Truss Rod Question

[zenmba]

I know there are previous posts regarding truss rod adjustment. However, my situation is confusing to me - or is likely user error

1. My action is low and in recent months I noticed a slight buzz.
2. I moved the truss rod wheel counter-clockwise...
3. ...but, the wheel seemed very loose, and didn't raise the action.
4. Moving it clockwise tightened the wheel, but lowered the action more.

What are my options? It seems that the wheel has been adjusted too far counter-clockwise, but I don't want string buzz / low action.

Thank you! -Billy

 

[ruso]

Not trying to jack your thread, but I have something to add to your question...

My JP7 is less than a month old, literally from its build date and it's also starting to develop some fret buzz. I did the neck relief check per Music Man's FAQ and there is barely a credit card's worth of spacing between the string and frets. I must note that it is extremely dry in my house this time of year. In my experience, with my other two non-Music Man guitars, humidity levels really don't effect solid body guitars like it affects say, acoustic guitars. Are the Music Man guitars susceptible to humidity changes because of the way the necks are finished?

 

[candid_x]

Billy, facing the fretboard with the headstock upward, clockwise tightens or removes relief, counter clockwise loosens or adds relief. Sounds like you went the wrong direction for what you wanted to achieve.

 

[zenmba]

Billy, facing the fretboard with the headstock upward, clockwise tightens or removes relief, counter clockwise loosens or adds relief. Sounds like you went the wrong direction for what you wanted to achieve.

candid, thanks for the response. So, user error it is!!!

To clarify, I should remove relief which should "raise" the action and eliminate fret buzz. (It has certainly been a while since I did any adjustments!)

Also, I had read other posts stating it's best to make adjustments in small increments so as to not stress the neck.

-Thanks again!

 

[zenmba]

Not trying to jack your thread, but I have something to add to your question...

My JP7 is less than a month old, literally from its build date and it's also starting to develop some fret buzz. I did the neck relief check per Music Man's FAQ and there is barely a credit card's worth of spacing between the string and frets. I must note that it is extremely dry in my house this time of year. In my experience, with my other two non-Music Man guitars, humidity levels really don't effect solid body guitars like it affects say, acoustic guitars. Are the Music Man guitars susceptible to humidity changes because of the way the necks are finished?

ruso, it's certainly ok to ask questions here! I have noticed all my electrics require adjustment in winter (and summer) due to humidity and temp changes. I'm in the Midwest and can experience not only seasonal, but extreme changes daily.

 

[Astrofreq]

Just turn like crazy, somethings bound to happen.

 

[zenmba]

Just turn like crazy, somethings bound to happen.

LMAO!!

 

[ruso]

Just turn like crazy, somethings bound to happen.

Cool, I'll give that a try... I'll be right back.

I guess I'll need to give her an adjustment as well. I should really invest in a humidifier.

 

[candid_x]

Just turn like crazy, somethings bound to happen.

This is why BP doesn't let us carry hand tools.

 

[candid_x]

To clarify, I should remove relief which should "raise" the action and eliminate fret buzz. (It has certainly been a while since I did any adjustments!)

Also, I had read other posts stating it's best to make adjustments in small increments so as to not stress the neck.

-Thanks again!

Nope, just the opposite. Removing relief lowers the action around the middle of the neck. Think of it like a bow straightening out. To do that you need to tighten the truss rod, turning to the right. Loosening relaxes the neck into a bow, raising the string action around the middle of the neck.

 

[zenmba]

Nope, just the opposite. Removing relief lowers the action around the middle of the neck. Think of it like a bow straightening out. To do that you need to tighten the truss rod, turning to the right. Loosening relaxes the neck into a bow, raising the string action around the middle of the neck.

Ok, now I'm confused. Here's what I did:

1. With the headstock away and body near, I turned the wheel counter-clockwise. I expected this would raise the strings.

2. The problem was that the wheel itself is no longer tight - almost as if it had been moved too far counter-clockwise. (the wheel seems "too loose" - I can move it with only my fingers)

3. If I move the wheel clockwise, the wheel tightens again, but the strings are lowered (not want I need).

Perhaps I need to tighten so that the gear wheel itself isn't loose, then slightly raise the saddles. I didn't want to do that, but...

 

[candid_x]

Perhaps I need to tighten so that the gear wheel itself isn't loose, then slightly raise the saddles. I didn't want to do that, but...

That's what I would do, but hold up on the saddle adjustments just yet. You have to start from scratch with some tension on the truss/neck. Also keep in mind, it usually needs to settle a bit each time, or you can gently push/pull the neck a bit toward it's adjustment.

You might consider taking it to someone who knows what they're doing to have it set up.

 

[zenmba]

You might consider taking it to someone who knows what they're doing to have it set up.

Terrific idea!!!

Actually, I've done well setting up my own guitars in the past, but it wouldn't hurt to have a pro get it right.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[candid_x]

My pleasure. It's really about very small adjustments, but once it's derailed it can be be a little tricky getting it back on track. Of course I think when we buy a used guitar we may be starting with the wheels already off the track, so there's no shame in getting some help from a pro. Though if you're like me, you'll probably figure it out for yourself, which in the end is the best way.

 

[Spudmurphy]

Please read here
Adjusting A Truss Rod on You Guitar, Bass, Mandolin - What is it? How do I check relief? How do I adjust the rod properly?

Setting up a guitar is down to your requirements.
1) Some people prefer a bit of bow in their neck or relief. This is where the tension of the strings pull the neck forwards. To counteract the force bowing the neck, manufacturers use a truss rod.
Tightening a truss rod pulls back against the bow (like a tug - o - war) Slackening a truss rod is like letting the rope go in a tug o war. I steered clear of truss rod adjustment for years - but there is not a lot to it.

2) Some people like a flat neck (Dan erlewine for one).
Remember a lot of guitars buzz a bit when the action is very low - but it doesn't come out when you are amped up.
The biggest problem is when you are playing say 15 fret - you bend the string and it chokes. - then you need a set up.
I would think that EB has got the set up pretty much spot on from the factory - if you have only had it a month I personally would not go about doing anything too drastic

 

[zenmba]

Please read here
Adjusting A Truss Rod on You Guitar, Bass, Mandolin - What is it? How do I check relief? How do I adjust the rod properly?

Thanks for the link and advice Spud. I will do more research. The guitar is almost 3years old. I got it from the factory and it the setup was great. I think over time with weather changes and minor tweaks I have gotten it slightly out of whack. Time to tweak seriously or get a pro involved. I agree it's better to figure out for oneself....unless cracking noises are heard.

 

[Lou]

If the truss rod ajustment screw is spinning freely, you've run out of adjustment room in that direction. There is no tension left on the rod for you to influence by loosening.

 

[candid_x]

I agree it's better to figure out for oneself....unless cracking noises are heard.

LOL! eeeyeah... been there, done that too.

 

[ivanmihaljevic]

I've posted this already a thousand times here, so I saved it on my hard disk, so I don't have to write it every time again.
Setup the truss rod the way it's explained here and then you can adjust your action from the bridge posts.
If you don't succeed, take it to a pro or contact CS.
I hope this helps.

The way I set up the truss rod is:

Press the G string on the first fret with your left hand, and with your right hand press the G string right after the last fret. Then look at the distance between the string and the frets between 7th to 9th. The distance between the string and the frets should be very very small (0.3 mm=0.012" maximum), but the string should not be touching the above mentioned frets.
If the distance is too big, tighten the truss rod (looking from the bridge side - turn the wheel clockwise).
If the distance is too small, release the truss rod (looking from the bridge side - turn the wheel counterclockwise).
Make any adjustments gradually and check the curvature the way I described it above after each 1/2 turn.


As far as the intonation adjustment goes:

To check the intonation, compare the harmonic note above the 12th fret of every string to the fretted note on the 12th fret.
If the fretted pitch is higher than the harmonic, saddle must be moved backward to lengthen string (turn the screw at the base of the bridge clockwise).
If the fretted pitch is lower than the harmonic, saddle must be moved forward to shorten string (turn the screw at the base of the bridge counterclockwise).

The strings shouldn't be lower than 1.6 mm (I typed it into a cm->inch converter and it should be something like 0,00624") measured form the top of the 19th fret to the bottom of the string.

 

[zenmba]

If the truss rod ajustment screw is spinning freely, you've run out of adjustment room in that direction. There is no tension left on the rod for you to influence by loosening.

Lou, thanks - that makes sense. I was afraid of that.