Depends what kind of super-switch you have (it changed in 2011). Is it the original stock switch? If it is, email CS with your serial number and they'll send you the appropriate diagram. Or, email a photo of your switch and I'll send you one.
Careful with terms - I think what you are referring to as a blender pot is really just a no-load pot. Makes things a little brighter when then pot is on 10 compared to a regular pot by effectively removing the tone pot from the circuit. Personally, I don't like the effect.
But I've always know the term 'blender pot' to refer to a circuit mod where the capacitor is removed and the tone pot is rewired as an independent volume control to one of the pickups (usually the neck or bridge pickup), adding that pickup to whatever combination is chosen on the selector switch. Can give the bridge-neck and bridge-middle-neck combinations to a traditional strat wiring. In such cases a no-load pot is often preferred, which I guess is why some manufacturers refer to no-load pot as blender pots.
Despite what many people/stores/interwebs might tell you the only thing that counts for capacitors is the value of the capacitance. The construction (i.e. PIO vs Ceramic vs mylar vs poly) makes absolutely no difference to tone whatsoever. Buy whatever you are willing to spend the money, that's cool, but even the cheapest cap will do a fine job and you will not be able to hear any difference between it any any other cap of the same value.