Jules
Well-known member
On an amp with two inputs, one normal and one padded; what is the risk of using the normal input with an active bass? It's a much hotter signal, but is there a change of burning up the input?
Off Topic Amp inputs and an active bass...
- Thread starter Jules
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jlepre
Well-known member
The normal input is fine to use with EBMM basses. I actually never use the ACTIVE input as it has a resistor that just lessens the signal, and I don't like to choke my sound. Just watch your volume, and EQ levels.
Jules
Well-known member
I have the bass volume wide open, and treble and mid are flat (no boost or cut) and the bass is slightly boosted. I did get the three year replacement on the amp, so don't mind seeing what she's got! 
EDIT: The amp EQ's are flat, also.
EDIT: The amp EQ's are flat, also.
Last edited:
keko
Well-known member
I have the bass volume wide open, and treble and mid are flat (no boost or cut) and the bass is slightly boosted. I did get the three year replacement on the amp, so don't mind seeing what she's got!
EDIT: The amp EQ's are flat, also.
In that case You can easily use regular direct non-active input, ...just avoid to rise a Gain knob on the amp to high!
That's how I do, ...like John said, technically is better to avoid active channel resistor if there's no need for that (if signal from bass is not too high)!
Anyway, ...if any distorted sound comes out from the loudspeaker, ...switch back to active input!
tbonesullivan
Well-known member
On most amps it's just a less sensitive input so you can avoid clipping the input stage. If it's a solid state pre, sometimes this clipping can be very harsh sounding, almost like a dirty pot and static combined.
It depends on how much you boost your signal with the active pre. If you run everything full out, you may start clipping the pre, in which case you should use the active or low impedance input.
G&L basses, even the passive SB-2, have a massive output, so they almost always need to be in the active input.
It depends on how much you boost your signal with the active pre. If you run everything full out, you may start clipping the pre, in which case you should use the active or low impedance input.
G&L basses, even the passive SB-2, have a massive output, so they almost always need to be in the active input.
Freddels
Well-known member
I usually use the normal input unless I find I'm slamming the preamp on the amp. If that happens, I can either back off the volume on the bass, lower the gain on the amp preamp, or switch to the padded input. If you're hitting the preamp hard on the amp, you'll hear it and will want to adjust something b/c it usually doesn't sound too good.
Jules
Well-known member
The amp is sounding awesome and I am not experiencing any adverse sounds. I just wanted to be sure that I was causing some sort of damage that I didn't know about.
jlepre
Well-known member
Works every time 
drTStingray
Well-known member
Works every time
Unless you're playing a Bongo - in my experience the Bongo makes my Ashdown VU meter stay on the end stop permanently unless in the active input.
Stingray is fine in the passive unless you play very hard - the Ray signal can get much much hotter if you play hard. I just turn the input volume down a little in that situation. My LM3 doesn't even have an active/passive input - just a clip light.
