79 Stingray Neck Setup

[79stingray]

I am the very happy owner of a near pristine 79 Stingray (pre-EB). The neck was removed from the guitar to verify authenticity and manufacture dates and my question is...

Does anyone know the exact systematic procedure for adjusting the neck?

Do you adjust the 'neck angle set screw' with the strings on or off?

When do you adjust the truss rod, and how do you know when you get it 'right'?

Now I know there are probably a thousand different opinions on what is 'right', but there has to be a base-line standard and proper procedure as would be recommended by the manufacturer or expert bass tech.

Thank you in advance.

 

[todd4ta]

Here's my quick and dirty on a 3-bolt neck w/tilt screw

1. I put the neck on and tighten all 3 screws snug but not too tight. There will be at least a couple of times to loosen and tighten again.

2. Put the strings back on and bring them up to correct tension (tune the bass). After tuning, loosen all 3 neck bolts a few turns then tighten them back up. This is to make sure the neck is snug in the neck pocket, the tension of the strings will pull it in. You may want to verify that the neck is centered to the strings. The two screws towards the headstock will most likely stay tightened, the single screw will be loosened again later if you need to adjust the tilt screw.

3. Tune the strings back up. Check the relief on the neck. My quick way is to fret the A string with my right elbow down at the base of the neck, and fret the same string on the first fret with my left hand. I use my right hand to check the height off the fret at around the 9th fret - I like relief about the thickness of a matchbook cover. There are some other FAQs on here for setup which include more details on getting the relief/trussrod adjustment set.

4. After the relief is set, adjust the action (bridge saddle height) to your preference. Again, other info is posted here for basic setup. My action is set for the E-string at 3/32" down to the G-string at 1/16" (measured with the strings non fretted, from the bottom of the string to the top of the last fret).

5. The limiting factor for me is usually the G-string height. With the older bridge saddles, I can't get the G-string down low enough - even with the saddle all the way down. Then I shim the neck (or use the neck tilt screw) to bring the neck up enough to get the G-string action where I like it. For the tilt screw, loosen the single neck bolt (furthest from the headstock), then turn the tilt screw clockwise to adjust it as needed (I watch the side of the neck heel against the body to see height change). After adjusting the tilt, tighten all 3 neck bolts snug (dont' overtighten - use your judgement).

I always take the time to check the string tuning after every adjustment because the string tension will affect the relief and action.

6. Check the G-string action, you may have to go back once or twice on the neck tilt/shim to get it just right. Once that's done, retune and finish setting the action for all four strings.

7. Last step is to set the intonation and adjust the pickup height.

 

[strummer]

http://www.ernieball.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=942&highlight=setup

 

[radiotrib]

I'm confused .. I've owned an '80 Stingray since it was new (bought '82) and dont even know what a "neck angle set screw" is .. in fact, I can't ever rembmer seeinganything that looked like an adjustment except for the truss rod bullet at the headstock .. PLEEEZ .. enlighten me further ...

Ta,

K4

## EDIT ## .. ther are, of course, those string adjusting thingies up at the sharp end ... but I don't really count those

 

[todd4ta]

I'm confused .. I've owned an '80 Stingray since it was new (bought '82) and dont even know what a "neck angle set screw" is .. in fact, I can't ever rembmer seeinganything that looked like an adjustment except for the truss rod bullet at the headstock .. PLEEEZ .. enlighten me further ...

Ta,

K4

## EDIT ## .. ther are, of course, those string adjusting thingies up at the sharp end ... but I don't really count those

On the 3-bolt necks, there is an additional small hole in the neckplate. That opening is provided to insert an allen wrench and turn the screw that lies beneath. It is a screw that can adjust the tilt of the neck, much the same as a shim would do. I believe it takes a 3/32" allen wrench.

 

[radiotrib]

Hey thanks for that .. I always wondered what that hole was for ... (drip hole for when the guitar starts sweating under the strain perhaps ?? Breather ?? Truss rod lubrication point ? .. arrgh !! ) so I never bothered about it ...

Now you say it, I seem to remember seeing a kinda cylindrical steel insert in the neck heel when I parted it all about a year ago. That must be the thing .. Time for me to open it up and take another peek .. you may just have solved a small but annoying question for me ) ...

Ahaaa .. no need to open it up - I found the old pikkies of it opened and there it is ... (viewed from the inside)

Thanx

K4

P.S. Ain't that wierd .. now I look again I see there's that strange pattern in the varnish inside the body pocket. It looks just like there's been a 4 hole attachment of some description in there, but not screwed in place. I wonder if the spray booth hangers are/were universal for all gutars and basses back in 1980 ... or something

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>It looks just like there's been a 4 hole attachment of some description in there, but not screwed in place.

That's from the tool thingie that hold the body while it's being sprayed.

Jon may know the tech name for it.

A "Paddle" or something like that?

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Pre-EB Basses also came with a little manual attached to the necks:

MINI HANG-TAG MANUAL

 

[radiotrib]

You, my friend, are abso-bloody-lutely indispensible !!

 

[strummer]

Pre-EB Basses also came with a little manual attached to the necks:

MINI HANG-TAG MANUAL

Taht is just too neat