Neck plate vs. recessed grommets

[bradfordws]

I know the recessed neck plate has been discussed before, but I have a new question. I wonder if BP had ever considered using those recessed grommets and doing away with the neck plate altogether - maybe saving a few more cents in the process. I'm sure you've all seen other mfrs that use this method. I personally think it's a better way to go. Just a small complaint, but I've replaced all the neck screws in my MM's with flat head screws because those dome head screws will tear up your shirt if there's the smallest little sharp edge on the screw. I play in a disco band and was wearing a polyester shirt (of course) and had it happen - kinda jacked up the shirt. The coutoured heel was a nice touch on the Sterling, but ditching the neck plate would be very cool. Yes? No? Then again, maybe I'm the only one with this opinion.

 

[spencer]

nope I like it, Never bothers me looks much better than the no plate..

 

[TNT]

Bradford,

Interesting topic!!!

Yes, I'm sure that the "raised" head screw (that has a teeny sharp edge) has put a slight tear/rip etc. . . in most all players shirts at one time or another (including myself).

Also, a nice quality chrome neck plate does add a tad of weight.

In my opinion though I like and prefer the neck plate "cosmetically". I have some custom plates too that I inscribed with "scripture" verses on them.

However, I know in practicality though, it is probably less expensive to drill recessed holes than to include a chrome neck plate (not sure though if it's much less.

 

[oli@bass]

I never understood the need for a bulky neck plate... I loved the recessed plate on the early Sterlings and on the 20th Anniversary StingRay... and though I never had a ripped shirt due to the screw heads not being properly recessed, I would prefer recessed grommets if they were availble.

 

[the unrepentant]

I like the chrome plate, seems to me that it would be a lot more sturdy than recessed ferrules as on a G&L because the pressure is being spread over a wider surface by the plate, and i think it looks better. Also if you don't like the screws ripping your shirts up, then don't round them off with your screw driver and be more careful when you remove the neck, or don't remove the neck at all.

The body for the SUB bass project i'll be embarking on soon has recessed holes for the ferrules, i'm not sure why, i'll show you guys anyhow.

 

[Ken Baker]

With a swamp ash or alder body, crushing of the wood under ferrules shouldn't be an issue as the wood is usually sufficiently strong. For softer body woods, such as basswood, having the neck plate might look to a manufacturer to be good insurance against crushing. OTOH, there are a LOT of good manufacturers that successfully use ferrules with basswood, G&L being but one of them with their Tribute line.

My EBMM basses have plates. My newer USA G&Ls have ferrules and my older G&L has a 3-bolt plate. A couple Fenders have plates. Other basses floating around are a mixed bag. They all work as they should at holding the neck firmly in place, even the 3-bolt, with no crushing being observed.

Looks like a manufacturing preference to me.

Now, as to the screwed up shirt, the unrepentant is right. Shirts screwed up by playing bass are, more often than not, a victim of screwed up Phillips head screws. Solution? Don't strip out the screw heads. Use the correct sized driver (#2) that is in good condition and be sure it's held straight. You can fix one that's mildly messed up by removing it and sanding it smooth with 220 grit paper. Whatever you do, don't try to sand on it while it's on the bass.

Ken...

 

[bdgotoh]

The biggest factor in this is body finishing. The reason they stopped inletting the Sterling neck plates is because it was very hard to get a good finish down into that recess. If you're not super careful you'll buff through the finish on that sharp edge. Ferrules offer the same problem to some degree, it's tough to get them all perfect in terms of size, shape, and color, especially on burst finishes.

If you use a neck plate it covers up all those holes very nicely - super fast and easy in assembly.

I don't sand off those burrs Ken, I use a small, lightweight tack hammer with a very smooth face to tap them smooth. Works like a charm and actually knocks metal back into the screw head grooves. I usually back the screws out a few turns so I don't hit the body or plate. It works on all kinds of screws.

 

[RobertB]

Interesting. I've never had a screw-head related wardrobe issue, ever. I love the chrome plate. What do you want, an EBMM or a Modulus? I don't even see any of the ladies complaining about the "extra weight" guys, come on. Man up!!

 

[AnthonyD]

Funny, I've worried way more about buttons and buckles inflicting damage to the back of the bass - never thought of the back of the bass biting back!

 

[Duarte]

never thought of the back of the bass biting back!

They're out to get us...

I like the neckplate, classic look. It looks more quality and it says 'Ernie Ball Music Man' on it - Sweet. I like it when stuff I own says that on it.

 

[Rano Bass]

I never thought of that before but it's a good point.

In my case it has never bothered me and i don't see the EBMM crew changing that any time soon, comes with the territory just like some guys complaining they need a thumb rest on single pup basses

If i like it i'll use it, not matter what neck attachment method it uses.

IMO of course.

 

[bradfordws]

OK, I'll stop whining - I'm just real picky about stuff! Some of you don't care about the neck plate and never had "wardrobe issues." Others think it wouldn't be a bad idea to ditch the plate. I just thought it was an idea that ties in with the old debate over recessed neck plates. There was talk about saving a few cents and paint issues, but recessed screws and no plate would save even more time and money. Yeah, I know, I need to either go design my own line of basses or shut up.

 

[Duarte]

Just be greatful they aren't using 3 bolt plates anymore.

 

[MingusBASS]

I need to either go design my own line of basses or shut up.

I'm having a hard time deciding which option is more realistic.

 

[the unrepentant]

With a swamp ash or alder body, crushing of the wood under ferrules shouldn't be an issue as the wood is usually sufficiently strong. For softer body woods, such as basswood, having the neck plate might look to a manufacturer to be good insurance against crushing. OTOH, there are a LOT of good manufacturers that successfully use ferrules with basswood, G&L being but one of them with their Tribute line.

FYI my tribute is made of swamp ash... just thought i'd say

 

[kylierider]

I like the plate...You can just call customer service, get a couple new screws and install them with the correct screw driver. Problem solved.

 

[Caca de Kick]

I have never had a problem with neck plates on any bass...

If theres a shap rise in the neck screw, it was caused by the screwdriver, and it's nothing a nail file or piece of sandpaper can't get rid of.