This is going to seem quite dumb but how do I change the strings on an Axis Super Sport? The tuners look very different to those on my strat (which I fear is gonna get played a lot less now that I have the Super Sport) the strings don't appear to wind round the posts - any feedback would be appreciated..
- Thread starter beexter
- Start date
Very simple. The tuners on a lot of ernie ball's are Schaller locking tuners. They eliminate the need to wind the string around the post because they lock the string in the hole it passes through.
Follow this proceedure:
Detune existing strings.
On the back of the tuner, loosen the large knob.
Remove string from post and take off the guitar.
Feed a new string through bridge and up to post.
Pull through hole in post tight, leaving no slack in string.
Tighten knob on tuner.
Tune to pitch
Repeat for all strings.
Follow this proceedure:
Detune existing strings.
On the back of the tuner, loosen the large knob.
Remove string from post and take off the guitar.
Feed a new string through bridge and up to post.
Pull through hole in post tight, leaving no slack in string.
Tighten knob on tuner.
Tune to pitch
Repeat for all strings.
StringKong
New member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2013
- Messages
- 4
proud new owner of a JP6 but I always have had Floyd rose. This thing stayed in tune rock solid but never having owned a Schaller lock tuner ax before, I detuned and then removed all the strings. It does not hold tune like it did out of the store. I read on the EBMM site that taking all the strings off at once is the best practice but I checked and my intonation is still spot on. I think I had a little slack in the strings when I replaced them. Could this be causing me grief with it detuning a lot? I would have to think I am the wrench in the works as it was solid until I changed strings.
StringKong
New member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2013
- Messages
- 4
I meant to say taking off all the strings is NOT the best practice, sorry for the syntax error
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
Hi Stringkong
The thinking is that if you are just re stringing without maintenance to the neck such as cleanining/oiling, then it is easier to replace one at a time. This is often the case with all floating trems. As you take off one string then the bridge will go down slightly as there is now only (on a 6 string guitar) 5 strings pulling against the trem springs. As you put on a replacement string the trem should return up to it's former position. However if you were to take off all your strings in one go and replace them with strings that are not the same guage then the trem would no longer be in the same position and you would have to adjust the spring tension to get the trem back to it's original position. I have never owned nor adjusted a floyd guitar but the advice I give based on classic floating bridges holds true. I also believe that if you were to take off all the strings in one go there is a chance of the bridge flying off and damaging your guitar, so by having a couple of strings still in place at any one time will prevent this.
In keeping with the original post, I would re iterate the fact that you need absolutely no windings on the string post. I always just pull them through as (finger) tight as I can, lock the knurled screw, and tune up.
Just as an aside I would also mention that sometimes when you remove a string from the locking tuner, the ball bearing in the locking mechanism can sometimes remain in the "up" postion. You'll know that this has happened to you when you try and feed a new string through and the hole seems "blocked". In this instance just give the top of the post a light tap and you should release the ball so the string will pass through.
Just as a tip, I always carry a string winder with me on gigs as it cuts the string (kindly provided by a knucklehead a few years ago, now who was that??) AND .... a few cocktail sticks. This can free a string when the ball end of the string can get caught in the classic trem block. A few prods with the cocktail stick invariably frees the ball end and it then drops out.
Hope this helps you with your query?
The thinking is that if you are just re stringing without maintenance to the neck such as cleanining/oiling, then it is easier to replace one at a time. This is often the case with all floating trems. As you take off one string then the bridge will go down slightly as there is now only (on a 6 string guitar) 5 strings pulling against the trem springs. As you put on a replacement string the trem should return up to it's former position. However if you were to take off all your strings in one go and replace them with strings that are not the same guage then the trem would no longer be in the same position and you would have to adjust the spring tension to get the trem back to it's original position. I have never owned nor adjusted a floyd guitar but the advice I give based on classic floating bridges holds true. I also believe that if you were to take off all the strings in one go there is a chance of the bridge flying off and damaging your guitar, so by having a couple of strings still in place at any one time will prevent this.
In keeping with the original post, I would re iterate the fact that you need absolutely no windings on the string post. I always just pull them through as (finger) tight as I can, lock the knurled screw, and tune up.
Just as an aside I would also mention that sometimes when you remove a string from the locking tuner, the ball bearing in the locking mechanism can sometimes remain in the "up" postion. You'll know that this has happened to you when you try and feed a new string through and the hole seems "blocked". In this instance just give the top of the post a light tap and you should release the ball so the string will pass through.
Just as a tip, I always carry a string winder with me on gigs as it cuts the string (kindly provided by a knucklehead a few years ago, now who was that??) AND .... a few cocktail sticks. This can free a string when the ball end of the string can get caught in the classic trem block. A few prods with the cocktail stick invariably frees the ball end and it then drops out.
Hope this helps you with your query?
StringKong
New member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2013
- Messages
- 4
Thanks for the info. That certainly helps and you also solved the mystery of why I couldn't get the low E threaded for about 3 minutes. Didn't know if there was an insert or something so I was going quite gingerly so as not to break something. Appreciate the response Sir!
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
No problem - I had good practice when I used to help Strings n Things restring a whole load of guitars for exhibitions/clinics.
Glad it helped.
Glad it helped.
