude! That is a frickin' great idea!