need advice/help

[fifthorange]

ok here is the deal. my bass has fet buz and when i play, the strings(mostly the) hit the neck of bass. i am guessing that this is due to the neck not being adjusted or something similar. now i think that i have to turn the truss rod but i have never done it before and i dont want to reuin my bass. how should i adjust the truss rod? should i have the rod tighter or looser? what are those effects? how do i do it? what are your suggestions

 

[midopa]

Go to the Ernie Bal website and look up Bass FAQs for MM basses. If I remember correctly, you turn the truss wheel towards the G String to raise the action and vice versa to lower the action.

Also according to the FAQs, note where the fret buzz occurs. If it occurs near the nut, then you may have to raise the action via the saddles. If it occurs near the middle of the neck, you'll have to raise the action via the truss wheel. Once again, I'm not entirely sure I'm correct so be sure to give that FAQ a good read.

When turning the truss wheel, I turn the amount of another hole. That is, I insert a small screwdriver opposite the side I want to turn the truss wheel towards (ex. If I want to turn the truss wheel to the G string, I insert the screwdriver on the hole on the E string side. Generally there are three holes visible, the one on the top/middle and the other two on the sides) and turn until that hole is in the center.

I'm sure other guys can give you more handy tips, since I've only had a MM bass for a short while.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

This is how I do it. Others have different opinions.

There’s no dial-in string height nor truss rod setting that will be the same for everyone. The instrument has to be adjusted to suit your own playing style.

Make adjustments in the play position so gravity doesn’t enter the equation. The best way is to be seated with the instrument on your lap.

Adjust the truss rod to get the neck as straight as you can. Turn the truss wheel (capstan) clockwise (as you look from the heel of the neck towards the headstock). Use the shaft of a small screw driver in the capstan wheel holes. To be on the safe side, loosen the strings between each adjustment and retune to pitch. Use a finger of your fretting hand and depress the E string at the first fret. While doing this, use the thumb of your right hand and depress the E at the 12th fret in such a way that the middle finger of that hand is pointing towards the first fret and use that finger to depress the string at the 5th or 6th fret. Aim for a paper thickness gap (or even less) between the top of the fret and bottom of the string at that point. That’s the starting point for the neck. It may need finer adjustment latter.

If, at any time, you feel excessive resistance on the truss wheel, PROCEED NO FURTHER as you could permanently damage the truss rod. Take it to a tech.

For a comfortable feel of the strings, their height should reflect the radius of the neck. At the 17th fret, measure the height of each string between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. Don’t depress the first fret for this measurement. Using a 6 inch steel rule, aim for 3/32 inches on all strings consistent with no fret buzz and comfortable height. Depending on your playing style, you may be able to set them lower or may need to set them higher. Tune to pitch and check the strings all up and down the neck.

If you find the strings buzz at the first few frets only, begin adding relief to the neck by turning the truss wheel, in small amounts, counter clockwise until the buzzing goes away. There’s no need to loosen the strings for this adjustment (you’re loosening the tension). That is your truss adjustment.

I usually like my strings (on the G side) slightly lower than the preceding ones. After setting all strings to the same height, I lower the G ¼ turn and lower the in-between (A and D) strings down proportionately to meet the G.


After adjusting your action you should readjust the pickup. While depressing the E string at the last fret, measure the distance from the bottom of that string to the top of the pickup magnet for that string. Adjust for a distance of 4/32 inches. Do the same with the G string but, this time, aim for a distance of 3/32 inches. Final adjustment may have to be made to the G side by ear, so that the volume is even across all strings.

After you’ve done the set-up, small adjustments to the truss rod can be done latter, either counter clockwise or clockwise without loosening the strings. You’ll find this necessary during seasonal changes throughout the year.

Generally, if the strings buzz only at the first 4 or 5 frets then neck is too straight for your playing style. If it only occurs past the 12th fret then you have too much relief (bow) in the neck. If you find the strings buzz all up and down the neck, then the relief is ok but the strings are set too low.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Perhaps I should add this:

Take it steady as you straighten the neck...as you turn the capstan truss wheel to the right.

Adjust so that the hole you put the driver in, now occupies the space previously occupied by the hole in front...ie one hole at a time and check relief after each adjustment...with EB necks, a little goes a long way.

 

[cgworkman]

are you guys saying to adjust the rod beofre touching bridge saddles when it comes to string height?

usually most people say to just adjust the bridge saddles

 

[bovinehost]

It's important to remember that both truss adjustment AND bridge saddle height will both affect the action on your bass.

If you don't understand COMPLETELY and THOROUGHLY how this works, you need to go a Google search (although I think there are a few informative threads here too, if you search) and read up on what does what and to whom.

If you aint' comfy doing your own setup, take it to an experienced tech who is and who will also explain what he's doing and why.

Once you get the entire picture and how things work together, you'll be breezing through your setups in no time, and your bass will play how YOU want it to play, not how someone else THINKS you want it to play.

 

[cgworkman]

i agree - you don't have to be the head cashier at the wal-mart to do your own setup - i was doing my own set (and quite well too!) when i was 13 years old - and have been doing it myself for over 2 decades - i'm a firm believer that every bass player should be able to service his/her own instrument 90% of the time....

that's all part of being a bassplayer!

 

[jongitarz]

Does that mean I can quit the Wal-Mart gig?

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>>are you guys saying to adjust the rod beofre touching bridge saddles when it comes to string height?

Yeah. Maybe adjust the string height roughly but any neck relief adjustment is going to affect your string height.

I try and get the neck fairly straight to begin with....retuning to pitch between each adjustment. Initially I aim for no relief at the 5th or 6th fret while depressing the 1st and 12th...although some necks will not adjust perfectly straight.

After the initial neck adjustment, I set the string height at the 17th fret...around 3/32" and then check for string buzz from around the middle of the neck working to the heel. I fine tune the height to get the strings as low as possible without buzz.

From there, I check the the top of the neck. If there's any fret buzz in this area then I slowly begin adding relief untill there's none and go back and check the string height, making sure everythings ok up and down the neck.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Hey Jon....how do you go about it???

 

[fifthorange]

so if the buzz is in the 1-5th, that means that i have to loosen the tuss rod and if the buuzz is at the last couple of fretts, i should tighten it?

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>so if the buzz is in the 1-5th, that means that i have to loosen the tuss rod and if the buuzz is at the last couple of fretts, i should tighten it?

IMO yeah....if there's buzz all over the place in those areas. If it's isolated to just one note you may have a high fret.

If you have doubts about anything then you should take it to a tech.

 

[jongitarz]

Hi Y'all....If the fret buzz is around the 5th-7th fret area, the neck probably needs more relief. (loosen the truss rod counter clockwise) If the buzzing happens in the area of th 12th fret on up, tighten the truss rod and raise the saddles...Not written in stone but this usually works.

As usual Rod, Bovine et al have been giving great advice. Listen to them for they know of what they speak(HUH?)

Jon

 

[fifthorange]

i got it, but i think i should take it to a tech, just to make sure

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Hey, congrats for diving into the deep end! Just remember that he wont be playing your Bass...you will be...so ask him to explain things to you....so that you can fine-tune your own setup

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Jon...on the subject of fret buzz...do you have any advice about what I've termed "ghost buzz"...buzz in between the fretted note and the nut? I imagine a low fret or a kink in the string. I have one on the D string...10th position (G note). If I tilt the top-end body of the Bass towards me it goes away...same result if I mute the string behind the fretted note at the same time I play.

I know it's a curely Q...can you check with the other techs???