New Stingray owner....Question

[Andy Martin]

I've just bought a new Stingray HS from The Bass Centre in London. It's a wonderful sounding bass but I have one concern.

The output seems low. Putting it into an ABM500, even with the gain on the amp turned to maximum and playing quite hard, the needle in the VU meter barely moves. I also tried it into an Iamp800 with the same result. I could only get the second of 4 input level LEDs to light. With my passive P bass I have no trouble at all overdriving the input of either amp with minimum EQ. Tried putting in a new battery but no change.

Is this normal? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[tombboy]

Ooer! Normally, any SR would push the input of amps to the limit. 'Tis the active pre amp.
I'd measure it against any decent passive bass, ie: precision and if there is still a noticeable difference, get it back to the dealer asap and let him try to figure it out.
Mind you... i'm no tecchie! And the tecchies on here WORK for BP!!!
Open floor one feels.......

 

[Bill]

Check the battery! That sounds like a dying battery. I'm about 80% sure that if you replace it with a new one, that Stingray will move mountains again.

 

[cdb]

I've just bought a new Stingray HS from The Bass Centre in London. It's a wonderful sounding bass but I have one concern.

The output seems low. Putting it into an ABM500, even with the gain on the amp turned to maximum and playing quite hard, the needle in the VU meter barely moves. I also tried it into an Iamp800 with the same result. I could only get the second of 4 input level LEDs to light. With my passive P bass I have no trouble at all overdriving the input of either amp with minimum EQ. Tried putting in a new battery but no change.

Is this normal? Thanks in advance for any help.

Not familiar with ashdowns.. is there a passive/active input? If you changed the battery, make sure it is seated correctly...Rays are high output.

 

[Mobay45]

Two other things to consider other than the battery are to make sure that the contacts in the battery box are making contact with the battery terminals and also there have been a very few instances of a wire coming loose from the battery box.

That said, I believe like everyone else that this is a problem that stems from the fact that the battery is not supplying power to the preamp.

I would most likely advise you to take it back to the store and have them check it out to avoid compromising your warranty.

 

[jongitarz]

Yep...Check the battery, and the contacts in the battery box.

 

[tkarter]

Turn the gain down after you get the battery changed or the battery box fixed.

It is going to smoke any passive bass you ever plugged in IMHO.



tk

 

[Andy Martin]

Thanks for your replies. Yes the battery has got to be the main suspect. I did replace the battery with a new one, still sealed in the wrapper, which the guy who runs the practise space gave me, but it is a cheap no-brand battery and I didn't have time to fiddle properly. Also I noticed that there don't seem to be any polarity markings on the battery holder. I assume it doesn't matter.

I'll get a new battery tonight and try it again.

 

[syciprider]

If you were plugging into the active jack then try switching to the passive one.

 

[bdgotoh]

Also I noticed that there don't seem to be any polarity markings on the battery holder. I assume it doesn't matter.

Mine has a little + symbol on the "door" that you open to slide the battery in, so I'm pretty sure the orientation does matter. On my 2005 Sterling, when the bass is face down the + battery pole is "up", if that makes any sense.

Good luck, I hope you get some volume soon.

 

[Andy Martin]

If you were plugging into the active jack then try switching to the passive one.

I assume you mean on the Iamp. Yes I tried it. I also tried switching to passive mode on the Ashdown using the Active/passive switch. Same result.

I'm gonna have to have a good look at it when I get more time tonight. I only used it for the first time with the band last night. As others have said I expected a high output that should fry a passive input.

 

[LowDownDave]

Also I noticed that there don't seem to be any polarity markings on the battery holder. I assume it doesn't matter.

There should DEFINITELY be polarity markings on the battery box. As mentioned previously, there is a + one one side of the box to show the correct battery installation orientation. You should be able to tell if the battery is at fault because without a working battery the tone knobs should be non-functional (and I assume the selector switch would be dead as well).

If this is the case and the battery is new, check if it rattles around in the battery box (loose fit) and you might need to do what I do and place a folded piece of paper behind the battery before closing the box. Works a treat for a solid, problem-free connection. I've found many different battery brands (and even batteries of the SAME brand) are all different sizes, so some are too loose and make a poor connection, some are too tight to even fit in the box, while others are just right! (Goldilocks approved)

Good luck!

 

[dlloyd]

I have real trouble seeing the polarity markers, particularly in our dingy practice studio.

 

[roballanson]

Once you get it sorted - defo check the polarity is right and no wires loose - stand clear of that Ashdown!!!! Trust me on that....

(also any real problems and Dean at the Bass Centre should sort them...nice chap too)

 

[shastaband]

Many people on this thread have commented on the supposedly high output of Stingrays. My Stingrays (one SR4, one SR5, both manufactured in 2006) have more than sufficient output to drive my Eden and GK heads, but neither puts out as much signal as my 1981 G&L L-1000, which is a passive bass with a single large humbucker. My 1966 P-Bass has at least as much output signal as the Stingrays. That said, the Stingray output is much cleaner and more "hi-fi"--higher highs and lower lows than any of my other basses. But still, the G&L is considerably louder. Good luck with your Stingray--I love mine!

 

[strummer]

Many people on this thread have commented on the supposedly high output of Stingrays. My Stingrays (one SR4, one SR5, both manufactured in 2006) have more than sufficient output to drive my Eden and GK heads, but neither puts out as much signal as my 1981 G&L L-1000, which is a passive bass with a single large humbucker. My 1966 P-Bass has at least as much output signal as the Stingrays. That said, the Stingray output is much cleaner and more "hi-fi"--higher highs and lower lows than any of my other basses. But still, the G&L is considerably louder. Good luck with your Stingray--I love mine!

A Bongo can drive headphones

 

[shastaband]

A Bongo can drive headphones

Wow, that's some kind of output level. What brand and model of headphones ? Do you know the impedance and sensitivity specs for those phones?

 

[Andy Martin]

Many people on this thread have commented on the supposedly high output of Stingrays. My Stingrays (one SR4, one SR5, both manufactured in 2006) have more than sufficient output to drive my Eden and GK heads, but neither puts out as much signal as my 1981 G&L L-1000, which is a passive bass with a single large humbucker. My 1966 P-Bass has at least as much output signal as the Stingrays. That said, the Stingray output is much cleaner and more "hi-fi"--higher highs and lower lows than any of my other basses. But still, the G&L is considerably louder. Good luck with your Stingray--I love mine!

It's interesting you should say that. I've tried it again with another new battery. The battery holder seems to be designed in such a way that the battery will only fit in one way so I assume the polarity is correct.

It seems to have a lower output than my passive precision. I can easily drive the input level into the red with the P but not with the Stingray, and that's using the passive input. So why have an attenuated input on the amp for active basses?

Does anyone know what the output voltage should be so I can measure what I'm actually getting out of it.

 

[Nickytwister]

Andy,
Just to be sure put a new Duracell in there - don't trust anything less. I don't think it will go more than one (the right way) round.
If the problem persists you could call the Bass Centre tech Chris Ward on 020 7247 1689 but ultimately take the bass back. There won't be a problem which can't be sorted!
Once the bass is cool try running your ashdown completely flat ie passive input, no pre-shape and no eq. It took me a while to get to that point and it's so liberating not to have the amp's eq to fiddle with - the bass has got so much cut and boost that amp eq potentially just muddies the water.
Give it a try and good luck!
Nick x

www.myspace.com/nickytwister

 

[Andy Martin]

Andy,
Just to be sure put a new Duracell in there - don't trust anything less. I don't think it will go more than one (the right way) round.
If the problem persists you could call the Bass Centre tech Chris Ward on 020 7247 1689 but ultimately take the bass back. There won't be a problem which can't be sorted!
Once the bass is cool try running your ashdown completely flat ie passive input, no pre-shape and no eq. It took me a while to get to that point and it's so liberating not to have the amp's eq to fiddle with - the bass has got so much cut and boost that amp eq potentially just muddies the water.
Give it a try and good luck!
Nick x

www.myspace.com/nickytwister

You must be Nick ex of The Bass centre. I spoke to you a few times over the years.

Yes I've put a Duracell in. It seemed to improve matters a bit compared to the no-brand in there before. Maybe I'm expecting too much output, but I'll give Chris Ward a ring.

I always try to use minimum eq on the amp. As you say there is so much available on the bass itself, but it's difficult to avoid the temptation to fiddle on the amp

Thanks for your advice and everyone else who posted.