Need opions on adjustments

[Iamjacksbass]

Well I finally was able to buy a Music Man Stingray . It everything I hope it was, but I have some question about making truss rod adjustments. Yes I've already checked the site and other trust me I've been all over the place. My action is lower then I like on my bass. My playing style may have changed, because I have a Fender with high action and my Stingray is set low. This adjustment question goes for my Music Man and my Fender as well. Both necks are pretty straight, by that I meen none of them are too backbowed or have too much reliefe. I know how to check for relief, and I know how to make truss rod adjustments. Here my question since Ive always wondered this. Should the truss rod be used only to fix backbows and basses with too much relief? Or can it be used for that gray area. I feel like I'm being awkward, but I'm trying to explain it the best I can basically here what I did. I loosened the truss rod a little, but I didnt notice any difference in the neck. Action seemed a little higher, but not much. I made another one forth turn same thing no big change. I've made a 1/2 turn counter clockwise I haven't notice to much difference. I don't think the truss rods broken, I just dont think Im seeing the difference, because usually with my Fender it was either good, in a back bow, or had too much relief, and a adjustment usually made a noticable difference. Like I said I dont meen to confuse or at this point sound redundant, but once agian is the truss rod used to only fix bad necks, or can it be used for minor adjustments too?

 

[maddog]

the truss rod in any bass guitar is used to set relief. A little (read not very noticeable) relief goes a long way and ensures that the string can vibrate properly when fretting on the 1-6 frets. Also, if you are adjusting the truss-rod, let the neck have time to settle in. When I do a setup I make a couple small adjustments (usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn at most) then let it sit overnight then check it again.

If you want to raise the action, raise the saddles.

 

[Iamjacksbass]

Few....I think ive been using my truss rod right for the last few year which is good, but let me make sure. The way I have been doing it for 3 years now and this is also how I check relief. I fret the bass at the 1st fret using a capo, and at the last fret. I look in between the strings and look for a gap. Now here how I look at it and please tell me if this is right or wrong. 1.) Unless the string is on the frett and does not move at all I assume my neck has relief. Is the correct? 2.) I use a feeler gauge for testing for too much relief. If it is higher then 35 mm on my feeler guage I assume it has too much relief. Is that correct? Now, I've heard alot people say they use the width of a credit card to measure relief. While it close, a credit card does not move under my gap without a distrubing the string, does that meen there too little relief? Or what? Thanks for taking the time to answer these I appriciate it.

 

[Rano Bass]

I'm not shure what you are trying to achieve, if the neck is too concave or too convex, move the trussrod, if you want higher action raise the saddles at the bridge.

 

[Aussie Mark]

I use a feeler gauge for testing for too much relief. If it is higher then 35 mm on my feeler guage I assume it has too much relief.

35mm is a tad too much relief for my liking.

 

[maddog]

35mm is a tad too much relief for my liking.

+1

I usually fret at 1st and 12th and set relief such that I can slip a business card between the string and 6th fret.

 

[Iamjacksbass]

35 mm is my cut off mark for me(youd have to get in my head Im little narrodic). My gap lays at 25 mm on a feeler gauge, or Id say about the width of a buisness card So basically what I'm asking is because that gap is there, as small as it is,there is enough relief in my neck? Correct? Forgive me for being a bit of freak I've been waiting a long time to buy a Stingray, and now I have one, I wanna keep it set up right.

 

[Iamjacksbass]

Also, just another question, while Im here, sorry for the double post, but my Fender is in pretty good condition, but the truss rod it tight to turn either way, I dont really care about it anymore sense its kinda my backup bass, but at what point can you tell if ur truss rods about to snap? I know it supposed ot get tense but with my Fender it tense no matter what way u turn it. So I meen, I suppose before it broke u would be in a decent sized backbow right?

 

[todd4ta]

I think the units you are mentioning are not right. Relief would be in the 1 - 2mm range. 35mm is almost 1.5 inches.

 

[Aussie Mark]

35mm is almost 1.5 inches.

Precisely the point I was making

 

[Iamjacksbass]

WHOA!, I just realized what a moron I must sound like. My bass is at 0.25 mm, and what I use to set a height limit is about 0.35 mm. I'm sorry with the confusion I do have some idea of what Im doing hehe. Now that I've cleared that up, is 0.25 a decent setting relief wise? Also, if someone could help me out with my back bow question that would be great too.

 

[Aussie Mark]

WHOA!, I just realized what a moron I must sound like. My bass is at 0.25 mm, and what I use to set a height limit is about 0.35 mm.

I think you mean 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm

 

[tadawson]

I think the units you are mentioning are not right. Relief would be in the 1 - 2mm range. 35mm is almost 1.5 inches.

Heck, even if I had 1 mm relief on my Bongo, I would be pissed - that's way too high by itself! If he meant .25mm, then I could believe what he is saying - that's about a business card in size . . . .

So, yes, I agree - .25 seems like a nice target, although I have gotten to the point where I just do it by eye . . . . take it about as flat as I can with just detectable relief, and my Bongos shine. .25 seems more typical, and the MM FAQ states the "thickness of a business card" as well, and while I have never actually measured one, .25 seems like it should be close. .35 as a max, well, that depends on what you like - if you play hard, you may need more - as I said above, I have a fairly light touch, and probably go quite a bit below .25 . . . .

2.4 is the factory action height, not relief . . . . . as per the MM FAQ . . . .

- Tim

 

[guitarafondio]

Okey,
When we set the relief of the neck at EB, it's pretty tight. Left index finger on the E string, 3rd fret, right thumb on fret 15 and stretch your right middle finger and tap it on the string. The string space before taping should be just enough to slide a business card between the string and the fret closest to the middle finger. Our standard string height is 3/32 of an inch on the 12th fret. That's how we ship them. The truss rod is to take out any "bow" in the neck and make it as straight as possible. Before we plane and "crown" the frets, the neck is straightened out to insure that the frets are even at the final buffing.
As far as "action". It's a personal preferance. Use the saddles to adjust that. But remember, any adustments you perform, you'll have to re-intonate your bass. Bye the way, you'll have to adjust your pick up height, too.
Me, personally, I like my action low so, when I pop my thumb on the string it thumps!
Thanks for support

 

[bovinehost]

Who are you who are so wise in the ways of set-up in SLO?

Jack

 

[kompressaur]

I've never had to recheck a truss rod adjustment on any MusicMan ever.when you turn it the neck moves instantly and then stays there.maybe in different climes it aint so but its always been that way for me.
Komp

 

[strummer]

Iamjacksbass, you have a good understanding of relief and action. 0,25 mm is ok, so just raise the saddles until you like the string height. Then adjust pickup height and intonate.

 

[Psycho Ward]

Yes, we must know the identity of our new guru, "guitarafondio" so that we may properly show praise.

 

[adouglas]

I set mine similarly to guitarafondio.

I fret at the first fret with my left hand and stick my right elbow on the string so it frets at the last fret. I then tap the string in the middle with my right forefinger. I'm looking for a tiny "click" as the string hits the fret. If there's no click, there isn't enough relief. If I can feel the string move it means there's too much.

It's not as precise as using feeler gauges or even a business card, but it works just fine.

Here's a related question: Whenever I use a business card/feeler gauge/whatever, I can never really tell if I'm shoving it under the string and making it move. For all I know the gap is too small and I can't tell. That's why I went to the fret-and-tap method.

Am I nuts or does anyone else experience this?

 

[azzy_wazzy]

I've decided that I don't trust myself to do anything to my bass...

I followed advice I found on the forum to correct buzzing on the bass and made the fatal mistake of adjusting the saddles - and now it's gone horribly wrong!

So I'm taking it to Dave's to get set up tomorrow, and then I will do nothing to it apart from minute tweaks of the truss rod.

So my advice (yes there was a point! ) is leave the saddles well alone!!!!