• Ernie Ball
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chrismilne

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May 15, 2004
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This guitar has given me trouble for a long time with high action from say the 9th fret up...i presumed the neck needs to be shimmed, though when i first got it it played nice (from what i remember), so it doesn't seem to make sense that now the neck needs to be shimmed.

Recently i'm working on a project that is in drop C and i couldn't make the guitar work well with 9's or 9-46 hybrids. I decided to try the heavy bottoms 10-52, and no suprise the action is worse now (also pulling from the middle frets and getting higher as they go). I was looking closer at the bridge and it is on an angle as well, is that normal? the high e side touches the body, the bottom e side does not and its at an angle when looking from behind. How can you even adjust that? it doesn't seem adjustable. if i push on the bridge it seems like it has no where to go, is the knife edge not sitting correctly?

Thanks

Photos are hard to tell because of the reflection off of the guitar unfortunately.

Ernie Ball Axis Bridge - chrismilne
 

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DrKev

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when i first got it it played nice (from what i remember), so it doesn't seem to make sense that now the neck needs to be shimmed.

Correct. Any unwanted change in string action that is not due to changes in the bridge/saddles or shims suggests the neck relief has changed (due to changes in humidity and temp). Adjusting the truss rod is the appropriate fix. See image below...

Adjustment2.jpg

Recently i'm working on a project that is in drop C and i couldn't make the guitar work well with 9's or 9-46 hybrids. I decided to try the heavy bottoms 10-52, and no suprise the action is worse now (also pulling from the middle frets and getting higher as they go).

Yes. The higher tension of the new string gauge pulls the headstock harder which increases neck relief, which you'll adjust as mentioned above.

I was looking closer at the bridge and it is on an angle as well, is that normal? the high e side touches the body, the bottom e side does not and its at an angle when looking from behind. How can you even adjust that? it doesn't seem adjustable. if i push on the bridge it seems like it has no where to go, is the knife edge not sitting correctly?

Knife edge is probably fine. More likely you can lower the low E side bridge mounting post. If I recall correctly that should be a 4 mm allen wrench.
 

chrismilne

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May 15, 2004
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48
Thanks for the reply. It seems like I’ve tightened the truss rod as far as I’m comfortable with. It seems like it’s too tight to go any further.

I thought I read the bridge was fixed and not adjustable. I will see about whether I can lower the one side.

Correct. Any unwanted change in string action that is not due to changes in the bridge/saddles or shims suggests the neck relief has changed (due to changes in humidity and temp). Adjusting the truss rod is the appropriate fix. See image below...

View attachment 33589



Yes. The higher tension of the new string gauge pulls the headstock harder which increases neck relief, which you'll adjust as mentioned above.



Knife edge is probably fine. More likely you can lower the low E side bridge mounting post. If I recall correctly that should be a 4 mm allen wrench.
 

tbonesullivan

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Did you purchase the Axis new, or was it used? It looks like someone may have adjusted the bridge height.

The posts should be adjustable, as with a floyd rose, the individual saddles can't really be height adjusted, unless you shim them or something similar.

I would think maybe a visit to a guitar tech is in order, to get it set up right.
 

chrismilne

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May 15, 2004
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I bought it used but at least 15 years ago. The bridge came off the last time i was changing the strings but i thought i put it back on properly which never happened before (didn't adjust the posts though)...but the action problem has been going on for years, i've always tried messing with the neck relief and it's playable but nothing straight as my other guitars. After i finish this project and put normal strings back on i will get a paid/proper setup i think, but i don't want to bother with the guitar using the heavy strings and drop tuning that i don't plan on keeping.
 

Stratty316

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I bought it used but at least 15 years ago. The bridge came off the last time i was changing the strings but i thought i put it back on properly which never happened before (didn't adjust the posts though)...but the action problem has been going on for years, i've always tried messing with the neck relief and it's playable but nothing straight as my other guitars. After i finish this project and put normal strings back on i will get a paid/proper setup i think, but i don't want to bother with the guitar using the heavy strings and drop tuning that i don't plan on keeping.

If everything else fails, you can call the factory and have them work on it. There is a cost at this point, but from what I understand the bench rates are very reasonable and you will get it back "factory fresh". I was going to do it when 3 of my EBMMs turned 20.
 

beej

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+1 to that. I've sent a number of guitars back to MM for work and they've come back in incredible shape.
 

chrismilne

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May 15, 2004
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If everything else fails, you can call the factory and have them work on it. There is a cost at this point, but from what I understand the bench rates are very reasonable and you will get it back "factory fresh". I was going to do it when 3 of my EBMMs turned 20.

Shipping from the east coast might be the worst part of it though....
 

beej

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Yeah, that cost factors in. (I shipped mine from Canada.) But if it's something you don't trust a local tech to do, then it's your best approach.
 
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