Stingray/Sterling classic bridge saddles replace?

[Lesfunk]

it is known that the bridge saddles on the classic series of basses have a unique design that sometimes won’t allow the saddles to be lowered all the way. ( for players who prefer super low action)
has anyone replaced the classic saddles with standard EBMM bass saddles that allow the grub screw go through the top of the saddle, or just get shorter screws?
does anyone know the size/thread of the classic grub screws?

 

[danny-79]

If you find you can’t get the saddles low enough you need a neck shim, the saddles are designed not to wind all the way down to keep the design intact and function properly

 

[basshista]

Yes, shim is the answer...

 

[Lesfunk]

Yes, I knew that a neck shim would most likely be the most direct path in this case as well as the proper, obvious answer.
I was hoping to not have to shell out the money for the expensive stewmac tapered shims. Its the $11.00 shipping that frosts me more than the actual price of the shim, but they are the ones I prefer to use because of the full contact nature vs. the std type that leaves some of the heel not touching the body.

 

[Golem]

You could just increase the neck shim. I don’t know the color codes. I just make my own and wing it.

 

[danny-79]

A trick I learned off this forum is to use masking/decorators tape. Add it and take it away until you have it where you want it. It works great I can vouch for that

 

[rhythmCity944]

A piece of find grit (1500) sandpaper does wonders too. If you want a full contact shim, you can always make your own using shimming material from a hardware store or sanding down a piece of veneer.

 

[five7]

Painters blue tape works for me. I use to make shims out of all kinds of materials, now I only use blue tape.

 

[danny-79]

Painters blue tape works for me. I use to make shims out of all kinds of materials, now I only use blue tape.

It was you that I got the suggestion off, I’ve used it a couple of times now and works brilliant