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gitapik

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I recently bought a used MM Silhouette Special. The previous owner had put a standard 5 way switch in there. Sounded great, but I wanted the neck/bridge combination in the 3 spot. So I had my tech put in a super switch and was very happy with the results.

One month later and I'm flicking from the 5 (neck) to the 2 position. Somehow I end up in a dead spot. Very, very faint sound coming out of the amp. It's between the 3 and 2 position on the switch.

I emailed my tech and he said that the super switch is much more fragile than a standard 5 way. Says it's a tradeoff. More wiring possibilities but more of a probability of having to replace/repair the switch along the way. Says he can repair or replace the unit if I like.

I like to toggle between positions when I play. I'm not a "banger", but I'm also not going to carefully move from position to position on a 5 way. There's a technique to how hard I hit the switch to get from here to there in as small a time frame as possible. I really wasn't hitting it hard at all and here I am with a "broken" switch after only a month.

Much as I'm into the neck/bridge combination and the silent circuit, I'm seriously considering moving back to the standard 5 way switch. Hitting that dead zone is a no-go.

Wondering if anyone else has had similar experiences with their super switch. Thanks for your time.
 
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Gio_Force_One

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Never had that problem with any of morses and I'm not easy on the switch at all. Could just be a bad switch.
 
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beej

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There are a few varieties of multi-pole lever switch, some better than others. The ones MM sources are great and I've never had a problem with them. Perhaps contact CS and buy one from them? You can wire them up to do pretty much anything you want.
 

Harable

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Hey, here's a thought...super switches are essentially 4 5-way switches that move to the positions at the same time. Depending on how the four different areas are populated, you may be able to simply move the wiring for those pickups that you're using in pos 1 and 2 from the current set of the four to one of the other ones, so that you're using a whole different set of connections.
 

gitapik

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Hey, here's a thought...super switches are essentially 4 5-way switches that move to the positions at the same time. Depending on how the four different areas are populated, you may be able to simply move the wiring for those pickups that you're using in pos 1 and 2 from the current set of the four to one of the other ones, so that you're using a whole different set of connections.
I'm a little embarrassed to say that this kind of work is beyond my scope. Sounds good...but I can't make practical use of the info.

Now...if you'd like to hear about a great way to strip a wrought iron handrail and fence, I've gotten pretty good at that, lately. It's my latest project (outside of music).

Thanks.
 

Etudica

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There are a few varieties of multi-pole lever switch, some better than others. The ones MM sources are great and I've never had a problem with them.

I can't speak to the super switch, but I have had 2 factory MM JP 3-ways break on the same guitar. On initial arrival (brand spanking new) it was broken. Then after a few trips back and forth to Cali it broke again during return shipping after unrelated repairs. Albeit, both times they were broken during shipping (without any other discernible physical damage to the guitar), but still... that one doesn't leave the house anymore. ever.
 

markd

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I have an Albert Lee HH that has the same issue - dead spots on the switch. I have the "GC wiring" that also has a push/pull coil tap on the tone. It does cool stuff, but I don't move the switch live because of the dead spots. Kind of a stinker, but it is what it is.
 

gitapik

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I have an Albert Lee HH that has the same issue - dead spots on the switch. I have the "GC wiring" that also has a push/pull coil tap on the tone. It does cool stuff, but I don't move the switch live because of the dead spots. Kind of a stinker, but it is what it is.
Might just be bad switches. Someone on another forum mentioned trying some contact cleaner. I'll give that a shot tonight.
 

DrKev

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No problem with my one (now ten years old and very well used). I've never heard of super switches (of any brand) being particularly problematic. But hey bad ones crop up form time to time and I think you were just unlucky to get one. Buy a new one, either direct from EBMM or from Stew Mac, and you'll probably be fine for ever more.
 

gitapik

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No problem with my one (now ten years old and very well used). I've never heard of super switches (of any brand) being particularly problematic. But hey bad ones crop up form time to time and I think you were just unlucky to get one. Buy a new one, either direct from EBMM or from Stew Mac, and you'll probably be fine for ever more.
I tried the contact cleaner. No luck.

Will order another switch and give it a shot. I like it's benefits a lot. Thanks.
 

agt

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I have installed approximately 10 Megaswitches (E Model) purchased from Stew Mac and I have never had any issues. The E Model will get you the middle position that you describe. They are built well and come with very clear soldering instructions. The shaft and the associated plastic knob cap are a slightly different size than standard if I recall correctly, so if you want some color other than black or white, that could be an issue.

I have not heard of a "Super Switch", so I Googled the term and apparently there is such a product with that name and it appears to be different than the Megaswitch. You might want to check with your tech if it was this other switch; if so, I would advise using the Megaswitch.
 

jamminjim

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adt a megaswitch is a replacement for a one-wafer strat 5-way switch. The two wafer switches used in the Silo Spec are called "super switch" and this kind of switch is required to wire up the Silo Spec circuit. The megaswitch will not work.

OP has you tech asked for and received the schematic for the SS from EBMM. I also have them if needed. Are the switch positions exactly like the SS diagram shows?

Also it is important to note that EBMM made a change in the switches it used and uses in Silo Specs. The older models had a different terminal assignment. They changed to the more common Super Switch and I will have to look through my files to find the date they did that. I for one am very happy they did because the older SS guitars were a bugger to help people with.
 
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DrKev

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Yes, the Oak Grigsby Spuer Switch sold by Stew Mac will do the job fine. The E Series megaswitch will do the job *IF* you don't require the silent circuit.

Also it is important to note that EBMM made a change in the switches it used and uses in Silo Specs. The older models had a different terminal assignment. They changed to the more common Super Switch and I will have to look through my files to find the date they did that. I for one am very happy they did because the older SS guitars were a bugger to help people with.

2011 (St Patrick's day). :)
The current ones are the same terminal layout as the stew mac one.
 

jamminjim

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Well I stand corrected - guess the E model will work as DrKev mentions .. I'd not seen one before. Actually they are kind of cool. :) There's a superswitch on ebay for 16.19 free ship and in USA.
 
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gitapik

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adt a megaswitch is a replacement for a one-wafer strat 5-way switch. The two wafer switches used in the Silo Spec are called "super switch" and this kind of switch is required to wire up the Silo Spec circuit. The megaswitch will not work.

OP has you tech asked for and received the schematic for the SS from EBMM. I also have them if needed. Are the switch positions exactly like the SS diagram shows?

Also it is important to note that EBMM made a change in the switches it used and uses in Silo Specs. The older models had a different terminal assignment. They changed to the more common Super Switch and I will have to look through my files to find the date they did that. I for one am very happy they did because the older SS guitars were a bugger to help people with.
Yeah...he told me the MegaSwitch would take the silent circuit out of the loop. Even showed me the schematic to explain why. I'm really impressed with that circuit and how it retains the clarity of that neck pickup. It's quite fine, indeed. BTW: the Lollar Blackface I put in there just gets better and better the more I use it. Love the flat poles.

I'd very much appreciate the original diagram if you can round it up, Jim. I'm not sure where my tech got the diagram but an original might be in order. I'll send him an email asking and also ask if he's aware of the change in switches. My ax is a 2009.

Also going to look into that Oak Grigsby at Stew Mac.

As is, I'm biding my time and getting used to the defective switch I've got. I'm at the point now where I can hit the right spots 8 out of 10 times, I'd say. Sucks when I hit the dead spot, though. But I love this guitar exactly as it was built to be in terms of pickup configs and the silent circuit.

Really appreciate the help, guys. Thanks.
 

steevo

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My silo has a dead spot on the switch between bridge humbucker and mid/bridge. Will get around to replacing it one day. Tried contact cleaner and it didnt work. Next time i restring my guitar ill take a look to see why physically its doing it.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

gitapik

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I contacted my tech. He told me he used the original EBMM schematic for the SS and is, indeed, using the Oak Grigsby SuperSwitch.

Looks like I'll be bringing it back to him for fixing or replacing. Have to be a little gentler with me toggle, me thinks, lol.
 

gitapik

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Well...here I am, 6 months later, with the same situation.

I called the techs at EBMM. They said they'd never heard of this problem. Suggested I get their factory superswitch over the Stu-Mac, which I did.

I brought it to the tech who, after installing, showed me how the old switch had some extra "play" to it, which is what he said had created the dead spot. I tried the newbie out and, voila! No problem!

Two days later and: no voila. Same problem.

Is it how I hit the switch, maybe? With my Strat, I've developed a flick which is pretty accurate between positions. But it's not a deliberate, careful flick. To get from one position to the next requires varying degrees of "flick" (getting almost comical, here).

The last time I got a new superswitch, it went bad after a day. I'm wondering if my style is just too hard on a superswitch and if I should just bite the freakin' bullet and set this baby up as a standard 5 way switch and live with the hum. It's just too nice of a guitar to give up on.
 
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