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ngjenkins

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Aug 8, 2024
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Missoula, MT
Hello,
First time posting. Honestly because it's the first time I've ever had issues with a Music Man guitar. I recently purchased a Yucatan Blue Axis with double locking trem and... there are some issues.

Mainly, with the bridge set level and the neck flat (too flat in my opinion) the action is WAY TOO HIGH! Like, borderline unplayable.

Is it true that the only way to really adjust beyond this is shimming the neck? Or is this something I'm missing.

It's a 2023 that I bought used (although it appears to be mint condition) off Reverb so I can't take it back to EBMM. I'm just trying to figure this out and I've seen a few other people complain about this. But, I simply can't believe the action on a $3k guitar is only adjustable by shimming the neck? I've owned 3 other EBMM guitars and they've all worked extremely well and been relatively easy to set up.

Anywho, hello to everyone. Hope you're all doing great :)
 

tbonesullivan

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It's a decked non-recessed floyd, so there really is no way to lower the action except for using a shim. If you wanted to raise it, you could shim the saddles, but that won't work in this case. This is the reason why Fender has the "micro-tilt" adjustment in most of their neck pockets. There really isn't a way to predict how wood will compress when the bolt on neck joint is tightened, so you need shims for that, as even with adjustable saddles, there is only so much adjustment room. I have had to change the shims on one bass and one guitar, both from the brown .010" shim to the pink .015" shim, which allowed me to get the action where I want it.
 

ngjenkins

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Missoula, MT
It's a decked non-recessed floyd, so there really is no way to lower the action except for using a shim. If you wanted to raise it, you could shim the saddles, but that won't work in this case. This is the reason why Fender has the "micro-tilt" adjustment in most of their neck pockets. There really isn't a way to predict how wood will compress when the bolt on neck joint is tightened, so you need shims for that, as even with adjustable saddles, there is only so much adjustment room. I have had to change the shims on one bass and one guitar, both from the brown .010" shim to the pink .015" shim, which allowed me to get the action where I want it.
Appreciate the reply.

Okay, guess I'm borked then. Now that I have it and KNOW it needs to be shimmed, I can't put it back up for sale so I guess I'll... try to do it myself??? This should be fun (sarcasm). In 30+ years of playing I don't think I've ever even pulled a neck off a guitar. WHEE!

Is it just because the wood probably shrank since it left the factory? Because I can't see this leaving the factory like this.
 

tbonesullivan

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Appreciate the reply.

Okay, guess I'm borked then. Now that I have it and KNOW it needs to be shimmed, I can't put it back up for sale so I guess I'll... try to do it myself??? This should be fun (sarcasm). In 30+ years of playing I don't think I've ever even pulled a neck off a guitar. WHEE!

Is it just because the wood probably shrank since it left the factory? Because I can't see this leaving the factory like this.

Wood continues to change and compress after it leaves the factory, and moisture and temperature also can play a role. I have done it and it is not really hard to do, though a lot of it depends on whether the neck pocket is tight or loose.

Now, can you possibly take a picture of the bridge from the side and post it? It is possible that someone messed with the bridge studs, which should be screwed all the way in, so that they are raised up a bit. The tremolo plate should be pretty much flat against the body for its entire length.
 

Vadauco

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Feb 18, 2016
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In 30+ years of playing I don't think I've ever even pulled a neck off a guitar. WHEE!

It's a really, really easy fix. I've done that to several guitars of mine through the years, in order to increase playing comfort.

Actually, that's the reason I prefer set necks instead of glued necks.
 

GoKart Mozart

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Nov 21, 2002
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Florence/Muscle Shoals, AL
Appreciate the reply.

Okay, guess I'm borked then. Now that I have it and KNOW it needs to be shimmed, I can't put it back up for sale so I guess I'll... try to do it myself??? This should be fun (sarcasm). In 30+ years of playing I don't think I've ever even pulled a neck off a guitar. WHEE!

Is it just because the wood probably shrank since it left the factory? Because I can't see this leaving the factory like this.

A few pics and some actual measurements of the action/neck relief would probably help give everyone a better frame of reference; "WAY TOO HIGH" doesn't help much.
 

tbonesullivan

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A few pics and some actual measurements of the action/neck relief would probably help give everyone a better frame of reference; "WAY TOO HIGH" doesn't help much.
This is also true. I love when I hear people claiming they want a 0.8mm, which is 2/64 or so.
 

ngjenkins

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Missoula, MT
No man, don't sell it. I know it might feel intimidating at first, but you got this. I made a video showing how to do this awhile back. I hope this helps.

I did it!

The funny part is that there was ALREADY a shim in there haha.

So I did a temp shim to just see if this works and it seems like it did. So now I'm going to order the actual EBMM shims.

As far as measurements, I honestly haven't gotten good at measuring (for a couple reasons) and usually just do feel balanced with buzz to figure it out. I have a couple rulers, but I did attach a picture of the bridge. That's as low as it will go without kicking forward. Feels right.

I'll see if I can get some measurements. WISH ME LUCK!

IMG_6141.JPG
 

Astrofreq

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Also, only check for fret buzz through an amp. Our ears may hear something acoustically that won't go come through the pickups.
 

tbonesullivan

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I did it!

The funny part is that there was ALREADY a shim in there haha.

So I did a temp shim to just see if this works and it seems like it did. So now I'm going to order the actual EBMM shims.

As far as measurements, I honestly haven't gotten good at measuring (for a couple reasons) and usually just do feel balanced with buzz to figure it out. I have a couple rulers, but I did attach a picture of the bridge. That's as low as it will go without kicking forward. Feels right.

I'll see if I can get some measurements. WISH ME LUCK!

View attachment 44149
Is that bridge floating? That definitely has the studs a bit farther out of the body than they should be. The bridge should be resting against the body at the rear, and like 0.1mm above at the front. That might be why the action is so high.
 

ngjenkins

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Missoula, MT
Is that bridge floating? That definitely has the studs a bit farther out of the body than they should be. The bridge should be resting against the body at the rear, and like 0.1mm above at the front. That might be why the action is so high.
It's definitely NOT floating. There is no movement if I try to lift it. But, that's as low as it will go and remain level. If I tighten the pegs any further, only the front of the bridge goes lower. The back stays up. So I end up getting a slant.
 

GoKart Mozart

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Is that bridge floating? That definitely has the studs a bit farther out of the body than they should be. The bridge should be resting against the body at the rear, and like 0.1mm above at the front. That might be why the action is so high.

Looks about right to me; that gap at the rear is probably just where the fine tuner tension plate is causing it to sit off the body.
 

tbonesullivan

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It's definitely NOT floating. There is no movement if I try to lift it. But, that's as low as it will go and remain level. If I tighten the pegs any further, only the front of the bridge goes lower. The back stays up. So I end up getting a slant.

Looks about right to me; that gap at the rear is probably just where the fine tuner tension plate is causing it to sit off the body.

This is how mine came from the factory. It is sloped a bit forward, and rests on the fine tuner tension plate at the back. It can definitely be slightly slanted without any binding issues. You definitely want it as low as it will go, and in the picture you posted above, it looks slanted slightly down at the back.

axisfloyd.jpg
 

GoKart Mozart

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This is how mine came from the factory. It is sloped a bit forward, and rests on the fine tuner tension plate at the back. It can definitely be slightly slanted without any binding issues. You definitely want it as low as it will go, and in the picture you posted above, it looks slanted slightly down at the back.

Interesting. Just realized based on your pics that the newer MM-branded trem has a lot different studs and a thicker bridge plate than the old Gotoh on my '96 Axis. Probably a different fine tuner tension plate as well.

If I tried cranking down the studs any further, it would just cause the front of the bridge plate to drop; the back can't go down any further due to the fine tuner tension plate already being in contact with the body.

aF3nbhp.jpg
 
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tbonesullivan

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Another tip I should definitely mention: remember to lubricate your tremolo contact points. I use Dumonde Tech Pro-X Regular Bicycle Chain Lubricant on all of my trem pivots. It's what Anderson guitar works recommends.
 

ngjenkins

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Aug 8, 2024
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Missoula, MT
Okay, I think the shim did the trick PLUS I switched to 9s. I'm still not wildly enthusiastic about it but i'm going to give it some time.

I've got a set coming up in Eb tuning and I hate doing a half step down with 9s. So we'll see if works. I'm also not adapting to the whole "no tone" control yet but I think that's just going to be about me making sure my amp is properly dialed in.

Thanks for all of your insights everyone! I appreciate it.
 

yngvai

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Jan 17, 2014
Messages
14
How is the nut height on yours? I have two Axis guitars that I bought new, a 2020 trans amber and 2023 BFR trans purple. The nuts were really high for my preference. I had to shim the necks on both of them to get the action where I wanted it.
 
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