Need some Bongo5 setup help, please

[AtomicPunk]

I recently was working with my Bongo and had the time to try and set it up even better than before, which is...well....this. I noticed the string action was higher than spec as it goes toward the 12th fret, about 1/8" to 3/8", so I was going to try and flatten the neck out and lower the saddles against the bridge. Truss rod adjustment didn't help, as it feels like it is maxed out and resisting, so I did not push it. I did loosen it all the way the other way, a little at a time, and took the strings off of it for a day or 2 to try and let the neck settle.

Basically, if I don't have the saddles raised up off of the bridge, I get fret buzz from the 10th fret all the way down to the higher frets. Can't seem to get the neck to settle "straight" so I can get the saddles down and lower the action there. Any tips? I am using D'addario EXL 170 strings, due to no music stores here carrying Ernie Ball Power Slinkys.

 

[mynan]

Impossible to diagnose via internet. Take it to a reputable pro.

 

[AtomicPunk]

We all know how many of those there are out there....but thanks.

 

[MrMusashi]

now i dont mean to overload customer service, but if you dont have a dealer out there that can help you or some member from your area can recommend you someone to go to...
perhaps give customer service a call. they are after all the expert on eb basses!
also, i keep hearing good things about them

details in signature below

MrM

 

[maddog]

I recently was working with my Bongo and had the time to try and set it up even better than before, which is...well....this. I noticed the string action was higher than spec as it goes toward the 12th fret, about 1/8" to 3/8",

Not sure what this means. At the 12th fret, what is the height of the string as measured by the gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string?

so I was going to try and flatten the neck out and lower the saddles against the bridge.

I've never done a setup where putting the saddles flat on the bridge was a good idea.

Truss rod adjustment didn't help, as it feels like it is maxed out and resisting, so I did not push it.

I will pull back on the top of the headstock when tightening the trussrod. This will take the tension of the strings out of the equation. Makes tightening easier. If still won't move, time to find an expert.

I did loosen it all the way the other way, a little at a time, and took the strings off of it for a day or 2 to try and let the neck settle.

Good place to start from scratch.

Basically, if I don't have the saddles raised up off of the bridge, I get fret buzz from the 10th fret all the way down to the higher frets.

Again, I've never done a setup where putting the saddles flat on the bridge did any good.

Can't seem to get the neck to settle "straight" so I can get the saddles down and lower the action there. Any tips? I am using D'addario EXL 170 strings, due to no music stores here carrying Ernie Ball Power Slinkys.

Starting from scratch:

1. restring the bass and tune to pitch.

2. fret 1 and 12 at the same time.

3. While fretted, tap the string at the 6th fret. If the spacing between the string and fret is good, the tapping should result in a tink. If no tink, loosen the trussrod, allowing more relief. Another method is to see if you can slip a piece of paper between the 6th fret and string while 1 and 12 are fretted.

4. Once proper neck relief is set. adjust saddles until there is about 1/8" gap between bottom of the B string and top of 12th fret. G string should be set at 3/32".

If this does not get it back to a playable condition, time to take it to a pro. If you want something different, you'll have to fight with it on your own. Geometry is geometry. There is room to adjust to taste but only so much.

 

[AtomicPunk]

Thanks for the ideas...gives me something more to try. And I might put in a call to Customer Service if I can't get her squared away.

 

[MrMusashi]

uhm.. if you are just a tiny bit uncertain about how to set up the bass id suggest calling cs first..

i dont mean to be rude, but if the bass is close to factory specs its a lot easier to set it up than if somebody adjusted everything without knowing what happens when they did it!

i once did lend my 20th sr5 to someone for a test.. it came back with a setup that made me cry!
he raised all the saddles so the strings was the same height. then he tightened the truss to make the neck completely straight. then he raised both pickup so high that they almost touched the strings when you fretted at the last fret. and to top it off he adjusted the intonation with open vs 12th fret harmonics..
actually he topped that again by complaining about how bad the bass sounded. at that point he should be happy i didnt have any extra strings in the bass case or else i would have whipped him to death with it.
it took me a good day to get everything back into working order.. a setup that is close to factory specs normally just require minor tweaks and should be done much faster

hth!

MrM

 

[maddog]

meh. It's already out of whack. Time to learn how to do it. It ain't rocket science.

I forgot to mention, when turning the capstan wheel, make sure you aren't inserting the tool too far in and digging into the wood of the body.