Setup advice

[Mark-NL]

Hi Guys,

Just a quick question (I didn't find the answer I am looking for with the search)

When setting up your guitar, what is the best way to start for setting up string height? I have a luke (2) and want the trem floating.

What steps do you guys follow? Do you start with the saddles to adjust string height, then adjust the truss rod, then the trem...or first the rod, then the trem, then the saddles...or......?

Thanks for your ideas.

 

[Spudmurphy]

The first thing you need to adjust is the trem claw if you want a floating bridge.
So if for example,if you have a guitar with a trem that does not float you:-
1)slacken the tension on the trem springs by screwing the claw out - giving the springs less tension.
2) the bridge should now float upwards and because of the wonders of geometry, your string height (action) will have increased, so you need to alter (lower) the saddle height by adjusting the saddle grub screws.
3) action adjustment is not achieved by just adjusting the truss rod but it one of things you can do to help in this.

When I adjust action, I personally start with a flat neck and get the strings as low as I want them. Then I introduce some relief (forward bow) by slackening the truss rod. This relief will allow the string to vibrate without causing so much buzz. It is a painstaking job doing a floating trem - good luck !!!

edit oh yeah and don't forget the intonation adjustment by screwing the saddles back to lengthen (flatten) the string or shorten (make the string #)

 

[nobozos]

Spud, I mean you no disrespect, but your advice is not entirely accurate. Although that is a way to achieve a floating trem on that guitar, it is not the best way.

The problem with just loosening the trem springs, and letting the trem rock forward on the pivot screws is that the trem is no longer parallel with the body.

This causes intonation, string height, and tuning stability issues. When you adjust the intonation, and move the bridge saddles forward and back, you are actually raising the string height on the saddles you move back, and lowering the height on the saddles you move forward. This causes some difficulty in picking, as the strings no longer have a smooth arc. It can also cause action adjustment issues, as the lower stings could buzz.

So, how do you make a trem float? The best way I've found is as follows:

Raise the pivot bolts enough to get the trem to float just above the body. Then adjust the trem spring tension vs. the string tension so that the trem is level with the body. Once you are happy with the trem action, you need to shim the neck to bring it closer to the strings. This will provide the best possible tuning stability, intonation, and action.

 

[tommyindelaware]

THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS.

i will post the way i think is best soon. but i have to go set the stage in a couple hrs. i have a luke at home and it rocks pretty hard.
i may have to start the post......then add to it .....that way it will get done sooner than waiting to have enough time to write it in 1 sitting.
(all this is assuming your neck angle is correct,and the string guage currently on the guitar are the ones you will be using)

1.the first thing i do is to (temporarily )tighten the claw so the bridge is NOT FLOATING.( this will only make sense later)
2.re-tune to pitch,then adjust the truss rod so that the neck is PERFECTLY flat. No upbow or backbow on the fret surfaces.
3. temporarily adjust the saddles in a straight line w/ the 4th string saddle,and adjust the saddle heights so that the screws are level w/ the top of the saddle.
4.re-tune to pitch , and adjust the bridge height to the point where you can play w/ the action pretty much where you want it in the upper registers.
5. adjust the 3rd string saddle height so that you have a clear buzz free tone from the 14th fret and up. don't worry bout the lower registers yet.
6.repeat for the 4,5,& 6th string.
7. for the 2nd string set the saddle height so that you a clear buzz free tone and also check for buzzing as you bend the notes up a step and a half. you should still have a clear buzz free tone when bending notes up w/o them choking
out. do the same thing for the first string. at his point your radius at the bridge should be shaping up as a smooth 10 " arc. it's alot easier to see w/ the saddles straight across.
8. once you got your upper registers playing where u want them......you then adjust the relief in the truss rod to allow you to play buzz free. add relief if you are hearing string rattle when you play.
9.this is when i remove the strings, clean the fretboard, & buff the frets using 0000 steel wool across the frets, and a fingarboard guard.
10. re-string w/ the same gauge strings.
11

 

[Spudmurphy]

Spud, I mean you no disrespect, but your advice is not entirely accurate. Although that is a way to achieve a floating trem on that guitar, it is not the best way.

No disrespect taken
I've literally tailored my reply to meet the requirements of Mark-NL based on the way he has structured his question. Mark - no disrespect to you but if you haven't done much on guitars - please don't start off by shimming necks
as incorrect fitting of the shim /tightening of neck screws can cause twists in any neck, which you won't be able to take out with truss rod adjustment.

Ask fellow knucklehead Lukather101 about his Luke that I looked at - you could hardly budge the neck screws faaaaaaaaaaaaar tooooooooo tight.

So the best advise of all is,if you're not sure, take it to a good guitar man and better still ask him if he could talk you through it. That may be a problem if the guy is busy - but it doesn't hurt to ask.

 

[beej]

The problem with just loosening the trem springs, and letting the trem rock forward on the pivot screws is that the trem is no longer parallel with the body.

On the Luke, the trem isn't parallel. It's raised so you can pull up a major 3rd on the G string. So different factory setup than the other EBMMs.

 

[Spudmurphy]

When I set up my LEAL for a floating trem using my method stated earlier, I found that I could not get on with it.
When I rested my palm on the bridge to mute, I found that I was pressing too hard.
So, I screwed the trem claw back in and re adjusted the saddle height, and I now have a very light dive only trem. I have to say that I really like the way the trem is set up now on the LEAL -it is so responsive.

 

[Mark-NL]

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

with your help I have been able to get a decent setup (stil workin on it). I chose to 'unfloat' the trem, so dive only.

Also found out that my saddles are causing tuning instability (they are rusty, so the strings can't properly slide in the saddles), so I mailed customer support to ask where i can get new ones.

Thanks!