SBMM LK100D Bridge Saddle Question

[CantankerousOne]

Good morning...sorry if this is a noob kinda question, but I am indeed a noob here.

So I'm a "deck the trem" sorta fellow. First thing I did with my LK100D is put in more springs so the bridge sits flush with the body, slapped on some .10s (my preference) and raised the bridge saddles to compensate. I have things set up to where I like, so all is good with that.

I did notice however, that the saddle adjustment screws seem to be at the upper limit of their travel - they still seem to be able to raise and lower, so I don't think they are out of the grooves, but the bottom ends of the saddle adjustment screws "move a bit" e.g. when I turn the top with an allen wrench, the bottom part of the screws kinda wiggle a little a bit. So instead of rotating on a relatively fixed point, it's more of a lunar orbit. Does that make sense? Hope I am explaining it right...

Anyway, I don't really notice any intonation / stability issues, but I have never seen this on any of my PRS / Fender / Ibanez trem setups. Do I need to get longer adjustment screws? Do I need to get new / different saddles? If so, where?

Thanks!

 

[sanderhermans]

Or if you run out of adjustement space at the bridge. A small neck shim will give you more room for adjusting the bridge....

 

[CantankerousOne]

Or if you run out of adjustement space at the bridge. A small neck shim will give you more room for adjusting the bridge....

Neck shim seems like something I would like to stay away from...so is there any "official" place to source new compatible screws? Or maybe some of the larger "block" style saddles would be better and allow more adjustment? Where would I get these?

I cannot imagine I am the first person to have asked this.

 

[sanderhermans]

Neck shim is no big deal. Way better option than non original sadles imo. But if you really want to know you can allways contact ebmm customer service and ask them if they have some screws or parts for you....

 

[look_at_her]

...so is there any "official" place to source new compatible screws? Or maybe some of the larger "block" style saddles would be better and allow more adjustment? Where would I get these?

if you have any questions regarding your SBMM stuff , ask this guy :
View Profile: SBMM - Ernie Ball Forums

Hope all will be sorted out easily
Regards

 

[Johnny Alien]

Neck shim is no big deal. Way better option than non original sadles imo. But if you really want to know you can allways contact ebmm customer service and ask them if they have some screws or parts for you....

His problem is that he has raised the saddles very high and is unable to raise them any more because the screws are at their max height. A shim would raise the neck a bit making him need to raise the saddles even more. Shimming is an answer when the saddles are all the way down and you need to lower them more. In his case different screws or different saddles are definitely the answer.

To the OP: I just sold a set of the EBMM solid saddles but happen to have another set now if you are interested. Just hit me up via PM.

 

[sanderhermans]

His problem is that he has raised the saddles very high and is unable to raise them any more because the screws are at their max height. A shim would raise the neck a bit making him need to raise the saddles even more. Shimming is an answer when the saddles are all the way down and you need to lower them more. In his case different screws or different saddles are definitely the answer.

To the OP: I just sold a set of the EBMM solid saddles but happen to have another set now if you are interested. Just hit me up via PM.

Uhm. Not true. Shimming can work both ways. When you shim at the neck heel the action will lowerm when you shim at te front of the 6 bolt, the action will become higher. So it can work both ways. Putting the sadles higher than the normal screw length might bring new issues as the trem will react differently.

Try google for neck shim pictures. This will clear alot up. In this case a shim at the front 2 bolts of the neck joint would raise the action and the sadles could be lowered again.

 

[CantankerousOne]

Thanks Johnny and Sander for your replies. I would rather not take the neck off of the guitar if I don't have to. I would think, geometry-wise, if I shimmed the back of the neck, then the angle of the neck would be pointed down more at the bridge, and I would then be able to lower the saddles...then again I was an Literature major many moons ago, so math(s) are not my strongest

The OEM saddle grub screws seem to be 8mm; I have found some 10mm grub screws online (earmarked as "bass" saddle screws) but I do not know the specs on the screws (I.E. are these M3 metric or something else)? Not sure if the extra 2mm would do the trick, but it's better than the current situation. If anyone knows the bridge saddle grub screw specs please reply - thanks.

I do think long-term wise, it would be best to get some sort of solid-type saddle - I would think that would do the trick and make things more stable. Johnny - PM sent, thanks.

 

[sanderhermans]

The following links show how your problem could be easily resolved, while keeping your guitar completely stock. My classic sr4 came of the factory with a neck shim exactly like in link 1, a small piece of plastic that fits around 2 neck screws. Works a charm and nothing wrong with it.
Link 2 shows how you should shim, you want to shim to raise the action, then lower it again at the bridge. Before you do anny of this, check if your neck is set up correctly or if trus rod adjustement is needed. If you do not feel ok to do this yourself, have a luthier do it. Trust me. This is the way to go for the problem you describe.

https://www.google.be/imgres?imgurl...d=0CCUQMygLMAtqFQoTCP7Gn6eci8gCFUvbGgodKlAMvg
https://www.google.be/imgres?imgurl...d=0CB0QMygDMANqFQoTCP7Gn6eci8gCFUvbGgodKlAMvg