• Ernie Ball
  • MusicMan
  • Sterling by MusicMan

robelinda2

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Messages
9,330
Location
Diamond Creek, VIC, Australia- at Rancho Alberto
Rob...you lost me here. What is confusing? :confused:

well no-one has mentioned adjustung the truss rod to change the string height, i read the posts so far as meaning that people were adjusting the rod to counter the climate changing the neck relief.

adjusting the neck relief isnt the same thing as changing string height, hence the confusion. does the truss rod serve dual purposes, as per the EB FAQ?
 

CudBucket

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2004
Messages
1,400
well no-one has mentioned adjustung the truss rod to change the string height, i read the posts so far as meaning that people were adjusting the rod to counter the climate changing the neck relief.

adjusting the neck relief isnt the same thing as changing string height, hence the confusion. does the truss rod serve dual purposes, as per the EB FAQ?


Well that's why I adjusted it yesterday. The .12s tuned to C cause extra relief and resulted in a higher action. A little righty-tighty pulled out some relief and down went the strings.

It really is the best way to do the action because you don't have to mess with the individual saddles or change the bridge height. The bridge can remain at it's factory setting which is just a hair higher than the surface of the top.
 

jaxadam

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
445
Location
Jacksonville, FL
well no-one has mentioned adjustung the truss rod to change the string height, i read the posts so far as meaning that people were adjusting the rod to counter the climate changing the neck relief.

adjusting the neck relief isnt the same thing as changing string height, hence the confusion. does the truss rod serve dual purposes, as per the EB FAQ?

Adjusting the truss rod will change the action. I like my guitar necks almost straight, but with a little relief, so I adjust the action with bridge height and nut height, but not the truss rod. Well, a combination of both, really. It all depends.
 
Last edited:

koogie2k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
5,859
Location
Moyock, NC
Rob...that I am not sure of. I have adjusted the truss to raise/lower the board which seems like raising/lowereing the strings. Maybe I am wrong....but it seems that way to me.

Jax...advantage? Well, I have one axe with it done and two without. The one done was the neck that was replaced when my JP was broke. Jon did a fret dress, set up and neck seal. I actually like it. I do find that I only had to adjust the neck once since I got it back....about a year now...the others are more often. Coincidence? Maybe. I like the slick feel of it. This axe is my main player...and I like it. Can't say it is more advantageous over the others though to be honest. :cool:
 

jaxadam

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
445
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Rob...that I am not sure of. I have adjusted the truss to raise/lower the board which seems like raising/lowereing the strings. Maybe I am wrong....but it seems that way to me.

Jax...advantage? Well, I have one axe with it done and two without. The one done was the neck that was replaced when my JP was broke. Jon did a fret dress, set up and neck seal. I actually like it. I do find that I only had to adjust the neck once since I got it back....about a year now...the others are more often.

I guess it must just stabilize it a little more? Does the neck still maintain its unfinished feel, or does it seem somewhat laquered?
 

jaxadam

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
445
Location
Jacksonville, FL
well yes, thats why i do it!

i dont know, its hard enough just learning to play these guitars. neck relief, truss rod etc just confuses me.

Best thing to do is just crank on it until you like how it feels, and then figure out if you it's flat or if you are a particular person who likes some relief.
 

Warg Master

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
2,392
Location
SLC
Mine are in the basement I have to adjust them every spring and fall to accomidate the temp changes....
 

koogie2k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
5,859
Location
Moyock, NC
I guess it must just stabilize it a little more? Does the neck still maintain its unfinished feel, or does it seem somewhat laquered?

Still has the unfinished feel....tad bit slicker I guess. Definitely not in the laquered department at all....very natural wood feel....:cool:
 

yesandno

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
104
I just straighten the neck till, if I tighten it a hair more, it'll be killing the open string or rattle too much when fretting the first fret. Thats as long as the nut slots are all cut right. (If a slot is cut too low than I fill it and file it )
Then I set my bridge height how I like it. Having a straighter neck should afford better clearance up on the higher frets. After that, any lowering or heightening of the strings over time is mainly due to the neck tightening or loosening and you just give a little truss adjustment.
Don't be afraid to adjust the truss rod...its really no biggie at all.

I keep reading on forums about guys saying..." I can get the strings a 1/64 (or whatever) gap at the twelfth fret with no fret buzz." I'd like to see that. I never met an electric guitar whos strings don't rattle providing it doesn't have really heavy strings and really high action.
With all my electrics (including Balls) I'd have to put a nice bow in the necks and jack the action up a half inch to eliminate fret buzz.
 

koogie2k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
5,859
Location
Moyock, NC
It is 1/32". I know...one of mine is set that way by EBMM's very own Jon of the repair dept. No buzz and super fast. :cool:
 

jongitarz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
6,049
Location
Here
It's amazing how the need varies from state to state. I was also surprised by how sensitive the truss rod is. After one turn (really about an 1/8" of a turn in terms of the full circle), it dropped my action back to about 1/16th. Maybe less. I left it over night and will check it again tonight.

Thanks all for chiming in. I know it's a minute detail but I'm always curious about other's experiences.

Dave

It also will vary from neck to neck. It is wood and it does tend to move. My Sport never seems to need adjusting. Ever. It is not sealed.

Dave is right. The truss rod is great for micro adjustments.
 

jongitarz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
6,049
Location
Here
Rob...that I am not sure of. I have adjusted the truss to raise/lower the board which seems like raising/lowereing the strings. Maybe I am wrong....but it seems that way to me.

Jax...advantage? Well, I have one axe with it done and two without. The one done was the neck that was replaced when my JP was broke. Jon did a fret dress, set up and neck seal. I actually like it. I do find that I only had to adjust the neck once since I got it back....about a year now...the others are more often. Coincidence? Maybe. I like the slick feel of it. This axe is my main player...and I like it. Can't say it is more advantageous over the others though to be honest. :cool:

You can get the slick feel by using 1200 grit sandpaper and the oil and wax treatment. No need to seal it to get it to feel schmoove
 

jongitarz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
6,049
Location
Here
It is 1/32". I know...one of mine is set that way by EBMM's very own Jon of the repair dept. No buzz and super fast. :cool:

There will always be some acoustic buzz when the action is that low, but if you can't hear it through the amp, it's all good :cool:
 

jongitarz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
6,049
Location
Here
I just straighten the neck till, if I tighten it a hair more, it'll be killing the open string or rattle too much when fretting the first fret. Thats as long as the nut slots are all cut right. (If a slot is cut too low than I fill it and file it )
Then I set my bridge height how I like it. Having a straighter neck should afford better clearance up on the higher frets. After that, any lowering or heightening of the strings over time is mainly due to the neck tightening or loosening and you just give a little truss adjustment.
Don't be afraid to adjust the truss rod...its really no biggie at all.

I keep reading on forums about guys saying..." I can get the strings a 1/64 (or whatever) gap at the twelfth fret with no fret buzz." I'd like to see that. I never met an electric guitar whos strings don't rattle providing it doesn't have really heavy strings and really high action.
With all my electrics (including Balls) I'd have to put a nice bow in the necks and jack the action up a half inch to eliminate fret buzz.



Do you own a Music Man?
 

jaxadam

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
445
Location
Jacksonville, FL
You can get the slick feel by using 1200 grit sandpaper and the oil and wax treatment. No need to seal it to get it to feel schmoove

I really like the feel of unfinished necks. I actually just sand down some of mine without doing anything else to them. I don't really know anything about the oil and wax treatment. Seems like it would make the neck slightly stickier? I don't know, I am out of the loop on the neck finishing business. Just curious, that's all.
 

jongitarz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
6,049
Location
Here
If you can't get the action on your guitar to at least 2/32 at the 12th fret you must be doing something wong. If you have buzzing near the headstock to the 5th-7th fret or so, you need more relief in the neck. If it buzzes above the 12th fret, less relief, then raise the saddles. Usually, all that is needed is a truss rod adjustment.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom