Tru-oil question and NGD (Sub1)

[GoKart Mozart]

Bought this used Sub1 from a Guitar Center in CA. Haven't received it yet, so no good pics right now. It looks to be a little beat up in places, but it should make for a fun project guitar.

Guitar ER's recent thread has me wanting to redo the back of the neck. Here's my question: does birchwood casey Tru-oil and gunstock wax have a shelf life? I found a bottle of each that I bought back in 2003 for a guitar project. Wonder if it would be ok to use those if I shook them up really well?

Also...I was planning on doing just the tru-oil then wax. Any point in doing the sealer/filler? Doesn't MM just do the oil then wax?

 

[Spudmurphy]

As\long as it's still "runny" and hasn't gone hard my guess is that it should be ok?

 

[beej]

No idea, but I'd reckon what Spud says is right. Check the container, if there's an issue it would likely mention it.

 

[GoKart Mozart]

Well after doing some Googling, I found some posts on a couple of hunting/outdoor forums that mention that the oil/wax tends to "gum up" about 6 months after opening the bottle.

Oh well, no biggie.

 

[banjoplayer]

Well after doing some Googling, I found some posts on a couple of hunting/outdoor forums that mention that the oil/wax tends to "gum up" about 6 months after opening the bottle.

Oh well, no biggie.

uuh that would be very quick as you just need minimal amounts of oil/wax at each treatment. I have my oil/wax for a bit more than 2 years now and didn´t notice any changes...

 

[ScreaminFloyd]

Also...I was planning on doing just the tru-oil then wax. Any point in doing the sealer/filler? Doesn't MM just do the oil then wax?

Really you just need the Tru Oil and then the Wax. I put it on twice a year. Once right before winter and then in June right before summer.
Personally I never sand or steel wool. It's just me though, I like to keep my DNA in the wood After the Oil and Wax it feels like a brand new neck. Good Luck !

 

[GoKart Mozart]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I think I'll chance it and use the old stuff I've got. I can always re-sand and do it again if it doesn't turn out right.

 

[guitar ER]

OK here's a quick how to:

Sand off the paint with 180 grit. Once its all gone, make sure you sand the original filler they used at the factory all off. It will appear as a yellowish cloudy area, especially around the curve where the neck meets the headstock, and the thin edge around the headstock. Then re sand with 320 grit, 600 grit, and 0000 steel wool.

At this point, with a damp rag, moisten the sanded wood and let dry. This will raise the grain. Hit it again with 0000 wool, and repeat. It will also show if you missed any sealer this way, as the water will not soak into those sealed areas. Get the wood damp, not soaking wet.

Now you're ready for the Stain>>>Sealer>>>Tru Oil>>>Wax

The sealer/filler really gives a smooth flawless finish. Just rub it on with a rag. Let dry, sand with 0000 steel wool, wipe with a clean microfiber cloth. I did that twice.

I'd recommend using fresh products. A bottle is just a few $$.

Have fun!


PS, buy a new bottle of tru oil, and pour a little into a cup, dip your fingers in it and rub it on the wood.
Store the tru oil in its container upside down.