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stuartv

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Thanks, benj. That answers my first question (in my last post).

Tru-Oil on the back of the neck helps protect the wood, right? So, if I want to do that to the fret board, will it hurt anything (e.g. the dot markers or 2008LE inlay)? I wouldn't want it to discolor the markers or inlay or, even worse, cause the inlay to peel up.
 

ozzyrules

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I've never used it on the fretboard, but I would assume that it would only help "treat" the wood with some lubrication and prevent drying. That, however is only an assumption. I have a Super Sport that required a ton of maintenance. I scrubbed the fretboard with a toothbrush and Murphy's oil soap. I lubed it good with wonder wipes and that did the trick.
 

DrKev

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Thanks banjoplayer! Very helpful!

Stuartv, I doubt that you'll find a direct answer to your question about the BFR inlay. From what I've been reading online in the last half hour, a lot of people say tru-oil is safe to use over bindings, even over decals (much to my surprise). So I would be surprised if it's not OK.

Of course we all missed the standard forum refrain - call Customer Service and ask them! You can call toll free in the US and Canada.
 

stuartv

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I emailed CS and here is the response from Jacob Rocha:

Murphy's Oil Soap is great for cleaning your neck and fretboard, and should be diluted 3:1 with water when using.

Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner works great for either maple or rosewood fretboards. Otherwise, a high-grade orange oil can work on either maple or rosewood fretboards. A high-grade lemon oil can be used on rosewood fretboards, but is not advisable for use on maple fretboards.

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil and Gunstock Wax is what we use to condition the back of the neck on both maple and rosewood necks. Apply the oil, then the wax, using just enough to cover the entire neck, wiping off excess amounts with a paper towel or clean rag after applying. This only needs to be done once or twice per year, depending on the humidity/ temperature in your area.

The oil and wax should be fin to use on your fretboard, but make sure you don't apply too much wax- it can make the fretboard a bit "gummy" if you do. The combo shouldn't damage the inlay either.
 

stuartv

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I have to say I'm pretty surprised at the statement to use orange oil on a maple board and that lemon oil is "not advisable for use on maple fretboards."
 

banjoplayer

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I have to say I'm pretty surprised at the statement to use orange oil on a maple board and that lemon oil is "not advisable for use on maple fretboards."

This often confuses people (including me for a long time).

I guess the reason maybe: normally you use Lemon Oil on Rosewood fretboards as they are not laquered (even if the Maple-neck is). Maple Fretboards usually (from most brands - not EBMM) ARE laquered. So I think it´s more about the fact that they are laquered and not that they are Maple. Generally it´s nothing wrong with Maple and Lemon Oil unless the Maple is laquered.

- That´s my GUESS, like to hear a few other opinions -

Lemon Oil is very fine to get the old grime out of your unfinished Maple Fretboard.
 
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DrKev

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Lemon oil is slightly corrosive, and risks damaging frets, glue, and finish. On an unfinished fretboard it could seep under the frets and could cause problems. C.F. Martin & Co also advises against using lemon oils on their acoustic guitars for the same reason.

This is why Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes contain orange oil - less corrosive and does a great job cleaning.
 

Brucifer85

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Jan 19, 2017
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Reviving this thread.

As a someone new to Music Man guitars I am slightly confused.

I see a lot of people say they use Tru Oil and Wax on their guitars necks but when I watched the EBMM video the guy doesn't use Tru Oil.

He used Murphys Oil Soap first, is this the same as Tru Oil? Then he sands and uses Gunstock Wax. No mention of Tru oil.

So is Tru Oil necessary or can you just sand and use wax?

Thanks.
 

stuartv

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Yeah, what DrKev said.

MOS is for cleaning. If it just needs light cleaning, then I just do MOS.

If the back of the neck needs more deep cleaning, then MOS, light sanding, another cleaning with MOS, then I put on some Tru-Oil.

I used the Gunstock Wax once and didn't like it. I think the wax imparts a slightly tacky finish that, to ME, is the thing specifically being avoided by having an oil finish. So, I don't use it any more. Just MOS and sometimes Tru-Oil, and that's it.

The wax does wear off fairly quickly, so it's no big deal to put it on. If you find you don't like it, it'll go away before long and then you know...
 
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Brucifer85

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Yeah, what DrKey said.

MOS is for cleaning. If it just needs light cleaning, then I just do MOS.

If the back of the neck needs more deep cleaning, then MOS, light sanding, another cleaning with MOS, then I put on some Tru-Oil.

I used the Gunstock Wax once and didn't like it. I think the wax imparts a slightly tacky finish that, to ME, is the thing specifically being avoided by having an oil finish. So, I don't use it any more. Just MOS and sometimes Tru-Oil, and that's it.

The wax does wear off fairly quickly, so it's no big deal to put it on. If you find you don't like it, it'll go away before long and then you know...

We dont have Murphys in my country (South Africa) so what kinda alternative products could I use?

What kinda soap is MOS and what are its other uses so I can try link it to something similar here.

Or could one just use like the Dunlop polish as a substitute?

Thanks.
 

stuartv

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MOS is used to clean and protect wood. Like furniture.

Look for something with orange oil in it that is made for cleaning and protecting wood furniture.
 

banjoplayer

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Don´t have oil soap here. I clean with some 0000 steel wool.
Then oil & wax from birchwood casey´s. I have to say the wax makes the difference. after oiling my necks are always a little sticky. after waxing they are perfect!
 

TripHazard

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Made no difference to mine in terms of feel. Might be different if you started from a neck that had received no treatment of any kind at all - say if you bought an unfinished neck from somewhere like warmoth
 

Spudmurphy

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... I think differently. I'm reluctant to use the wax - seemed to make the neck feel different from the "factory finish". Just using the oil seemed (to me) to be more "factory".
Heck I don't know why that should be as quite clearly the factory uses both.
Too much used I guess! When I do use the wax, I use a blob the size of a gnats gonad - seems ok then :)
 
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