saddles adjustment on jp

[Phazer]

Hi all
I've changed string gauge today so I did a quick setup.
Since I couldn't seem to get my action right I lowered the saddles of the strings that seemed to be too high.
This weekend I'm taking my guitar to a tech to have a push pull pot installed, so I'll have him do a complete setup aswell.
But I wanted to know which is the correct hight for the saddles?

 

[beej]

There isn't really a correct height for the saddles, per se.

Once your truss rod is correctly adjusted (and trem if needed) the saddle heights will be adjusted so that you get the lowest possible action with the least buzzing. Basically, they'll be set to whatever they need to be set to.

 

[Phazer]

ok thanks.
do you think that using a long ruler is a good way to check the neck?

 

[MusicManJP6]

Yes! Finally! You are having the push/pull pot installed for coil splitting! You will love it.

As for the saddles... Beej nailed it. And make sure you maintain the radius of the neck when messing with the saddles! You can check to make sure your saddles match the neck radius by measuring the string height for each string at the 12th fret. The high E side can be just a hair closer - that is how it will play the best IMO.

You can check neck relief by fretting the 1st fret and 16th fret and lightly touching the string to the frets around the 8th fret or so. You want to be able to just slip a playing card under there - we aren't talking about a whole lot of relief here.

I went through my JP about two months ago and gave it a full setup (string change, truss rod tweak, intonation, saddle adjustment, etc). It helps tremendously to meticulously setup your guitar as perfect as possible! No one knows how YOUR guitar should be setup better than you (stole that line from jonguitarz).

Let us know how you like the split coils! Your gonna die when you first plug it up...

 

[Phazer]

Yes! Finally! You are having the push/pull pot installed for coil splitting! You will love it.

As for the saddles... Beej nailed it. And make sure you maintain the radius of the neck when messing with the saddles! You can check to make sure your saddles match the neck radius by measuring the string height for each string at the 12th fret. The high E side can be just a hair closer - that is how it will play the best IMO.

You can check neck relief by fretting the 1st fret and 16th fret and lightly touching the string to the frets around the 8th fret or so. You want to be able to just slip a playing card under there - we aren't talking about a whole lot of relief here.

I went through my JP about two months ago and gave it a full setup (string change, truss rod tweak, intonation, saddle adjustment, etc). It helps tremendously to meticulously setup your guitar as perfect as possible! No one knows how YOUR guitar should be setup better than you (stole that line from jonguitarz).

Let us know how you like the split coils! Your gonna die when you first plug it up...

Hi Adam!!
It's been a while!
Yes, I was the first to gas for push pull, but it took me a long time to have it done
I'll let you know as soon as I get it done.
As for the radius, how should I calculate it?

 

[beej]

No calculation necessary. When you're measuring string height from top of fret to string, just make sure it's consistent for each string. As Adam says, you can set the thin strings a little closer to the board. Your saddle heights will then reflect the radius of the neck.

FYI, I like to do this with a capo at the first fret. Eliminates nut height as a factor.

 

[MusicManJP6]

FYI, I like to do this with a capo at the first fret. Eliminates nut height as a factor.

Never thought of that.... good idea!

 

[Phazer]

I don't really know how to measure the hight of my action, so what I did was I lowered all the saddles so that they rested on the bridge, then starting from the 1st string I starded to turn the little screws a couple of turns, untill I liked the height, then I did the same thing with the other saddles.
So I don't know if the follow the radius of the neck, but this way I have all the saddles more or less at the same height, and just lowered the ones that felt a bit to high

 

[beej]

Sounds good. I'd suggest picking up a small metal ruler or gauge in the future, makes it a little easier. Something that has increments of 1/64" or so.

 

[MusicManJP6]

I don't really know how to measure the hight of my action, so what I did was I lowered all the saddles so that they rested on the bridge, then starting from the 1st string I starded to turn the little screws a couple of turns, untill I liked the height, then I did the same thing with the other saddles.
So I don't know if the follow the radius of the neck, but this way I have all the saddles more or less at the same height, and just lowered the ones that felt a bit to high

I was hoping you wouldn't do this... You can do it this way, but it's not the easy way, and if you are not meticulous then your saddles can get way out of whack.

To measure the string height just find a nice metal ruler with 32nd marks for the first inch (64ths would be even better). Place the end of the ruler (with the ruler sticking up from the fretboard so the marks on the ruler are parallel with the strings) on the 11th and 12th fret so it is level and check the height from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string at the 12th fret. Placing the ruler on the far side of the string from you makes it easier to read. Just do this for all strings and make sure each string is the same height at the 12th fret. Adjust this height at the saddle until it is consitent for all strings (or just slightly lower on the high E side).

Once all the saddles are adjusted accordingly you should be able to lower your action a bit more because all the strings are the same distance away from the frets from nut to saddle. Make sense?

And since you changed string gauges and messed with your saddle heights it may be a good time to adjust your intonation - but only if it is setup the way you want! Making any changes after the intonation adjustment will affect the accuracy.

 

[Phazer]

I was hoping you wouldn't do this... You can do it this way, but it's not the easy way, and if you are not meticulous then your saddles can get way out of whack.

To measure the string height just find a nice metal ruler with 32nd marks for the first inch (64ths would be even better). Place the end of the ruler (with the ruler sticking up from the fretboard so the marks on the ruler are parallel with the strings) on the 11th and 12th fret so it is level and check the height from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string at the 12th fret. Placing the ruler on the far side of the string from you makes it easier to read. Just do this for all strings and make sure each string is the same height at the 12th fret. Adjust this height at the saddle until it is consitent for all strings (or just slightly lower on the high E side).

Once all the saddles are adjusted accordingly you should be able to lower your action a bit more because all the strings are the same distance away from the frets from nut to saddle. Make sense?

And since you changed string gauges and messed with your saddle heights it may be a good time to adjust your intonation - but only if it is setup the way you want! Making any changes after the intonation adjustment will affect the accuracy.

Thanks, I already did the intonation.
I really like how the guitar plays now.
In any case, on the 11th of february I'm going to England for a week, so in the mean while I'm leaving the guitar at the tech's so that he can put the push pull pot in, and I'll also have him check if the setup is good, even though I think it is..haven't really found a good way to check the truss rod, there always seems to be a gap between the 7th fret and the low E string, so I guess I'll have to find a long ruler and see if the neck is straigh, even though I think it is, because I can't hear any buzzing, except for a bit on the low E string but I'm guessing that's normal since it's a thick string

 

[MusicManJP6]

I guess it could be said that the low E string has the least amount of tension so it would tend to vibrate a larger distance. Don't worry too much about buzz when it is not plugged into an amp. You'll go crazy trying to alleviate all traces of buzz that way and you'll end up with your action higher than you want it! Been there... done that. If you can't hear it when you plug up to your amp then don't worry about it. Glad you are happy with your setup! If you think it plays good then don't waste your money having your tech check it. His ideal guitar setup is most likely different than yours...

 

[Phazer]

I guess it could be said that the low E string has the least amount of tension so it would tend to vibrate a larger distance. Don't worry too much about buzz when it is not plugged into an amp. You'll go crazy trying to alleviate all traces of buzz that way and you'll end up with your action higher than you want it! Been there... done that. If you can't hear it when you plug up to your amp then don't worry about it. Glad you are happy with your setup! If you think it plays good then don't waste your money having your tech check it. His ideal guitar setup is most likely different than yours...

I'm playing right now and I really feel like the guitar is actually mine, everything is like I want it to be, so I guess you're right
how do you check the neck relief?

 

[MusicManJP6]

You can check neck relief by fretting the 1st fret and 16th fret and lightly touching the string to the frets around the 8th fret or so. You want to be able to just slip a playing card under there - we aren't talking about a whole lot of relief here.

It sounds like you're OK though if you can play without excessive buzz.

 

[Phazer]

It sounds like you're OK though if you can play without excessive buzz.

ok so the neck is also fine
I can finally say I have a perfect setup
man how I like to play this guitar, can't wait for push pull!!!

 

[MusicManJP6]

A good setup makes all the difference in the world! These are precision instruments so giving it a thorough and meticulous setup is worth the time and effort.

Listen to my push/pull YouTube video again to get yourself psyched for that mod. I can't say enough good things about it! It should be a standard option IMO. The split coil tones in the bridge and neck positions are very surprising from such hot pickups. They are not harsh or muddy at all. The pushed middle position with both humbuckers on is a killer tone too.

You still playing through a Mesa Dual Rec? I recently sold my Stiletto Ace for a DC-3 short head and Recto 1x12 cab. The DCs really allow the guitar's tone to come through. You can just feel the strings better. It really has great 'string separation' as they call it. It also has an amazing amount of note definition in chords. Very cool amp and I only gave $400 shipped for the head! The cab was another $250, but you can't beat the tone for what I have in it...

 

[Phazer]

A good setup makes all the difference in the world! These are precision instruments so giving it a thorough and meticulous setup is worth the time and effort.

Listen to my push/pull YouTube video again to get yourself psyched for that mod. I can't say enough good things about it! It should be a standard option IMO. The split coil tones in the bridge and neck positions are very surprising from such hot pickups. They are not harsh or muddy at all. The pushed middle position with both humbuckers on is a killer tone too.

You still playing through a Mesa Dual Rec? I recently sold my Stiletto Ace for a DC-3 short head and Recto 1x12 cab. The DCs really allow the guitar's tone to come through. You can just feel the strings better. It really has great 'string separation' as they call it. It also has an amazing amount of note definition in chords. Very cool amp and I only gave $400 shipped for the head! The cab was another $250, but you can't beat the tone for what I have in it...

I checked out your vids once again quite recently!
Now I'm playing through a roadster head and a 2x12 vertical recto cab

 

[MusicManJP6]

Wow... That'll get the job done! I used to have a Roadster but I felt that it was just too much amp for me. My band broke up the week before I received the amp... So a high dollar professional amp with no band is just silly.

 

[Phazer]

Wow... That'll get the job done! I used to have a Roadster but I felt that it was just too much amp for me. My band broke up the week before I received the amp... So a high dollar professional amp with no band is just silly.

Yes, I know what you mean
So, how long befor we see a FS thread for your DC3?

 

[MusicManJP6]

Yes, I know what you mean
So, how long befor we see a FS thread for your DC3?

I really hope this amp is the one... Only time will tell, but so far so good!