• Ernie Ball
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  • Sterling by MusicMan

algra

New member
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
2
Hi,
I have 1998 SR4 and seems like the truss rod nut is fully at the end when I tried to adjust it turning clockwise.
The neck right now has the right relief but I just worry if I need to turn it up little bit more I want be able to do that. Is there any simple fix to that? Maybe add a washer front of the truss rod nut?
Any help/suggestion appreciated.
 

Golem

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,278
Location
My Place
`

That is not a rare situation for basses in general,
various brands. But the solution for an EBMM is
especially fortuitously easy. Remove neck, spin
off the wheel/nut, add fender washer between
wheel and neck.

You may, or may not, need to trim back the PG
opening. Rarely would any wood need to be
shaved from the wheel access rout on the body.

It's important to realize that when the wheel is
at its limit [yet further neck adjustment may be
desirable] this condition does NOT mean that
the truss rod is excessively tensioned. It simply
means you bottomed out the wheel against the
end of the threading on the rod. The tolerances
for truss rod installations, industry-wide, aren't
[per empirical evidence] very precice, thus the
need to shim the rod nut. With the wheel type
of nut, the washer does the trick. Shimming the
more typical rod nuts requires adding a custom
modded bushing ... same effect as the washer
but complicated by the tight working space :-(
 

tbonesullivan

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Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
2,412
Location
New Jersey
I have noticed that some of my EBMM truss rods turn easier than others. I don't know whether this due to age, or maybe because one of my stingrays has a rosewood board. The Wheel is a lot harder to turn on the 2012 than on the 2007 or 2003. It seems to be friction, as it "jumps" once you get enough force on it. Is there any recommendation for something like graphite to put on the plastic washer?
 
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