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tbonesullivan

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So, I've had a bit of trouble trying to get my 2012 SR5 S to match the setup I love on my 2007 SR5 HS. It seems that the neck is just a bit lower in angle, so even with the neck pretty much dead straight and the B string saddle bottomed out, I get about 0.100" action at the 12th fret. I usually like it a bit lower, and I also like a bit more relief.

So, I was trying to straighten that neck just a bit more, and the screwdriver that I was using to turn the truss rod nut snapped, leaving the end of it in the nut. Only way to get it off was to take off the neck, so I figured if I'm taking off the neck, I'm gonna get the shimming situation taken care of so I can get the action I want.

What I found inside the neck pocket was a small plastic shim at the end, but it's very thin, and I can see an indentation in the neck pocket around the two screw holes it was around, so it looks like the shim pressed into the wood, and was no longer really doing it's job. I'm going to get an exact measurement on the shim when I get my digicalipers out.

So, what would be my best course of action? Add a thicker shim of the same size? maybe add a shim that covers more surface area so it can't sink in? Also, if I shim the end more, should I put a shim on the middle set of holes? I'm new to this whole shimming thing.
 

five7

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If you want to be able to put more relief put a shim under the neck closest to the bridge. I usually cut a thin piece off of a business card. It will slightly tip the neck and relief can be added. Really helped out my bongo and a couple of subs I have owned. I believe you can also order shims from C.S. Sometimes it takes awhile to get the angle you want.
 

Golem

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`

Whatever you do, don't shim the second set of holes ! Shimming is
all about tilting, so shimming the fulcrum of the "lever" is pointless.

I shim the shimless and reshim existing shims routinely. It's a very
normal element of personal set up, such that I abhor set necks and
neck thru designs as being too resistant to my personal preferences
in setting up a bass.

I usually shim full width, and have long wondered why EBMM uses
those dainty little scraps of plastic. But OTOH I seriously doubt that
your existing shim recessed into the wood in a manner that negates
its purpose. Sure it left an imprint, but it's doubtful that even 10%
of its thickness was negated by compressing the wood.

Just shim to get the result you want. Since you've expressed concern
about compression, I expect you'll avoid biz cards, unless they're not
paper-based. I occasionally encounter plastic biz cards and I do save
those even thought I never need the services offered ! Credit cards
are a bit too thick for most shimming. The heavier type of aluminum
disposable pie pans is an excellent source of shims. Even if you're on
a strict diet, one small pie pan will shim a fleet of basses :)
 

tbonesullivan

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Ok. I'll email CS. It just needs a smidge more neck angle. It's definitely a bit less tilted than my other SR5. Also, it's wood,and it changes over time. I hate seeing people going on and on about necks usually not needing shims...

I usually get surprised when I see a bolt on without a shim. It's easier when you've got a 2 point tremolo that has a very wide adjustment range. I have two identical guitars, no shims in the neck, and one has the floyd rose set 2mm higher.
 

epitaph04

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I;ve owned maybe 10 bass guitars in the last couple of years and each and every one of them had a shim.

Just make sure to remember to screw in the screws all the way when you put the neck back. I shimmed my Bongo 6 about a year ago and the action was good enough if not a tad uneven. Eventually I noticed that there was a slight gap between the neck and the body, so I grabbed my screwdrivers and tightened a bit more (there was about a turn or so of give left) and it totally changed the neck angle. My action is now very consistent throughout the entire neck.
 

TNT

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I set action on all my (et al) instruments the same way with "brass" shims of various thickness and 1/2" width. The absolute "best way to perform this is to determine what angle you desire and find the exact shim you need. This shim is placed in the neck pocket nearest the guitar/bass body, close to the screw holes.

Now, you will have a "gap" between the set of screw holes (front/back); this is the angle gap. I then place a thinner shim under the neck (in the gap) just perfectly touching the neck and the neck pocket. This will give some support under the neck where it "doesn't" meet the neck pocket wood.

One last note, ONLY tighten the neck screws "snuggly" - no tighter!! You do not need to crank the screws (which produces the indentation in the wood).

Done!
 
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uOpt

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First of all. Don't mess with the truss rod because of "action" or string height. Only mess with the truss rod if the relief is not what you want. If the relief is right and the string height is not, then obviously you do bridge height adjustment and when you run out of room you either shim the neck or re-route the bottom of the neck pocket (I did the latter).

Your shim very much sounds like it's not original. Can you post a photo?
 

tbonesullivan

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I'm very familiar with how to set up a bass and/or guitar. the problem is that with the neck close to dead straight, the low B string saddled was bottomed out on the bridge plate. This is the exact scenario when a change in shimming is called for on a bolt on.

The shim in there is definitely a factory shim. It's a plastic strip with two holes in it where the screws go through. I emailed customer service, and they are going to send me out some shims that I can use to get the neck angle just right.
 
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kylierider

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I shim all my MM stingrays. I use the yellow shim. I think that is the thickest one. There are three colors I believe. Brown, pink and yellow. Brown is the thinest, then pink and yellow being the thickest. Put it between the two screws closest to the body at the heel of the neck and your should have no more issues.

What color shim did you pull out?
 

tbonesullivan

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Ok, got the shims today, put in the pink one, and with no changes to the bridge and relief set as I like it, B action is around .090, which is a bit too low. So i should have no trouble keeping the action where I like it now. EBMM customer service rocks.
 

five7

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Did you add the pink one to the brown or just go with the pink one alone.
 

tbonesullivan

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I'm using just the pink one. I think the pink one may be twice the brown one. and the yellow maybe twice the pink?
 
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