- Thread starter kmk42019
- Start date
Colin
Well-known member
which way are you facing when you say clockwise? My advice is to make 1/4 turns at a time, you'll notice a difference fairly quickly.
bdgotoh
Well-known member
Clockwise will make the fingerboard flat or can even give a backwards curve, counter-clockwise allows it to have a forward curve. Whether the strings will lay on the frets depends on how high your bridge saddles are.
im facing the bridge to the neck...
marsguitars
Well-known member
If the strings are laying on the frets... it's too much!
Just do it little by little and you'll soon see the difference
Jazzbassman23
Well-known member
I think it would be much easier to understand if we said to turn the wheel towards the G-string or towards the E-string since cw/ccw depends on your viewing angle.
nashman
Well-known member
I think clockwise means turning the truss wheel toward the G string, counter clockwise means turning the truss wheel toward the E string.
Not to hijack the thread ... I'm also trying to lower my strings but at a point where the truss wheel is fairly difficult to turn ... is it OK to keep going or should the truss wheel be fairly easy to turn. Normally I would think that if it requires some "elbow grease" to turn, I should stop (?)
Not to hijack the thread ... I'm also trying to lower my strings but at a point where the truss wheel is fairly difficult to turn ... is it OK to keep going or should the truss wheel be fairly easy to turn. Normally I would think that if it requires some "elbow grease" to turn, I should stop (?)
oli@bass
Well-known member
Should be fairly easy. At least it is on my 'Rays.
Aussie Mark
Well-known member
If it turns easily at first, but then becomes suddenly hard to turn, it sounds like you've reached the max adjustment. If you force it any further, you might snap the trussrod. Remember, "lowering the strings" using the truss rod means you are tightening the truss rod - in other words, increasing the tension in the truss rod to remove the natural bow of the neck.
On the other hand, if it is hard to turn from the get go, you might need to spray some WD40 in there and let it sit for a while (make sure you wipe off overspray from your finish and hardware immediately).
jlepre
Well-known member
Reviving an old thread:
I just put flats on my SR5 Blue Dawn, and noticed the action has raised a little bit. I would think this was because the string tension was more than the stock strings that came with the bass. I am a newbie to doing my own adjustments, but I wanted to know:
and don't want to screw things up.
I just put flats on my SR5 Blue Dawn, and noticed the action has raised a little bit. I would think this was because the string tension was more than the stock strings that came with the bass. I am a newbie to doing my own adjustments, but I wanted to know:
- Do I need to decrease or increase the stress on the neck? I mean to raise the fretboard I would assume that I need to increase the neck tension right?
- So would that mean I need to turn the wheel to the right? (bass is in the position with the bridge at 6 o'clock and the wheel at 12 o'clock)
- What tool do I use to turn the wheel?
and don't want to screw things up.
mynan
Well-known member
Moving the wheel to the right (with the bass in the position that you described), or toward the G-string, will tighten the truss rod. This will counter the effect of the strings pulling on the neck, moving the nut in the opposite direction that the strings are trying to pull it. So if your action is high, then this is what you want to do...raise the fretboard by lowering the nut...tightening the truss rod.
I use an allen wrench to turn the wheel...as large as the hole will allow...too many stories about screwdrivers breaking. I've never heard of a good allen wrench breaking.
I use an allen wrench to turn the wheel...as large as the hole will allow...too many stories about screwdrivers breaking. I've never heard of a good allen wrench breaking.
I question using the truss rod to adjust string height. Isn't that what the bridge saddles are for?
I use the truss rod to set relief. Then go to string height with the saddles. Fretting at the 1st and 15th fret, I check to see that there is a little relief at the 8th fret (a credit card's thickness or a little less). Once that is established using the truss rod, then I check the string height and adjust with the saddles.
I use the truss rod to set relief. Then go to string height with the saddles. Fretting at the 1st and 15th fret, I check to see that there is a little relief at the 8th fret (a credit card's thickness or a little less). Once that is established using the truss rod, then I check the string height and adjust with the saddles.
mynan
Well-known member
John's situation is due to changing the type of string that he's using, so it's probably due to a change in neck tension. In any case, I always adjust the truss rod before adjusting the bridge height because adjusting the truss rod has a big affect on the string height.
backagain1
Well-known member
I agree. I did this when changing to Flatwounds and it worked fine. I would just state that a little goes a long way when adjusting the truss rod. I like to turn it an eighth or quarter turn and then give it a little time to adjust.
backagain1
