- Thread starter christo
- Start date
MrMusashi
Well-known member
hello 
i am sorry but i dont understand the question.
might i suggest asking in your own language because we probably have some members who speak french very well
MrM
i am sorry but i dont understand the question.
might i suggest asking in your own language because we probably have some members who speak french very well
MrM
maddog
Well-known member
I think he's asking if the saddle screws should be adjusted so the long axis of the saddle copies the radius of the fretboard.
If it is, I don't know of a reason to but no reason not to experiment and see if it affects things.
If it is, I don't know of a reason to but no reason not to experiment and see if it affects things.
projectapollo
Well-known member
I understood the question but don't know the answer.
Rod Trussbroken
Moderator
IMO they should be parallel at the base.
RocketRalf
Well-known member
I think a flat saddle would allow for better contact between the flat bottom of the adjustment screws and the bridge plate, and also having the saddles' sides parallel to each other would let you keep them as close as possible, thus avoiding that annoying high E string slippage from the edge of the fretboard. There is no science to this, just speculation on my part.
patpark
Well-known member
this is correct. saddles should be level with the baseplate to prevent the saddle screws from vibrating loose.
bovinehost
Administrator
Absolutely, what Pat said. However, if what the original poster wants to know is should the height of the saddles reflect the radius of the board, then ideally, yes. In other words, the E and G would be slightly lower while the inner strings would be slightly higher.
This is more of an issue on smaller radius boards. (By smaller, I mean "rounder", in case anyone doesn't get that. IOW, a 7.25 or 7.50 board would be rounder than, say, an 11" radiused board.)
Hello and thank you all for your replies. Excuse my broken English, I understand but I find it difficult to write.
I asked this question because my StingRay 5 had angled saddles when I bought it. I think this setting has been done by someone of the music store.
I'll adjust it and put the saddles parallel to the base. I will see the difference, both in sound that's playing comfort.
I'll give you my impressions of the setting that suits me best.
Have a good day !
I asked this question because my StingRay 5 had angled saddles when I bought it. I think this setting has been done by someone of the music store.
I'll adjust it and put the saddles parallel to the base. I will see the difference, both in sound that's playing comfort.
I'll give you my impressions of the setting that suits me best.
Have a good day !
Both my MM's have the factory settings and the saddles are parallel to the base. I don't know how much difference this makes musically, but geometrically with the saddles parallel the string pressure will tend to pull perpendicular to the saddles and have a more solid footing in the saddle notches than if the saddles were at an angle.
keko
Well-known member
I think that right and complete answer is:
Keep each saddle parallel with plate, but each saddle must be at different height to follow the fretboard's radius and avoid fret buzzing!
I hope I wrote this correct and understandable in English!
Keep each saddle parallel with plate, but each saddle must be at different height to follow the fretboard's radius and avoid fret buzzing!
I hope I wrote this correct and understandable in English!
Ray Salamon
Well-known member
Interesting. I just looked at both of my Sterlings, and the height of the saddles doesn't match the fretboard radius - they're pretty level with one another. All are parallel to the plate. I'm going to "adjust" that and see if I notice/care one way or the other.
maddog
Well-known member
I think that right and complete answer is:
Keep each saddle parallel with plate, but each saddle must be at different height to follow the fretboard's radius and avoid fret buzzing!
I hope I wrote this correct and understandable in English!
you done good.
strummer
Enormous Member
Careful. It's the undersides of the strings that should match the fretboard...
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
+1 also exactly what Pat Park said.
Ray Salamon
Well-known member
Strummer - I understood that. My Bongo is setup "correctly", so I just made on of my sterlings match. It made a pretty big change in the feel of the bass actually. I'm going to do the other one later tonight or tomorrow.
Hi Ray Salamon, can you elaborate?
I hope my English will be understanding.
Personally I find that saddles inclined to keep the radius exploit the full width of the neck and I find the bass easier to play : the strings may be nearer the fingerboard without buzz.
But the sound is better with the saddles parallel to the base.
I will therefore adopt the correct setting.
I hope my English will be understanding.
Personally I find that saddles inclined to keep the radius exploit the full width of the neck and I find the bass easier to play : the strings may be nearer the fingerboard without buzz.
But the sound is better with the saddles parallel to the base.
I will therefore adopt the correct setting.
Last edited:
