Noob question

[IvanHardy]

hey guys i just bought my first music-man bass at guitar center with the help of my friend. A Sterling Ray34. i would like to know what kind of good strings would go with it. The only Ernie Ball strings i've used is the one that comes in the pink/purple bag. What is the difference between ernie ball strings and other strings?

 

[eyecandy]

HI ivan.. i think the pink one is the Ernie Ball Super Slinky.. 45-100 i think they're nickels.. ..

as for string gauge.. its a matter of personal preference... currently you're using medium lights.. and what do you feel? are you comfortable with it? or you want stiffer strings? or softer ones?
if you play with a pick.. heavier gauge are good and if you're a fingerstyle player who plays lightly and with lots of dynamics, a lighter gauge would be better..

my personal choice are light ones 40-95.. since i don't really like to wrestle with the instrument..
i use the blue set(Extra Slinky)
they're softer less tension and great for slapping..

now for the strings:


A. Roundwounds:
pros: bright and clear
cons: fret wear and finger squeaking noise


types of roundwounds:
a. Stainless steel roundwound strings fall furthest on the bright, "metallic" end of the sound spectrum.
I'd like the dead stainless strings dark and funky IMO..
Marcus Miller uses custom Stainless set.. and is known for his distinct tone..

b. Nickel sounds warmer and has less of the metallic high end treble in the sound than steel strings
when fresh they sound bright but when they're worn in.. they'll mellow out and sound smoother..
Victor Wooten uses nickels..

B. Half Rounds/Pressurewound: these are smoothened roundwounds... these strings sound in between and half rounds and they tend to have higher tension than roundwounds..
pros: versatile, and less finger squeaking noise

C. Flatwounds:
these strings have the highest tension, and are smooth and mellow sounding... these nail the sound of the oldies like the Mo'Town sound.., modern players use them as well, and perfect for jazz, blues ... etc
pros: mellow sweet sound, they last long, no squeaking noise when sliding
cons: heavy gauge flats can cause neck warps, poor slap tone... (works for some but not for most)
James Jamerson and Carol Kaye strung their basses with flats..


the difference is up to you, you should try different sets to feel if it works for you or not..
as for Musicman basses since they're bright sounding.. I'd go with nickels, flats may also work.. but not in the case if you're more on slapping..

 

[IvanHardy]

thanks cause the strings that came with the my bass are clangy when i play them.they make this weird sound. so i think i have to get new ones.i play mostly with pick. what would be good strings for punk?

 

[eyecandy]

for pick players... I'd have to say medium gauge 45-105 stainless steel rounds.. or if you want to go for heavier gauge you may do so but be careful, too much tension may cause necks to warp.. if you play with drop tunings then it should be fine with the gauges above 105

 

[TNT]

Ivan, here's an easy way to look at that question of " what's the difference between EB strings and others"?

Same analogy: What's the difference between a Shakespeare Ugly Stik and a Zebco - everything!!

 

[Big Poppa]

Eyecandy nice report but please edit we only talk about our stuff here and some of your info isnt quite correct

as for clangy...how old was the bass on that you bought? was it a scratch and dent? start with new strings and they will give you a full greq response....from there use the eq on your bass starting flat and your amp flat and dial it into your sound.....

 

[IvanHardy]

i bought the sterling ray 34 brand new. at guitar center. i dont do rop tunings yet i dont know how to tune them like that. i want to learn drop D but oh well. one of the guys from GC called me and asked how th ebass was. i told him about the strings and he said bring it in and he'll help me pick out the right strings.

 

[eyecandy]

Eyecandy nice report but please edit we only talk about our stuff here and some of your info isnt quite correct

as for clangy...how old was the bass on that you bought? was it a scratch and dent? start with new strings and they will give you a full greq response....from there use the eq on your bass starting flat and your amp flat and dial it into your sound.....

done editing... ^_^

 

[eyecandy]

drop D means you tune the E string a whole note down... so like if you're tuning standard.. matching the 5th fret note on the E(4th string) with an Open A (3rd String).. that's standard.. as for drop D.. tune your E string down... and match the 7th fret note on the E string with an open A.. and there you go... Drop D..

As for strings sometimes its best to pick them out for yourself... stainless would be good for punk and picking and for gauges, its up to you.. you can also buy strings individually and make a custom set... example, .110 if you tune to drop D and never go standard.. then mediums on the 3 strings.. 85 65 45.. if i were to custom for a drop D bass.. I'd go for .105, then 70, 60, 40, or just plain mediums they're much safe on standard and low tuning



i forgot to answer one question.. the difference between EB strings and others, tension... feel... and sound...
some strings even with the same gauge can have higher tension than others..

 

[patpark]

Ivan we use Ernie Ball strings gauged from Low E to G string:
100-80-65-45

AKA Super Slinky Bass Strings.

If you have any questions you can always reach me at
patpark AT praxismusical DOT com

Thanks
Pat

 

[IvanHardy]

drop D means you tune the E string a whole note down... so like if you're tuning standard.. matching the 5th fret note on the E(4th string) with an Open A (3rd String).. that's standard.. as for drop D.. tune your E string down... and match the 7th fret note on the E string with an open A.. and there you go... Drop D..

As for strings sometimes its best to pick them out for yourself... stainless would be good for punk and picking and for gauges, its up to you.. you can also buy strings individually and make a custom set... example, .110 if you tune to drop D and never go standard.. then mediums on the 3 strings.. 85 65 45.. if i were to custom for a drop D bass.. I'd go for .105, then 70, 60, 40, or just plain mediums they're much safe on standard and low tuning



i forgot to answer one question.. the difference between EB strings and others, tension... feel... and sound...
some strings even with the same gauge can have higher tension than others..

thank you. i read an easier way how to tune to D. it said i hold the 2nd fret of low E and then tune it regularly. i tried it and it worked. and i dk are there strings that could both be used for standard and drop D tuning?

 

[eyecandy]

if strings that can be used for drop d and standard the safest would be the .105s

 

[IvanHardy]

if strings that can be used for drop d and standard the safest would be the .105s

cool and they don't cause any kind of fret damage or anything correct?

 

[eyecandy]

by safe i mean.. neck warping... heavy gauges will greatly affect the neck.. when using rounds, they damage the frets but you'd have to be playing like semi pro... and normally frets wear out about 7-10 years.. depends on how you play..

 

[IvanHardy]

oh ok. thanks that's really nice that i wouldnt have to worry much about the neck warping. although i do what my friend says and loosen the strings after i'm done playing so the neck doesn't warp. so which strings exactly do you recomend?

 

[eyecandy]

I'll leave it up to you to decide.. a good medium gauge set.. is a great start since its the standard all around gauge.. try different ones.. each have different feel and taste..

 

[Stephen]

Please, guys, just drop the warping neck issue (and yes, that does specifically include loosening the strings after playing!). This really is mostly Interweb-Forums-Voodoo™, as is fret damage for non-professional players.

Ivan, as your bass is brand new, a simple neck set up should be all that's needed to get rid of the clanking noises. These noises are typical for a very low action and/or very hard playing. The first issue can be solved easily by adjusting the action (one quarter turn at the truss rod wheel at a time, with possible adjustment to the bridge - take the bass to your GC tech and let them show you how to do either of these adjustments if you are not comfortable with it). The second issue is a bit more complicated as it usually comes down to right hand technique, which will need more time to adjust than the neck ... shortly put: play with a lighter touch and let the amp do the noise, i.e. turn it up; plus, make sure that you pluck as parallel to the body as possible.

If your strings are truly shot, get another set of super slinkys - these are the strings the bass came with, and indeed the strings this model was developed with. If you feel you want a different tone you should still start from there.

Cheers

 

[eyecandy]

Please, guys, just drop the warping neck issue (and yes, that does specifically include loosening the strings after playing!). This really is mostly Interweb-Forums-Voodoo™, as is fret damage for non-professional players.

Ivan, as your bass is brand new, a simple neck set up should be all that's needed to get rid of the clanking noises. These noises are typical for a very low action and/or very hard playing. The first issue can be solved easily by adjusting the action (one quarter turn at the truss rod wheel at a time, with possible adjustment to the bridge - take the bass to your GC tech and let them show you how to do either of these adjustments if you are not comfortable with it). The second issue is a bit more complicated as it usually comes down to right hand technique, which will need more time to adjust than the neck ... shortly put: play with a lighter touch and let the amp do the noise, i.e. turn it up; plus, make sure that you pluck as parallel to the body as possible.

If your strings are truly shot, get another set of super slinkys - these are the strings the bass came with, and indeed the strings this model was developed with. If you feel you want a different tone you should still start from there.

Cheers

i do have a question though... currently im experiencing rattling noises when i pop the from the 7th fret onward of the D string... the G string does slightly buzz but not as bad as the D string... but the D gets a lot off annoying buzz.. and no matter how high it is, it buzzes like hell

 

[IvanHardy]

Please, guys, just drop the warping neck issue (and yes, that does specifically include loosening the strings after playing!). This really is mostly Interweb-Forums-Voodoo™, as is fret damage for non-professional players.

Ivan, as your bass is brand new, a simple neck set up should be all that's needed to get rid of the clanking noises. These noises are typical for a very low action and/or very hard playing. The first issue can be solved easily by adjusting the action (one quarter turn at the truss rod wheel at a time, with possible adjustment to the bridge - take the bass to your GC tech and let them show you how to do either of these adjustments if you are not comfortable with it). The second issue is a bit more complicated as it usually comes down to right hand technique, which will need more time to adjust than the neck ... shortly put: play with a lighter touch and let the amp do the noise, i.e. turn it up; plus, make sure that you pluck as parallel to the body as possible.

If your strings are truly shot, get another set of super slinkys - these are the strings the bass came with, and indeed the strings this model was developed with. If you feel you want a different tone you should still start from there.

Cheers

ok thank you. i will take it to a GC tech. al this info is really helpful thank you so much. i'll try playing a lighter touch. my amp is having a bit of a problem though it sounds fuzzy sometimes when i play and this like weird sound comes out like if something was cracking inside.

 

[eyecandy]

good luck dude..