Question Splitting the Y2D and more...

[Larry]

This question is probably most suited for beej but...

I need to find a wiring diagram that will give me this configuration...

Standard Y2D switching (H HS S HS H with two push pull pots.

The volume pot when pulled would engage both humbuckers like the JP BFR JP.

The tone pot would pulled would split the humbucker in whatever position is selected.

I really love the sounds I can get out of the Y2D, but I want to squeeze even more out of it.

As far as parts are concerned I would need...

2 Buy DiMarzio 250K Custom Taper Split Shaft Pot Push/Pull at Musician's Friend

So I suppose my real question is, does anyone know where I could find a diagram to accomplish this. As long as I can find a decent wiring diagram, I'm confident in my soldering skills that I could pull this off.

And of course upon completion I will post pictures of the operation.

 

[beej]

Haven't played the JP BFR- but pulling the pot gives you both 'buckers in parallel, right? The way a normal HH guitar would sound in the middle switch position?

If so, the Y2D switching is - Bridge H, HS, S, HH, Neck H - so you'd get that already in position 4.

As for the coil split, yes you could split both buckers with a single pull, not a problem. The difficulty is removing the tone pot to replace it- on the Y2D it's a bit delicate to get the PG off and remove that pot.

Do you use the tone control? One quick way around this (not having to remove the pot) is to wire the tone pot up as a variable split on the bridge p'up. This way, when it's full up you have your normal bridge 'bucker and when dialed all the way back you short out one coil and have a single coil at the bridge.

I've got my Y2D wired up that way, it's excellent. The split bridge mixed with the single coil sounds excellent, IMO.

 

[Larry]

Haven't played the JP BFR- but pulling the pot gives you both 'buckers in parallel, right? The way a normal HH guitar would sound in the middle switch position?

If so, the Y2D switching is - Bridge H, HS, S, HH, Neck H - so you'd get that already in position 4.

As for the coil split, yes you could split both buckers with a single pull, not a problem. The difficulty is removing the tone pot to replace it- on the Y2D it's a bit delicate to get the PG off and remove that pot.

Do you use the tone control? One quick way around this (not having to remove the pot) is to wire the tone pot up as a variable split on the bridge p'up. This way, when it's full up you have your normal bridge 'bucker and when dialed all the way back you short out one coil and have a single coil at the bridge.

I've got my Y2D wired up that way, it's excellent. The split bridge mixed with the single coil sounds excellent, IMO.

I use the tone pot quite a bit, but the variable split makes the most sense. If I like the sound of the split humbucker, I could always install a push pull pot later.

Would the tone pot split whatever humbucker is selected? For example position 1 2 4 5?

As for the both humbuckers being activated by a push pull pot, I was in a bit of a rush when I was typing my original post hence the error.

Thanks for the help beej, I didn't think anyone was going to respond.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

Larry,

Disconnect the lead from the volume knob to the tone, and wire up the white and black of the bridge pickup in its place, with the red wire for the bridge humbucker going to the switch, and the green and silver going to ground.

I don't know what would happen if you also wired up the white and black of the neck pickup to the same spot on the tone pot - it just might work how you want!

 

[beej]

Would the tone pot split whatever humbucker is selected? For example position 1 2 4 5?

It would split the p'up wired up to the tone pot, say the bridge, but in all positions it occurs in (it's "global"). A push-pull could be wired to split up both p'ups. FYI, the bridge one is excellent when split. The neck is ok, not that different.

To add to Pete's description, here's a schematic for the variable split:

Keep in mind: you'll be wiring Black & White from the bridge p'up to the tone lug (not R&W). And Red from the bridge p'up still stays on the wiring harness, which will stay wired to "A" on the vol pot.

So really you're just disconnecting all the leads from the tone pot (and the capacitor) to the volume pot, running a ground wire from the tone pot, opening up the shrink wrap where the B&W leads meet on the bridge p'up, and running a wire from there to the middle lug of the tone pot.

 

[SPI]

Removing the pickguard to change the pot isn't nessecery.
Use part of the following diagram
Wiring Diagram