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scottbass71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2003
Messages
850
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Scott, I have them in stock

Thanks Colin I will send you an e-mail.

Also this reminds me about the necks my 94 SR5 looks like it has lacquer on it but my 96 Fretless doesn't
Will I have to give my 94 the tru oil treatment?

thanks

Scott
 

Freddels

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Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Messages
875
Location
Near Wistah
To revive an old thread . . . I just purchased a Sterling with a rosewood board. My question is about the oil/wax steps. I have read that lemon oil is recommended to clean the neck and about once a year to put some tru-oil and then wax on the neck. Do I need to use something to remove the old wax before applying the tru-oil?
 

backagain1

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2004
Messages
391
Location
Indiana
The Fretboard conditioner works great on all types of wood. Woods that don't have pores (maple) etc. need to be wiped down with a dry cloth afterwards. The Rosewood necks have pores and the conditioner evaportates into the pores.

The Fretboard conditioner does not harm the strings at all.

Brian

How about the back of a maple neck. Can (or should) the fretboard conditioner be used on that?

Thanks,

backagain1
 

b-unit

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
528
I have recently re finished the back of my SR4 with the Birchwood casey oil and it was actually a good learning experience as I used way too much. I applied it with a little "sponge on a stick" and let it dry for 24 hours. When I came back to the bass, I almost had a heart attack as the "oil" had dried like a thick laquer on the back of the neck and even some excess had run here and there causing ungly "snot marks".

I carefully sanded the neck using 0000 grit steel wool for what felt like forever to get the bulk of the oil off. In the end, the finish is fantastic but I learned my lesson. Next time I will simply rub some of the oil on with my bare hand and make sure there is no excess!
 

spychocyco

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
800
I have recently re finished the back of my SR4 with the Birchwood casey oil and it was actually a good learning experience as I used way too much. I applied it with a little "sponge on a stick" and let it dry for 24 hours. When I came back to the bass, I almost had a heart attack as the "oil" had dried like a thick laquer on the back of the neck and even some excess had run here and there causing ungly "snot marks".

I'm dreading the day that I have to do my first oil treatment, and this is not helping. :eek:

Actually, the thing I've read here (and I think it's on the FAQ at the site, too) is put the oil on and wipe it off almost immediately -- I believe I read no more than five minutes somewhere. You don't want to let it sit on there too long.
 

Caca de Kick

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2006
Messages
1,363
Location
South Seattle
I haven't done anything with cleaning or treating the maple part of my necks yet. I already have Wonderwipes, but I'm wondering about the Birchwood Caseys...
I have a can of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil, it is in a spray can. I remember when I used it last on my gun, it dries to a thin hard finish.
Is that what I want to achieve on my necks???
 
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