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Norrin Radd

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Jul 20, 2004
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Saint Paul
The one on my JP moves like soft butter. Is this something that eases over time (I don't remember the JP ever being this hard to move, though)? Is my truss rod binding? Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks.
 

robelinda2

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Nov 10, 2005
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Diamond Creek, VIC, Australia- at Rancho Alberto
my pinkburst truss wheel just wouldnt budge, but i just fought like crazy and it moves smooth now.

we have had a wave of stinkin hot weather recently here in Melbourne, the other day i went to play my Black ASS and 20th Silo and the strings were dead flat against the fretboard!!!! No relief at all on the neck. amazing. had to go and adjust ALL my balls.
 
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candid_x

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Jun 26, 2006
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One of my silo trusses is very stiff, the other is very easy to turn.

Rob, I have just the opposite problem here with extremely dry climate. Anyone here use one of those case humidifiers with their balls?
 

adouglas

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Aug 12, 2005
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On the tail end of the bell curve in Connecticut
There's a phenomenon called "stiction." Yes, that's a real word:

Stiction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

We've all experienced this...it takes a bit more force to get a threaded fastener to break free than it does to move it afterwards.

In my experience threaded fasteners under a lot of tension take a "set" and that first motion takes a whole lot of force. But if you stop and start, you don't need to break it free again with the same amount of force.

So...since your trussrod is under tension, try loosening it first (thereby breaking it free without fighting the tension as well), then cranking back down.

Also...use a longer lever. My weapon of choice is a small Sears Craftsman Phillips screwdriver...strong enough not to bend, long enough to apply a good amount of force. It's the one on the bottom in this pic:

f9_2.JPG
 

Norrin Radd

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Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Very much appreciated - will give it a go.

:)

SanDimas High School Football Rules!
 

GWDavis28

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Jun 23, 2003
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Mass
There's a phenomenon called "stiction." Yes, that's a real word:

Stiction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

We've all experienced this...it takes a bit more force to get a threaded fastener to break free than it does to move it afterwards.

In my experience threaded fasteners under a lot of tension take a "set" and that first motion takes a whole lot of force. But if you stop and start, you don't need to break it free again with the same amount of force.

So...since your trussrod is under tension, try loosening it first (thereby breaking it free without fighting the tension as well), then cranking back down.

Also...use a longer lever. My weapon of choice is a small Sears Craftsman Phillips screwdriver...strong enough not to bend, long enough to apply a good amount of force. It's the one on the bottom in this pic:

f9_2.JPG

Ad, OC recommended to do just what you did, but to also grind the point off and it's even better.

Glenn |B)
 

GWDavis28

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Jun 23, 2003
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Mass
Norrin, you buy a Craftsman Phillips head screw driver and grind the point/tip off so that it has a flat end. That way it bottoms out nice in the truss rod wheel.

Glenn |B)
 

Lou

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Jan 23, 2003
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MA
Are you having trouble tightening it or do you have a problem in both directions?
 

Norrin Radd

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Saint Paul
DOH:eek: ......................:D Whip them barbells out son.....................or curl some beers!!!!!!!!!

he heh heh...:D

Yeah, I manned up and turned it a lot in both directions, but for the squeaking, it was a relatively painless process. It now moves rather easily. Thanks Jon! Much appreciated. :)
 
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