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kimonostereo

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Jul 26, 2009
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Honolulu, HI
I posted this elsewhere but maybe this is more of a EBMM forum member question, so I'm giving it a shot here.

A friend has a beat up Axis body and needs to replace the Floyd rose trem. I have a Gotoh GE1996T that I might consider using on this guitar. The Axis has a 10" radius but the GE1996T Floyd is 14" radius stock. Anyone know which saddles to shim to get it to a 10" radius?
 

GBeattie

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May 11, 2022
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8
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BRISTOL England
I posted this elsewhere but maybe this is more of a EBMM forum member question, so I'm giving it a shot here.

A friend has a beat up Axis body and needs to replace the Floyd rose trem. I have a Gotoh GE1996T that I might consider using on this guitar. The Axis has a 10" radius but the GE1996T Floyd is 14" radius stock. Anyone know which saddles to shim to get it to a 10" radius?
This is what i posted on a similar post earlier if it helps. I use the copper/aluminium tape method

i know this thread is old but was searching in this area recently so thought I would put my "fix" in for this issue as it was the first 10" radius neck with floyd I had. Previously I was used to 16" radius with a 10-12" floyd and on that the middle strings where then obviously higher. So it did feel wierd having the high E "high" and middle strings "low" when playing the axis 10" radius with a flatter bridge radius.

i have my axis action set @ 1.4mm at 12th fret on all strings with a dead straight neck. i set the bass E and treble E at 1.4mm via the neck shim setup. Then I measured the difference in action for all of the middle strings eg. G was 1mm so I wanted to raise that action 0.4mm. I then stacked pieces of adhesive copper tape on top of eachother to just under double the "difference in action required" for each saddle and stuck it to the underside of the saddle. I used a sharp hobby knife to trim the copper to the profile of the saddle mounting face. Then I assembled each saddle back onto the bridge in its original position, the intonation was still decent enough for me but you can re-set. This is quite a standard approach I think for solving this issue and its worked great for me, I couldn't be happier with the results.

It allows me to keep the high E action low while keeping the middle strings a little higher than standard to minimise "fret rattle" on the middle strings 1-6 frets with the dead straight neck. And the dead straight neck then allows me to maximise the "next fret clearance" for the higher fretted E notes when bending to prevent choking out. This is the perfect setup for me with my axis. Hopefully this info is useful for someone just starting out with their axis. I now couldn't be happier with mine having moved from the charvel world, 12-16 compound radius etc.
 

kimonostereo

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Jul 26, 2009
Messages
1,184
Location
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Thanks! I know how to do it, but was more wondering if anyone knew specifically how many shims needed to go under each saddle. Thanks for mentioning copper tape. Seems like a good idea for some really exact adjustments!
 

GBeattie

Member
Joined
May 11, 2022
Messages
8
Location
BRISTOL England
Thanks! I know how to do it, but was more wondering if anyone knew specifically how many shims needed to go under each saddle. Thanks for mentioning copper tape. Seems like a good idea for some really exact adjustments!
Yea, i have seen shims available on ebay but the tape method is easiest for me since its percise and I've loads of it at my bench
 

jayjayjay

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Joined
Feb 18, 2021
Messages
276
Does your friend still have the beat-up FR trem? If it's from EBMM, you may be able to send it in to them and get a replacement (possibly for a fee). I've heard that while EBMM doesn't sell major components, they'll sell replacements if you have the original and can send it in.
 
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