Project Sublhoette

[Jack FFR1846]

I've ping ponged back and fourth over selling or modifying my Sub 1 for some time now. If it had sold, I could simply move on and spend more money with Pete. After my comparison (see my post) between the Musicman Silo, the Sterling Silo and my Sub-1 down at DuBaldo's last week, I decided that I still didn't know. Last night, I pulled the trigger and thought I'd do a mild change. Fine sand the Sub-1 finish and then wetsand and polish it. I didn't know if it would work, so I started on the back. I used an automotive sponge (really a rubberish block) that I've used to paint my Cobra. This keeps a nice flat surface so the finish doesn't see "hand" impressions when sanding.

Before pictures showing the back of the pickguard (so I don't forget where wires go) and the cavities once the neck was off and pickguard and all other hardware was out.

 

[Jack FFR1846]

On to sanding. Very quickly, I realized that the finish is think and fairly soft and would not be flattened to simply polish, but was coming off. I continued the sanding with the thought that I'd use the edge of the guitar's contour as the break point and actually keep the edge finish in place.

Note the sanding "sponge" in the sandpaper

This was done in a progressive 220 to 400.

 

[Jack FFR1846]

Ok....for you squeemish guys, go do something else and don't read ahead. If you're adventurous or just saying "jack's nuts, what could he do next", here we go. I figured that if I'm taking finish off, I might as well put in the one thing that I really wanted into the body of this guitar. (no, not Sara Michelle Geller).... a body contour. Out to the garage with the body and a stake neck. Looking at pictures of JP's and Silhouettes, I decided that the end points on the body would be the edge of the trem and the edge of the lower hum. I used my power belt sander (shown) with whatever course grit was on it (I think 60) and went to it, checking periodically how it looked and "fit".

Note the progression of the cut....deeper, deeper. The final pic shows some hand sanding (with the sponge again) to remove the course grit marks. I did a bit of rounding going onto the main body and very little to radius it onto the edge. I did some subtle sanding to get just a bit of extra depth near the center of the line, coming onto the main face (so it's just a bit concave).

I'm working out coloring and type of finish at this point, doing lots of reading. I'm thinking right now about doing a clear lacquer first to protect what's there.....smoothing the edge as I go, then possibly an amber center and dark red edge burst (more like an Al than a Silhouette) and then finishing off with clear lacquer and lots of wet sanding. Still need to find transparent colors of the stuff.

I also plan to build a hardwood pickguard and need to hit the hardwood store to see what's there and what I'll use. I'm thinking of glueing 2 layers for strength and then going with just a volume and 3 way switch. I will likely put in a push/pull volume to coil split the neck and no tone. The switch will go in the tone knob location.

I also plan to "unfinish" the neck.....a bit different from anything I've seen. The front and flat part of the back will be untouched, but the surface surrounding these will be unfinished and cleared with a line as my Axis has before the unfinished neck area. I'm not starting that till I get a bit farther on the body.

jack

 

[paranoid70]

Awesome bro. I have been toying with the idea to do the same by adding a forearm contour on my SUB1. I am 'decent' with wood working, but I don't think I trust myself to get the contour just right. Seeing your pics does give me some encouragement. I love the SUB1, but can't really get on with it too much with the flat body. I am really interested to see how your project develops.

I wonder though if you would want to make the contour angle a little more subtle. Just a thought.

Rock on my friend. And keep us up to date.

 

[luv]

awesome jack! you're doing what i've been toying with for awhile now, but ultimately wasn't sure i wanted to take on the task. very cool.

 

[Jack FFR1846]

I wondered about the forearm contour. I've had a Jackson that was nothing more than a flat surface sanded in at an extreme angle....and have played the JP and Silo. With all of them, there were differences. With this, I'd sand a bit, pull it out of the vice and place it as if I were playing. This angle came from what felt most comfortable to me. It's steeper than a JP.

jack

 

[paranoid70]

"This angle came from what felt most comfortable to me."

Certainly can't argue with that!

 

[ShaneV]

You can't quit now, silo-style horn bevels are a necessity!

 

[luv]

You can't quit now, silo-style horn bevels are a necessity!

and body/belly contour!

 

[Sticky1973]

....possibly an amber center and dark red edge burst.... and then finishing off with clear lacquer and lots of wet sanding...

Yummy!

Again, the true potential of the Sub is being realised, and with it you bring your own personal slant on things. I love it!

Are you thinking of a nice figured maple pick guard?

Excellent thread, jack, classy.

 

[GWDavis28]

WOW Jack is all I can say man, looks good so far.

What color you gonna paint it???

Glenn |B)

 

[Jack FFR1846]

I had not even thought about the belly contour..... I will say that I based the belly contour on my Axis (ASS....they're the same) rather than a silo/JP type. I again worked it until it felt right, roughly based on the Axis.

Following the look of the Axis, my goal was for the guitar back/contour edge to be straight through the majority of the cut. Came out pretty straight with the rough power cut and some 220 and the sponge got it to where I am actually happy with it.

The finishing of the contour onto the body is WAY different from the way the square bodied Axis it. This was an exercise to keep the curves of the contour edge with the body to flow smoothly. The black remaining on the edge helped a LOT in figuring that out on the outside edge curve. The bevel to body back was easier because it is just a simple angle.

This part of the project let me know that there is NO WAY that I'm doing horn contours. I've picked a color but am going to leave that until I actually get it on the guitar.

For the pick guard, I'm not sure what I'll use for wood type. I'm going to go look and pick what I like and think will match.

jack

 

[jamminjim]

Jack - looks great - so that's what the wood looks like under there - nice forearm relief you've done - how about a little sculpting on the forarms/horns? -

 

[luv]

looking good!

i would think that the horns would be a difficult task to do by hand.

 

[paranoid70]

This part of the project let me know that there is NO WAY that I'm doing horn contours.

It's looking great. Yeah, don't press your luck with horn contours. Even the 20th Silo doesn't have horn contours, and that's the best guitar ever.

 

[YtseJam92]

Wow. Lookin' good.

 

[NorM]

This is a really cool thread. I can't wait to see the finished product. That's a nice lookin piece of wood you got there. have you thought about just staining it? Also, what's in store for the neck?

 

[DrGonzo5150]

Wow. Lookin' good.

+1

Love the mods.

 

[Jack FFR1846]

This is a really cool thread. I can't wait to see the finished product. That's a nice lookin piece of wood you got there. have you thought about just staining it? Also, what's in store for the neck?

I'm working on a stain now. As I told the guy at the paint store (long time guitarist who was very scared that I was doing this ), if I don't like it, I can always sand it down again and start over. The body appears to be a one piece, which is surprising to me. The poplar isn't absorbing the stain much at all, so we'll see.

The plan for the neck is to go natural but with a bit of a different treatment up at the headstock in order to not touch the lettering on the front or the SN sticker on the back.

jack

 

[threeminutesboy]

Nice work

Can't wait to see the final result !!!