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levite

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
6
OK, I goofed!
I have 2009 JP6 and I removed all my strings (to oil my fret board). Right after I removed them I immediately remembered the hassles with former Floyd Rose setups. I have it set back up pretty close to what it was but its not quite right. And, the factory must have a way to doing this that is way more time effective than what I did.

Anyway... What I'm now looking for is a step by step setup the factory uses when they do an initial setup.

Please no scoldings, I've beat myself up enough.

Thanks for the help

Rog
 

TheShreddinHand

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Joined
Jan 12, 2010
Messages
599
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
If you didn't change the string gauge or tuning from whatever you had it at, then just keeping tuning and re-tuning until the bridge returns to the setpoint it was at prior. It will take time and a lot of re-tuning but it'll get back to it's setpoint.
 

levite

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
6
Shred,

Thanks for the quick reply.

Thats exactly the process I used (so far I've only broken 1 string). Prior to starting this the bridge tail was angled up about 3/32" above the body. Now it's about 1/16". 3/32" is what I'm trying to get back to since thats where it was and it stayed in tune really well.

I'll tweak it some more when I get home from work. But right now even during minor trem movement most of the strings are going out of tune in different directions. i.e. the low E returns sharp, the G returns flat.
 

Lou

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Jan 23, 2003
Messages
1,356
Location
MA
Ah, the floating trem. The frustrations of many.

Get your guitar in tune. If your bridge plate is not parallel to the body, you must adjust the trem springs behind the back plate. Then check your neck relief and adjust your truss rod wheel accordingly. Then set your action with the bridge saddles. All along this process, you will be retuning repeatedly. Be prepared to repeat the spring step as well.
 

levite

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
6
Ive read in other forums that the tail of the bridge needs to be angled up slightly. Should it parallel to the body?
 

levite

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
6
Thanks Lou! I'm also aiming to have my tuning machines at 90 degrees when the guitar is at full pitch (the way it was originally). Does it sound like I'm headed in the right direction?

The saddles also contact the saddle cover. Perhaps I just need to dig in and get this thing setup correctly.

r
 
Last edited:

levite

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
6
All,
I just spoke to Billy in "setup" at MM. He told that as long as I'm not changing string gauges and the original setup was good all I need to do is:

String the guitar with all 6 strings ensuring there is no slack in the strings (bringing the strings straight through the tuning peg). Then bring it up to pitch, the bridge plate should be parallel with the body, all should be good.
 

TheShreddinHand

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2010
Messages
599
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
All,
I just spoke to Billy in "setup" at MM. He told that as long as I'm not changing string gauges and the original setup was good all I need to do is:

String the guitar with all 6 strings ensuring there is no slack in the strings (bringing the strings straight through the tuning peg). Then bring it up to pitch, the bridge plate should be parallel with the body, all should be good.

That's what I said! :D
 
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