Question MM preamp boost

[Gravesend Black]

Hi guys!
It's a shame for me to ask such a noob questions while being here for a year. But I did not find exact answer by using the search function. Maybe I'm not a good searcher but I hope you will not scold me very hard!

So the Q is about bass/mid/treble knobs. Is it cut/boost or boost only opportunity? Where is "no boost" point - 6 o'clock or 12?

 

[keko]

Center click knob position = flat!

Clockwise = boost, counterclockwise = cut!

 

[Gravesend Black]

Center click knob position = flat!

Clockwise = boost, counterclockwise = cut!

Thx, Keko! How about cut/boost range in %? If center click is 0% how much X% it cuts or boosts?

 

[keko]

Thx, Keko! How about cut/boost range in %? If center click is 0% how much X% it cuts or boosts?

I really don't have that information for the SR5, ...only what I've heard for reflex and Bongo pre-amp is +-18 dB boost/cut, but that's just "forum talk", ...so please ask Customer Service for exact info!

 

[Golem]

`

+/- 18db is a range few active basses offer. Acoarst the
Boingo and the newer models that share its electronics
are part of a rare breed.

OTOH, StingRay/Sterling basses are rather Olde Skool
active basses [the SR being the 1st production bass to
offer active EQ]. On that bassis, it's safe to figger about
+/- 12db for the older designs, that being a widespread
industry norm. Might be as much as 15db on the bass
channel of the 3-band.

As to cut-only vs cut-boost, anything with a center click
would be c/b but the 2-band MIGHT be a mix of both a
boost-only bass with a cut-boost treble. Some early
designs were like that, and the MM 2-band is an early
design [altho there have been some revisions to it].

Also, consider that even a fully cut/boost system isn't
really "Flat" at the center clicks. Every EQ-pre has its
native contour, and all you can say about the center
clicks is that they offer that contour straight up. BUT !
But, if the contour is [for example] mid scooped, then
either of two scenarios occur: 1. the Mids knob is "flat"
somewhere on the boost side of center, OR 2. the Low
and High knobs are already boosted at center click [or
possibly both "1." and "2." are in effect].

"Mid Scoop" is a not uncommon contour but there are
others, some being bass-emphasizing. So the idea of
defining controls as boost-only, boost/cut or cut-only
[such as is the nature of passive 2-band EQs] is not
a reliable guide to dialing up an appropriate tone. In
every case, "the ears have it".

 

[Gravesend Black]

`

+/- 18db is a range few active basses offer. Acoarst the
Boingo and the newer models that share its electronics
are part of a rare breed.

OTOH, StingRay/Sterling basses are rather Olde Skool
active basses [the SR being the 1st production bass to
offer active EQ]. On that bassis, it's safe to figger about
+/- 12db for the older designs, that being a widespread
industry norm. Might be as mush as 15db on the bass
channel of the 3-band.

As to cut-only vs cut-boost, anything with a center click
would be c/b but the 2-band MIGHT be a mix of both a
boost-only bass with a cut-boost treble. Some early
designs were like that, and the MM 2-band is an early
design [altho there have been some revisions to it].

Also, consider that even a fully cut/boost system isn't
really "Flat" at the center clicks. Every EQ-pre has its
native contour, and all you can say about the center
clicks is that they offer that contour straight up. BUT !
But, if the contour is [for example] mid scooped, then
either of two scenarios occur: 1. the Mids knob is "flat"
somewhere on the boost side of center, OR 2. the Low
and High knobs are already boosted at center click [or
possibly both "1." and "2." are in effect].

"Mid Scoop" is a not uncommon contour but there are
others, some being bass-emphasizing. So the idea of
defining controls as boost-only, boost/cut or cut-only
[such as is the nature of passive 2-band EQs] is not
a reliable guide to dialing up an appropriate tone. In
every case, "the ears have it".

That was very informative. Thanks.

 

[bdgotoh]

From the FAQ section of the Music Man website:

How does the 3-Band EQ function on your basses?

The 3-Band Bass EQ uses a standard bandaxal circuit centered approximately 500 Hz. The frequency slope is 6 db per octave.

With the bass control in max position, the maximum output will occur at 40 Hz and drop at 6 db per octave above 40 hz. Maximum treble response drops at 6 db per octave at frequencies below approximately 12 kHz. Midrange is centered approximately 500 Hz.

Control settings are interactive, therefore 6 db per octave only occurs when one control is in the maximum position and the two remaining controls are set to minimum.

 

[Golem]

`

"Interactive" ​

`

 

[tbonesullivan]

Just a quick extra note: the EBMM Classic series lack the center detent, but are still the same "boost/cut". The detent just makes it easier to find the point where it is neither boosting or cutting.

The reason why some companies are going to 18V preamps is purely so that they can get more boost/cut out of their preamps.

Honestly, I've got one bass with 18V preamp, and all the rest have 9 v. I haven't found anything earth shockingly useful about having a bigger range to boost, though that is entirely dependent upon the setup of the preamp.

 

[Golem]

...........
The reason why some companies are going to 18V preamps is
purely so that they can get more boost/cut out of their preamps.

Honestly, I've got one bass with 18V preamp, and all the rest
have 9 v. I haven't found anything earth shockingly useful about
having a bigger range to boost, though that is entirely dependent
upon the setup of the preamp.

Begking to differ, both EBMMwise and otherwise. In the EBMM
camp "Exhibit A" is certainly the 18v monster under the hood of
the Boingo. In the "other" camp one example is the 18v P-Delux
[USA]. I have stated previously [here and elsewhere] that the
general overall feel of this ax combined with its Bazzilla EQ-pre
makes it THE ax for MM players who just might need a F3nder
bass [to be allowed on certain stages, etc].

Full disclosure: I do have a P-Dlx USA and I happen to be sorta
open minded about "who" can join my little MM herd/flock. I'm
not unaware that some are nuclear family and some are Kissin
Kuzzins who fit right in, but I perzonilly consider my L2000 and
L2500, and my P-Dlx to be members of my MM flock, just as I'd
felt about my early-type MM Sabre [another NON-EB member-
in-good-standing].

Anywho, I find 18v makes a definite difference. Aside from the
wider EQ range, it also seems to be immune to the horrible AC
wiring in my Broke Down Mansion, and 18v tends to resist the
hum of neon and fluorescent lights somewhat better.

Acoarst, YMMV.