SR5 Bridge B-string Saddle Intonation Screw

[tbonesullivan]

So, I know that some string brands out there use a tapered core B string, which in my experience does give a bit more "zing" to the B string. However, using such a string usually means moving the B string saddle towards the nut more, and the B string saddles on my two SR5's don't have much more room to more forward.

Has anyone tried taper wound B strings, and had issues with intonation? Would I need to get a new intonation/saddle screw and string to use the Taper wound B?

 

[keko]

Try to put 1 millimeter thick small brass or stainless steel plate (chip) under the B string saddle (between saddle screws and the main bridge plate)?
If not affect to the sound (tone), problem solved, ...or the other option is to get longer saddle screws?

 

[Soulkeeper]

I use a tapered B string on my fretless SR5. I have no problems with intonation. (But then again it's FL, and it intonates pretty differently from my fretted SR5.)

At the moment I'm using F 90505-M strings, but the B string had to be modified with some additional M6 nuts and some ugly masking tape, because the taper was far too long for the SR5 bridge.

If you need a new screw, I wager you'll be able to get one in your nearest hardware store, at least if they use imperial units where you live.

Anyway, how often do you play high up on the neck, on the B string? What I'm trying to say is that the B string is probably the string where perfect intonation is the least important.

BTW, the saddle also needs to be lifted away from the body, to compensate for the lower diameter of the B string.

 

[tbonesullivan]

Yeah, I think the taper length is going to be the biggest issue. The basses I use taper strings on are all string through body, which means that the taper is really close to the bridge. I've seen some pictures of guitars with taper wounds where there is almost an inch beyond the bridge saddle, and that can't be good.

I currently actually do use the B string up high at times, and on my Carvin B5, the intonation is pretty much perfect. I use the carvin strings which are re-branded labella nickel plated steel, which have a tapered B. I kinda wish EB would offer a taper wound.

 

[Soulkeeper]

I think my solution turned out pretty ok (for a hack, that is). I needed to "remove" a little more than 1" of excess taper, so I slipped a little more than 1" worth of M6 nuts onto the string before mounting the string on the bass.

To protect the finish behind the bridge against the scratching of nuts, I wrapped the whole shebang in several layers of tape.

A couple of layers of heat-shrink tubing would probably have been much better. At least it would have looked neater. But I couldn't find any there and then. Most of it is hidden by the "lip" of the bridge anyway.