Proud Owner of a Sweet JP6, Need Help and Have a Question

[Josh O]

Well, I'm back into the EBMM family. I used to own an Axis a few years back, loved the guitar, hated the Floyd. Really impressed with the build quality of the guitar though, great stuff EBMM is putting out. Saw Pet at the DuBaldo clinic last month, fell in love with the Pet model. Now I'm a proud owner of a very sweet used JP6 in white sparkle courtesy of Pete and Nick (thanks guys! ). I do have one question and one self inflicted emergent problem.

First the question:

Should the trem be floating parallel with the body on this guitar? I put a fresh set of 10s on and it's dipping back somewhat, should it be parallel and if so, what do I adjust?

Now the emergency:

Like a damn fool, I switched the stock strap buttons out with a set of Schaller strap locks that I had on my G&L S-500. I used the stock JP screws, put the strap button on the upper horn, beautiful fit. Went to do the same to the bottom strap button and the damn screw won't tighten, it just spins and when I backed the screw out, some saw dust came with it. I can't get it to tighten and the strap button spins freely and the screw will pull out a little so it's obvious I stripped the hole a little with the stock screw. Dammit all why didn't I just leave it alone!! The screws that came with the strap locks are the same diameter and are acutally shorter so they won't help. What can I do to fix it? Switch to Dunlop strap locks as the screw is a little bigger and hope that it rethreads nicely? Very leary about that. Dab a little carpenter glue in the hole and then thread the screw in? Put a piece of a wooden matchstick in the hole as a little shim and then rethread the screw in? Please help!!!!!!!!

 

[Larry]

For you second question put a toothpick in the hole with some carpenters glue and let it dry over night then re-drill the hole. What you have done is striped the hole. and what you are doing is basically making it a new piece of wood in order to re screw the strap in.

As for the second problem. I belive if it has the piezo it should sit flush to the guitar body but if it is a non piezo it can float. Not 100% on that but its what i have heard about the Luke model.

 

[Norrin Radd]

Well, I'm back into the EBMM family. I used to own an Axis a few years back, loved the guitar, hated the Floyd. Really impressed with the build quality of the guitar though, great stuff EBMM is putting out. Saw Pet at the DuBaldo clinic last month, fell in love with the Pet model. Now I'm a proud owner of a very sweet used JP6 in white sparkle courtesy of Pete and Nick (thanks guys! ). I do have one question and one self inflicted emergent problem.

First the question:

Should the trem be floating parallel with the body on this guitar? I put a fresh set of 10s on and it's dipping back somewhat, should it be parallel and if so, what do I adjust?

Now the emergency:

Like a damn fool, I switched the stock strap buttons out with a set of Schaller strap locks that I had on my G&L S-500. I used the stock JP screws, put the strap button on the upper horn, beautiful fit. Went to do the same to the bottom strap button and the damn screw won't tighten, it just spins and when I backed the screw out, some saw dust came with it. I can't get it to tighten and the strap button spins freely and the screw will pull out a little so it's obvious I stripped the hole a little with the stock screw. Dammit all why didn't I just leave it alone!! The screws that came with the strap locks are the same diameter and are acutally shorter so they won't help. What can I do to fix it? Switch to Dunlop strap locks as the screw is a little bigger and hope that it rethreads nicely? Very leary about that. Dab a little carpenter glue in the hole and then thread the screw in? Put a piece of a wooden matchstick in the hole as a little shim and then rethread the screw in? Please help!!!!!!!!

1. The trem should be where YOU want it to be. I like mine to be parallel. To get yours this way, try tightening the spring claw, but just turn a little bit (actually be sure to count with each 1/4 turn - that's what I do - it's easy to mark with phillips screw heads) just so you know where the orginal starting point was. You will need to detune a little bit before you tighten the screws, then tune to pitch and see where the trem sits. Do this over and over until it sits where you want it to.

2. As far as the strap lock hole - I like the shim method - but make sure you do it right. If I were a gigging musician - I'd let a professional repair guy fix it - should only be about $25 or so. My two pennies.

Good Luck and congrats on an awesome guitar!

 

[Norrin Radd]

For you second question put a toothpick in the hole with some carpenters glue and let it dry over night then re-drill the hole. What you have done is striped the hole. and what you are doing is basically making it a new piece of wood in order to re screw the strap in.

As for the second problem. I belive if it has the piezo it should sit flush to the guitar body but if it is a non piezo it can float. Not 100% on that but its what i have heard about the Luke model.

Well the JP ALWAYS floats by design - it never sits flush on the body, but in my experience, it sets up the best with the trem parallel.

 

[Josh O]

Hi Larry,

I have a piece of toothpick already in hand, gonna grab my carpenters glue from my workbench.

As far as the trem, it's a non-piezo model and other guitars I've had that had floating trems (McInturff, PRS, G&L), they did sit parallel with the body. I'm just not sure if it's supposed to with the Pet.

 

[Larry]

the trem is pretty much however you prefer it because remember when all is over it is yours and has to play the way you like it no matter what anyone else says about it. It is your instrument and it must fit you. Just make sure you do a good job with the glue other wise it migh just fall to the floor also the best way to fix it would be to re drill the hole and fill it with a dowling rod (SP?). You can find them at Home Depot the long round sticks find one to fit the diameter of the hole and cut to length and glue and you have a brand new strap hole practically

 

[SteveB]

I believe the only difference between the piezo and non-piezo bridge is whether or not the crystals are actually in the saddles, and of course the presence of the piezo wiring.

(i.e. it's the exact same trem bridge and saddles for either model)

I find that mine plays best when the trem is level/parallel. Just a few turns of the screw that holds the tremolo claw, and you'll be in good shape. Remember to turn the screw a little and then re-tune to pitch before checking for level.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

I thought I put a fresh set of 10s on it before the clinic

Bring it in to DMC tomorrow night and I will make it play like a sessie bish.


It should be parallel front/back and side/side.

 

[Josh O]

The trem is sitting pretty close to parallel now, very nice. Let's just say my tuning by ear let me down a little but my Strobostomp led the way to perfection and she's sitting pretty now. I put a piece of wooden toothpick in the hole (thanks Yankee Candle) with some carpenters glue on it, it didn't fill the hole out completely but it filled in the majority. I did sink the screw back into it (with the strap button obviously) as to make sure the toothpick stayed in while the glue dries and it tightened right up. I'll let it sit overnight before I attempt to hang it off my idiot body.

 

[Josh O]

Hey Pete, she's playing like a screamin' demon man!!! Thanks again for putting it aside for me, I should've known Saturday what the inevitable outcome would be and just bought it that day! I've been GASing for one since the clinic and I finally had it with my strat Friday night (I'm just not a single coil guy and damn that Leo Fender for putting the selector switch where he did!!).

 

[beej]

Josh- another way to go on the strap locks is to buy replacement screws that are the same length as the originals.

I've filled a few holes in my time ( ) but found getting a better fitting screw that works with my strap locks and matches the original EB ones to be a better bet in the long run.

 

[Josh O]

Toothpick trick seems to have worked (knock on wood, no pun intended) although I might eventually switch out the screw as beej suggested. Damn I love this guitar, it just feels so comfortable and sounds awesome. I really wasn't sure if I would like the tone of the middle position but I think it's kind of cool, kinda get that strat feel out of it. All around I'm extremely happy.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

Josh, Saturday/Monday... as long as it finally ended up where you wanted it that's all that matters Enjoy the guitar, it's an awesome one!

 

[Josh O]

That's true Pete, I just knew Saturday when I walked out the door that it was gonna be mine! I've been driving Brian crazy at work ever since the clinic about wanting one, wait until he finds out I actually got one, he's just gonna shake his head. I'm still trying to tell him he needs a Bongo bass!!

 

[Chad]

It's not uncommon for the Schaller straplock screws to be too small to fill the existing holes. I guess the toothpick method will work, but that just seems a little too ghetto to me. I always dowel and redrill the holes. That works great and makes for a clean, professional result.

 

[beej]

I use the Schallers too. The screws that come with it are a tad too small and a tad too short, and the head of the original EB screws is usually a tad too large (sometimes they fit).

Toothpick/sawdust + gue I find ends up slipping over time. Doweling/redrilling definitely works but it's a bit of a pain.

Easier solution: I went to Home Depot and found screws as long/wide as the EB screws, but with a head as small as the Schaller screws. Presto.

 

[jeffrey]

As other's have said, as close to paralell as possible for the trem is optimal in my experience.